Collections of S/S 2013

[softgrey]

s/s 13 is the season of the moo moo...

 

[Daydreamer70]

I can't remember a season when so many designers all seemed to be on the same page...and such a boring page at that. I prefer it when there are so many different trends and propositions going around, that I'm not even sure which ones will be picked up, and over-hyped by the magazines. But this time, from the beginning of NYC straight through to Paris, it was as if I could already see every single editorial that will be published by the major publications next spring....there will be stripes! stripes! stripes!, graphics! graphics! graphics! 60's MOD!!! ( again? ), snakeskin! the"NEW"Minimalism, and some stories about sheers and geometric lace...guess I will save a lot of money not buying any magazines though. It will be interesting to see if they actually try and push all those dark wintery clothes on the general public, but even if they do, it's not likely to work.

 

[thejarc]

I would say S/S 13 was pretty much an average spring season. It was pretty boring but usually I find spring collections a lot more boring than summer collection.

A few key people delivered as always (Yohji, Christopher Kane, Haider)

Then there was a bunch of designers with good, solid collections (Rick Owens, Akris, Ann, Gareth, Givenchy, Celine, Gaultier, Jil, Margiela, Cdg)

And finally there are some really disappointing/missing ones. I miss Gallianos shows for his own label, McQueen is pretty lackluster, Junya Watanbe was kind of lackluster this season too, Antonio Marras is a great designer but seems to be in a depression atm, I miss JPG for Hermes and I miss Riccardos naive, emotional collections, I miss when Ghesquire did great collections (with s/s 09 as the last one being relatively new). Also Alistar Carr was missing, but we'll have him back next season.

The only glimpses of genius were the 3 I mentioned first, with Haider showing is best collection to date, I think.

 

[happytrail]

favorites
1. balenciaga
2. dries van noten
3. vera wang
4. mary katrantzou
5. yohji yamamoto
6. gary graham
7. bottega veneta
8. a.f. vandevorst
9. elizabeth and james
10. marni
bonus: alexandre plokhov (menswear)

disappointments
1. dolce & gabbana (not that i expect greatness, but they have lost it for years now)
2. gucci
3. marc jacobs

 

[Tentacl Ventricl]

We will often, in paying attention to the storied brands ossified in fashion's near history, go on a bit of a history lesson. The media engendered Raf -v- Hedi transfer sagas pitted Yves against Christian; Pinault -v- Arnault. It was silly nonsense really, an old score mainly set to rest, but it caught the pack imagination and obviously the two french conglommerates compete in the same contemporary market. We in fact saw a concerted phallanx from brand team LVMH to flank Dior with a co-ordinated riff on the codes of Yves also. A cross brand cohort to poke a finger out of the dark and into the light. Dior's purity, classicism, sensuality, modernism was flanked (in modernist graphics by LV, Fendi - though that is Yves Mondrian dresses nevertheless Dior is avowedly modernist - just by the pure timing of it's iconography), yet the strict minimalism is cut back with japonisme, slouch, the transcendental Jung (Celine, Givenchy). The latter aspects being essentially outside Dior's DNA but linked back via notions of elegance and purity.

The Yves and Dior thing essentially takes us back in time to a point in year 1960. For any not familiar with the basic plot - a potted stroke - Christian Dior passed, in 57, the house reins to the young Yves. But by 1960, after a supposedly poor season industrialist brand owner Marcel Boussac sacks Yves and permits him to be pressganged/conscripted into the french military. Where he lasts for just 20 days. The initiation rites - hazing - he endures and the psychedlics and electromagnetic experimentations in hospital after, says Yves, are what later drive him to drink and drug misjudgements.

Pierre Berge once romantic partner, then solely business partner, sells in 2008/9 after Yves death from brain cancer the art collection they's built up out of proceeds of 'inventing' Pret a Porter for in excess of 300 million euro.

YSL was always the newgen upstart. In a way he and Pierre came to win as the 60's moved on and into the 70's. Dior's iconic moment perhaps remains 1947's new look silhouette. Their DNA is bound up with the 50's. Yves, after he and Pierre set up shop in opposition from 1960 drive a more libidinous, edgier, sexier louche particularly from 1966 with LeSmoking and later see-thru peasant blouses, safari, a path to the botanical gardens of Marrakech and powder haze of Studio 54.

So this is the backdrop to Berge's appointment, aparently, of Mr Hedi Slimane. Hedi delivers a collection of Yves tropes rocked up heroin chic goth stylie to all black. ''Wiccan'' cries Tim Blanks on Style.com. In the aftermath of the collection Hedi transmits an aura as black as his collection into the net via his open spat with NYT's Cathy Horyn and his malicious tweeting.

We are reminded that it's not the end of the world but a New Dawn. Raf turned our heads to light. He was also phallanxed from outside the LVMH stable by Prada, MiuMiu, Chloe, Rick Owens, Gareth Pugh, Yohji and no doubt several others.

It was a stale old rivalry in the historical sense but really faced off elegant natural sensuality against a dirtier form of rocked out sex. Cleanliness was not necessarily an old fashioned value. Just attention to the body in honoured preparation. For occasion or sensual ritual. Yves represented, Raf victorious, Hedi in someplace of darkness.The light of SS13 the bright sweet light of the cosmic natural high.

 

[Caffeine]

^wow! so well-written. Thank you.

 

[MulletProof]

^ I know.

 

[TianSoFine]

I think this was one of the best recent fashion months as a whole. It was definitely not a flashy and exciting fashion month, but the quality of design and craftsmanship was quite good. There were some surprising disappointments, but also many things I did not expect to love. This might be a long post...

New York was disappointing in general, but I guess we know what to expect from New York and that isn't something that appeals to me too much. I think New York does have some good shows, but there are just too many that seem to be there just to inflate the schedule. London was one of the best LFW's I've ever seen. Milan was disappointing for a large part but had some real gems. I didn't think anyone would surpass London this time but Paris was beyond anything.

Favourite collections:

1. Chanel - I think Karl brought a quality to the collection that was lost somewhere in the 2000s. Just as I thought Chanel was getting a little lacklustre, I found a new collection to fall in love with.

2. Giles - I think this should be an example for designers. It's bursting with creativity but it's all very tasteful, and I can imagine feeling quite beautiful if I were to wear something from this collection.

3. Rick Owens - It was breathtaking. No more needs to be said.

4. John Galliano - I know it's not the same as Galliano's own ingenuity, but it was lovely nonetheless.

5. Alberta Ferretti - Everything was just so beautiful!

6. Antonio Berardi - I can't really describe why I loved this collection, but I just did. I guess it's the silhouettes and details.

7. Lanvin - Lanvin just never disappoints me. Alber is amazing.

8. Balenciaga - I'm not much of a Balenciaga girl and Ghesquire's aesthetic has never really appealed to me. This collection seemed to go back to the roots of the brand I loved it.

9. Donna Karan - It seems to me that she went beyond what she normally does, and it worked like a charm.

10. Marchesa - Should I feel guilty for putting this on my list? I did think it was very good, though.

 

[happytrail]

favorites
1. balenciaga
2. dries van noten
3. vera wang
4. mary katrantzou
5. yohji yamamoto
6. gary graham
7. bottega veneta
8. a.f. vandevorst
9. elizabeth and james
10. marni
bonus: alexandre plokhov (menswear)

disappointments
1. dolce & gabbana (not that i expect greatness, but they have lost it for years now)
2. gucci
3. marc jacobs

i forgot to add saint laurent to my list of favorites. silly me! beautifully tailored, specific, and a great comeback (and welcome to womenswear) for hedi slimane.

 

[abadonna]

my favourites:
A.F Vandevorst (last 3 seasons)
Gareth Pugh
Chanel
Valentino
Elie Saab

 

[kasper!]

Bottega Veneta
Chloe
Haider Ackerman
Hermes
Roksanda Ilinic

 

[Zhanna]

Here my Top 10 Favorite Collections

1- Maison Martin Margiela



2- Haider Ackermann



3- Cushnie et Ochs



4- Alberta Ferretti




5- Jil Sander



6- Chloé



7- Carven



8- Christopher Kane



9- Burberry Prorsum




10- Antonio Berardi



compositions by me & pictures from stylebistro

 

[iluvjeisa]

My favourites - in no particular order:

Haider Ackermann - those metallic striped outfits were wonderful.

Dior - I loved the black top and rose skirt very much.

Saint Laurent - It was a great mood and beautiful tailoring that you rarely see for that type of style (bohemic 60s/70s).

Rick Owens - this more dreamy vibe gave his designs more depth.

Yohji Yamamoto - perfection and so relaxed.

 

[Jinadaze]

My 10 favourites:

1. Givenchy




2. Lanvin




3. Calvin Klein




4. Alexander Wang




5. Balenciaga


nowfashion, style

 

[Jinadaze]

. . .

6. Jason Wu



7. Gianfranco Ferré



8. Mugler



9. Damir Doma



10. Haider Ackermann


nowfashion, style

 

[RedandNavy]

Top Ten Collections - Part 1

My 10 favorite collections of Spring / Summer are:

Thakoon (doesn't seem to be a favorite here, but he designed another gorgeous collection

Jason Wu (a bit naughtier than usual - quite a good change

Preen (Gotta love the mix of snakes with roses, so beautifully executed

Jonathan Saunders (his designs are so much fun, always

Marni (I'm loving it when Marni goes for solids!)

 

[RedandNavy]

Top Ten Collections - Part 2

Jil Sander (beautiful in its simplicity

Argh, unfortunatelly my picture source (vogue.de for all pics) just went to maintainance and I don't want to wait forever with posting the rest, so here they go without pics - I guess you know how those look anyway...

Haider Ackermann (just gorgeous, so cool yet elegant, so relaxed yet fierce)

Alexander McQueen (I don't care how many of you will tell me she's no Lee, I love her approach. Bees rule for me!)

Lanvin (just perfection)

Balenciaga (loving this season's less voluminous sillhouettes)

 

[Tentacl Ventricl]

Argh, unfortunatelly my picture source (vogue.de for all pics) just went to maintainance and I don't want to wait forever with posting the rest, so here they go without pics - I guess you know how those look anyway...

It's true. Although I loved the way the poster above you's visuals, in the way she edited, and in joining up collections I might not have joined up, made me some of the collections in a new way?

 

[Mockingbird]

My favorite collections:
1. Haider Ackermann
2. Lanvin
3. Jil Sander
4. Jason Wu
5. Elie Saab

My least favorite collections:
1. Dolce & Gabbana
2. Louis Vuitton
3. Alexander McQueen
4. Dior
5. Prada

 

[Psylocke]

I think this was actually my favorite S/S season in quite a few years. I loved the unusual darkness and heaviness of many of the collections.

Positive surprises this season were Fendi and Salvatore Ferragamo, two brands I don’t usually get excited about but they both delivered flawless collections and really helped making MFW more interesting this season, along with Prada and Jil Sander, of course.

Can’t say I was massively disappointed with any collections in particular, though two of my usual favorites, Dries van Noten and Damir Doma, both showed collections I found extremely ugly, so that was a bit of a letdown. Balmain was extremely hideous this season. And I was appalled by the many disgusting shoes this season: Celine, Prada and Givenchy deserving a special mention.

Lots of gorgeous sharp tailoring, soft and feminine dresses and great use of leather at many of my favorite designers' shows. I also seem to be obsessed with sexy shorts like the ones at Ann Demeulemeester this season and transparent tops paired with suits or heavy fabrics.

My favorite shoes were the ones at Rodarte and favorite accessories probably the ones at Fendi and Proenza Schouler.


I have so many favorite collections this time and I wanted to post them all, so I made cute little collages. Enjoy!


New York:
1. Tess Giberson
2. Rad by Rad Hourani
3. Narciso Rodriguez
4. Gary Graham
5. Proenza Schouler

London:
1. Jean-Pierre Braganza (this might be my favorite collection overall)
2. David Koma

Milan:
1. Salvatore Ferragamo
2. Fendi
3. Jil Sander

Paris:
1. Nicolas Andréas Taralis
2. Haider Ackermann
3. Ann Demeulemeester
4. Comme des Garçons
5. Balenciaga
6. Lanvin
7. AF Vandevorst
8. Barbara Bui

image source: style.com
except for Salvatore Ferragamo and Fendi which are from vogue.co.uk
and Rad by Rad Hourani which is from fashionising.com