Lutz Huelle S/S 2025 Paris

[Machinegumm]

vogue.com

 

[Cocteau Stone]

It’s cute for Lutz, but bit of a step back from last season. Too much poplin and denim and not enough colour. The touches of gold are nice, but the bandeaus are not the right choice. They’re so hodge podgy and ill fitting.

 

[Norden]

oh man, I love lutz, but there are a couple of things off here.
The styling is a persistent issue, but now also couple with uninteresting make up and hair.
I also find the fabrication and detailing of the garments off and a bit simplistic. It feels unelevated, even though these democratic fabrics might be his thing. I wish he'd cut down on looks, focus more on developing what is good, deeper. I also find the horizontal pleating on the last looks very superfluous, like why is it there? what volume is it creating? what is it solving?
usually his stuff looks really desirable in stores, so lets hope that happens here also. Im always rooting for this guy and buy his stuff, but this presentation could have been sharper and more elevated.

I wish he got more support!

 

[MulletProof]

Too much poplin and denim and not enough colour.

Thank god for that, I don’t like his cheerful palette lol..

I wouldn’t ask him to give up something that clearly makes him happy such as his experiments with denim but, I just pretend I never saw that at this point! he should put it on hold for a bit now that the trashy labels are going to town with their ‘oMg rEcYclEd dEnIm!’ experiments. Other than that, I like that this is sleeker, less baggy, and give me several pairs of these black trousers, now that’s something there’s never enough of and could use an experiment or two!

 

[susseinmcswanny]

One thing I do like about this and Lutz is the lightheartedness. I notice for example most of the recent content Galliano makes for couture is horror related. And while I do love horror, I kind of wonder, and not targeting him specifically, why so many creatives aim to evoke the “negative” emotions in their work. Yes it can be cathartic I guess but there is both the yin and yang to catharsis. Art does not have to solely be about drama and pain. It is kind of refreshing to see someone exploring in the opposite direction.

 

[susseinmcswanny]

Also Lutz if you’re reading this pick me

 

[susseinmcswanny]

Once I read Bataille it’s gonna be over for everyone

 

[MulletProof]

I notice for example most of the recent content Galliano makes for couture is horror related. And while I do love horror, I kind of wonder, and not targeting him specifically, why so many creatives aim to evoke the “negative” emotions in their work.

High levels of testosterone (male-dominated area in the field) and effects on a pituitary gland they’ve never bothered to get checked. It pushes people into stuff like horror and other forms of inspiration/entertainment based on aggression.

.. and then they wonder why it doesn’t sych well with female consumers lol.

 

[Cocteau Stone]

Thank god for that, I don’t like his cheerful palette lol..

I wouldn’t ask him to give up something that clearly makes him happy such as his experiments with denim but, I just pretend I never saw that at this point! he should put it on hold for a bit now that the trashy labels are going to town with their ‘oMg rEcYclEd dEnIm!’ experiments. Other than that, I like that this is sleeker, less baggy, and give me several pairs of these black trousers, now that’s something there’s never enough of and could use an experiment or two!

True, his choices in colours are rarely the most desirable. They’re very IKEA in a way, and I wish he had a good colourist working alongside him.

The pants are great! He knows his way around legs and also shoulders. They really are imbued with that classic Margiela spirit.

 

[tricotineacetat]

I think this is absolutely delightful - Amongst the many independent designers who closed their businesses' during Covid, he understood this was his moment and delivered something strong, repeatedly, that holds the torch up for a design that is both conceptual and desirable to equal amounts, refining his thing in an unhurried pace.

This is the kind of assurance the industry needs and I hope it pays off for him. He deserves it thoroughly. ❤️

 

[Darko]

Jorts are here to stay for the SS2025
Tbh I like

 

[tourbillions]

wouldnt mind seeing him at balenciaga

 

[Phuel]

Next to the exquisite Celine offering, this is a fav. ...And restores a little faith that Paris isn’t a complete dumpster after all (… until Jacquemus shows up of course….)

It’s a masterclass of DIY talent. Spontaneous, intuitive, inventive, playful and still flattering to a woman’s form. There are absolutely strong whiffs of OG Margiela— Gaultier’s Margie, to be exact: The off-the-shoulder block of a blazer; the bespoke pinstripes that end with lace hems; the cheongsam drop and fit of a trenchdress; the top half of a gown worn as a vest/corset over a white shirt; the troupe-l’oeil of an embroidery print… Charming, clever, creative extensions of Gaultier/Margiela concepts rather than ripoffs.

Rather nfortunate for the hideous color-palette; that runny, watery brown, that mint green is too much of a reminder of some discount Neapolitan ice cream. The canary yellow is gorgeous tho.

 

[Lola701]

I love Lutz so I have a biais…
However, once looks 10, 12, 13, 16, 17, 18, 19, 20, 23, 25, 26 and 31 are removed, it’s pure perfection.

 

[avonlea002]

It's a decent offering but there is something about it that feels so Lidl

 

[jeanclaude]

There is only one look I like:

PS: Hi Lutz!!!

 

[donyan]

I was disappointed at first but after looking through it several times, and despite the sad colours this actually feels like a step forward. Whereas his collections can sometimes be on the shapeless side this feels sharper and more focused, despite the apparently simple materials. As always, the ideas are there, but they seems more linked to a proper look this time: the small waists, the low shorts and pants, the boob tube dresses and suits (my favourite thing here) and the horizontal pleats at the end.
The location didn’t help, I much preferred the dark, dramatic atmosphere of last season, and seeing the audience so close to the runway is distracting.

 

[philophile]

The only look I like is the one with the cropped denim jacket and asymmetrical skirt, which is something seen before at Rokh (and I prefer Rokh's version a lot more).

I appreciate the fact that he's a 'DIY' independent, but overall I fail to see the 'brilliance' in this. My problem with it is simply that it's not appealing, especially to female eyes. Normally, I never have a problem with a male designer designing for females, but in this case, you can just see it, when that is not the case most of the times with others.

 

[donyan]

seems like I was wrong about the location

Lutz Huelle’s spring show took place at the INHA, the library of the Institut National de l’Histoire de l’Art—a venue worthy of winning the award for The Most Stunning Location of Paris Fashion Week. Huelle also deserves recognition for presenting one of the most delightfully clever and inventive collections of the week, proving that, despite a limited budget, with good ideas, a skillful handling of the métier and a sense of humor, you can deliver a knockout show.The wood-paneled library of the INHA is housed in the grand Salle Labrouste, a 19th-century marvel. To grasp its magnitude, it holds 1,800 manuscripts, 20,000 rare books, 30,000 prints, and 45,000 autographs. “When you consider that books have been burned or banned in some parts of the world, the fact that this place was built to safeguard and share knowledge is truly amazing,” Huelle remarked. Its frescoed high ceilings are topped by domes “round and ample like crinolines,” that apparently inspired the architecture. “There’s an echo of fashion here,” Huelle noted. “Everything we create builds on what came before us. If you consider how much progress is represented in this space—and fashion is progress, always evolving, always at the forefront of who we are.”Huelle’s inspiration for the collection sparked when he spotted a couple on the street, dressed in formal wear—the man in a sharp suit, the woman in a flowing evening gown. This encounter made him contemplate the gap between these two wardrobe archetypes, and explore how he could gradually transform a traditional blazer-and-trousers ensemble into a dress suitable for special occasions.To do so, he played a sort of cut-and-paste charade, where he started slicing off a suit at the waist, using the bottom part as a skirt. From there he went inventive, reworking and assembling wardrobe staples and trimmings—a crisp tuxedo shirt (accordion-pleated at the waist and made into a bustier), an oversized bomber (the front was cut out and lined with lace exposing its layers), and lengths of lace ribbons (left dangling from a cotton T-shirt, attached on the waist of a blazer, or trailing behind a satin dress). One of the standout pieces was a silver and black jacquard evening bustier top stitched to a men’s white poplin shirt—it practically begged to be part of your wardrobe. Equally attractive was a voluminous duchesse opera coat, featuring horizontally-pleated pagoda sleeves, replicating the vertically-pleated bib of a tuxedo shirt.Huelle wears his remarkable creativity and skills with such levity, it feels almost ridiculously effortless—you could imagine him cleverly crafting an entire collection from a simple white T-shirt in no time, and with no pretense.

Vogue Runway