(Part 2)
Fachinetti's Valentino was exquisite. Her color palette was feminine, those floral prints seemed perfect for the house, and I personally loved the embroidery on the shoulders of the jackets. I can't see why any executives would have a problem with her work, because it is what Valentino should be today. I was never a big fan of Valentino himself, but all the name means to me is red dresses, red carpets, and Hollywood glamour. Wouldn't it be nice if the house could add something (or someone, namely Fachinetti) with a little more vision into the mix.
Marc Jacobs seemed to hit the ball out of the park with his namesake collection, and I have to agree with a lot of the reviewers. Not much more to say than wonderful clothes and wonderful styling. Jacobs' work at Louis Vuitton, however, was pretty, and I think most seasons I'd be happy with it, but somehow it didn't seem right this time. Not on the pulse. It skewed young, and it doesn't fit in with the tone of other collections.
I didn't think Chloé was all that bad. Yes, the scalloping was bad. It was actually really bad. But there were some easy, feminine clothes that are passable in Hannah MacGibbon's Chloé. I'm not very familiar with Phoebe Philo's work at the house, but I know the keywords then were pretty similar.
For once, Christopher Kane was able to pull off something better than I thought possible. The scallops I hated at Chloé were done exponentially better by Kane, and while it was ridiculous that every single item had to have them, a few of the cocktail dresses were exceptional.
Nina Ricci seemed to have the same problems as Chloé and Kane. Theyskens apparently really likes the short-in-front, long-in-back look. But did he need to show nearly every model with that same silhouette? In some dresses, particularly a liberty print number, it was ethereal, but after seeing it dozens of times, it gets rather repetitive.
A few collections were downright beautiful, but I don't have much to say after that, as it has all been said before by now.
Rodarte had dresses with the most amazing craftsmanship, but in the end we've seen them all before.
Alberta Ferretti's Grecian goddess meets Paul Poiret meets old Hollywood glamour was dazzling and perfect for the red carpet; I can't seem to get a particular floor length fringed dress out of my mind.
Ann Demeulemeester showed some wonderful clothes, but what struck me most was the choice in colors. For a woman who has so much experience with black and white, it strikes me as strange that she can consistently pick out the freshest colors, like this season's coral and sand.
I didn't connect with Jil Sander as much as I thought I would after seeing that amazing fringe, but the whole show was beautiful and a real success for Simons.
I actually liked Prada immediately this season. An older, more conservative client was refreshing to see from the house with more quirks than good ideas.
Balenciaga was incredible. I was disappointed when I heard that the finale dresses were all colorless, but the whole aura of the collection blew me away.
My relationship with Fendi this season got off to a rocky start after seeing the hair that can only be described as 'unique.' After sleeping on it for more than a few nights, I was able to see such an interesting silhouette with the full skirted dresses over the pencil skirts. as he did at Chanel with the two tone tights, Lagerfeld was able to channel the transparency trend in a new way.
At Karl Lagerfeld, I was pleasantly surprised by such a relevant collection. Every look is just the right blend of wearable and futuristic. And that purse with Karl's mug is aweome, as are the shirt cuff bracelets and those intriguing belts.
Burberry Prorsum was surprising as well. After hating it as recently as this year's resort collection, I have to say that Bailey's ideas look kind of perfect for the Burberry customer. The dip dyes, the bucket hats, and the check logo all work together quite harmoniously.
Thakoon's prints were the hightlight of my New York fashion week. I think I would reupholster my living room and car if the company should ever go into interior design.
, Dires Van Noten, Juun J
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, Marios Schwab, Proenza Schouler
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