NEW YORK, September 12, 2008
By Meenal Mistry
The gusts of wind coming off the Hudson and sweeping straight down 21st Street to the door of the Gagosian Gallery set a fitting scene for L'Wren Scott's Spring collection, named "Zephyr," after the Greek god of wind. "There was a windstorm when I was designing," Scott explained inside the gallery. She set herself a specific goal this time: injecting billowing movement into her strict, rake-slim signature silhouettes of skinny jeans; sharp Victorian-inflected jackets; and lean, curve-gripping dresses. That objective was reflected in this almost exclusively black and white collection's vaguely avian theme: tail-feather pleats on fitted jackets, featherlike tufts atop a pinstriped chiffon blouse, or fat white feathers jutting from the sleeves and neck of a corseted cream dress. Siren gowns had both wispy marabou trim and the gentle swish of a fishtail hem. A dramatic marabou cape looked as if it might just take flight.
The collection had Scott's typical rock 'n' roll elegance, complete with dolly-bird hair and tilted lace fedoras, the latter a collaboration with Stephen Jones. The stylist-turned-designer is now in her fifth season, and her message rings ever more confidently and clearly, as evidenced by numbers like a romantic black plissé dress with white lace shoulders and an almost whimsical "gloubule" lace shift.
To finish, there was a trio of white evening looks, though Scott—known for advocating 24/7 glamour—wouldn't categorize them as bridal. "They're just dresses to wear out," she said. After a final model lineup, the designer raised a glass of Champagne to the assembled: Ellen Barkin, Sarah Jessica Parker, Rachel Feinstein Currin and John Currin, and Scott's beau Mick Jagger, as well as those members of the working press lucky enough to snag a ticket. Parker gave her a giggly, girly hug. Mick's verdict: "I loved it." Enough said.
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