Maison Margiela Artisanal Haute Couture S/S 2024 Paris

[gallianostan]

I wonder what Margiela himself thinks of this collection.

he's probably drinking to forget. but if this interview is anything to go by, he might actually like it.

 

[Pastry]

^
oh boy, i hope he doesn't look at anything that has to do with his name.

 

[chinsumo]

JG backstage

 

[lookatme]

he's probably drinking to forget. but if this interview is anything to go by, he might actually like it.

Thanks for posting this interview.

Loved this particular quote: “It’s wrong how people sometimes describe his work,” says John Galliano, today. “Everyone has to look at his earlier work to really get what Martin was about. It was full of emotion and it was romantic. That early stuff. Flea-bitten, put-together. Fierce. Fierce. And romantic.”

John is correct.

I recently watched for the first time the Margiela documentary that came out a few years ago - and I was so impressed because I felt for the first time I was actually seeing what Martin was all about. We really do have such an ill preconceived idea of what his brand and his work was…it’s almost like we all kind of think of him as the intellectual grandfather of Raf Simons or Demna…

But seeing his early collections and shows…they truly are so romantic, curious, idiosyncratic, passionate and warm. Margiela was not a cold, hard designer. I think he and John have more in common than any of the Martin imitators.

And I think John is actually getting closer and closer to the SPIRIT of the house - especially in the last 2-3 years. I can see it and feel it more and the Margiela documentary reinforced and confirmed that sense for me.

 

[Pastry]

^ i think your comment is well thought-out and very valid. but we must always be careful when speaking in absolutes such as 'we all'. i totally see how the margiela brand might be perceived as "conceptual" on a popular level. however, cold, hard or clinical is the last thing on my mind when i think of margiela's design legacy. and the more educated mmm fans and customers know that. yourself included!

i think it would be more accurate to attribute restraint, economy, and design discipline to margiela rather than any sort of lack of warmth. the human condition is at the centre of his design language. ephemerality, fragility and romance are just as important to the margiela aesthetic as the deconstruction maneuvers so closely associated with the brand. margiela's margiela though, didn't cross into melodrama or excessive refinement.

to me, JG spends a little too much time worshipping at the temple of beauty and not enough time on the street.

still, beautiful john galliano collection! 😛

 

[LadyJunon]

to me, JG spends a little too much time worshipping at the temple of beauty and not enough time on the street.

Have you seen the street these days?

Honestly, while John's Margiela is overly precious and beautiful, it's an increasingly rare design trait in the age of Demna, JWA and Martine Rose.

 

[Pastry]

Have you seen the street these days?

Honestly, while John's Margiela is overly precious and beautiful, it's an increasingly rare design trait in the age of Demna, JWA and Martine Rose.

haha, yes! i live downtown 😜
like Lola said, it was indeed a great fashion moment. still cringy! but a feast for the eyes, for sure.

 

[chinsumo]

 

[lookatme]

Absolutely spectacular detail shots.

 

[Pastry]

yeah i think those amazing gloves and all the scraped knee doll stuff is the best part.

 

[jeanclaude]

 

[chinsumo]

 

[tourbillions]

not the making of the merkin Guess they're having their moment

 

[susseinmcswanny]

i knew I should’ve downloaded those pics before they got deleted 😑

 

[tourbillions]

it was a bit weird that they all of a sudden posted personal photos backstage. they probably got carried away with the success of the collection.

 

[AnaD]

Will there be a thread for the makeup looks on the forum? Pat McGrath and her team outdid themselves with this show

 

[dodencebt]

I love and appreciate this whole thread, this is exactly what TFS used to be! So many valid points, but I have to disagree with one: This is not a collection only for Galliano fans. It has already captured the hearts of an entire new generation, down to the make up (or maybe especially the make up) and odd details we rarely see at shows anymore. I'm personally very happy to see how instantly celebrated the show is all across social media - TikTok in particular. Hoping this leads to some kind of a change in fashion, whatever that may look like.

 

[jeanclaude]

 

[susseinmcswanny]

Actually I know I said I thought the presentation was a self-indulgent larp before but after reeling in my negative attitude towards life lol and thinking about it in a less cynical way I kinda change my mind or have new thoughts on it. I feel with the show, as self-indulgent as it is, there is a proposal or at least an invitation to think about a more thoughtful and restrictive way of dressing, creating, or consuming in general (if you can even say that really). With the feeling it tries to evoke, that wenchy debaucherous art nouveau vibe, I can see the parallels between the period Galliano references and now, but also a main glaring difference. Back then during the "fin de siecle" the prominence of p*rn*gr*phy and eroticism arose from the restrictions of the culture that people were rebelling against. Those boundaries of the dominant moral codes and behavior caused the proliferation of sexual expression among women, "gheys" lol, and "decadents". And with France trying to put a halt on all the p*rn*gr*phy lol all of that sexual expression filtered into fine and decorative art making it more available for people in society. There was a pretty good action/reaction reason for those political ideologies. Today I feel there is a similar decadence, an even more unrestricted hedonism, but without similar boundaries. Yes there are of course oppressing forces in our society today, but in regards to something like restrictive moral codes and behavior there's not a lot going on there, at least in reference to the gender and sexuality of the people who consume Paris fashion week. There is no constricting force that makes anyone be so decadent other than the ennui from being spiritually obese on the internet. I.e. larping as someone oh so fabulous "challenging the norms" "provoking society" when there's really nothing inside you but a will for attention and validation. Which to me kind of all makes sense mixing and translating the ideas of a brainless decadent larp and all that comes with it with the eroticism of art nouveau into the old brainless dolls clomping around the runway, the prostitutes with the merkins and extremely tight corsets proposing a thoughtful rigor while simultaneously mocking the huge @sses and fake faces of Kim and Kylie wh*ring themselves out online, some things we see today like the trend of bodysuits covering the face, fingers, and all interpreted in colors of the fauves. There is a lot going on in there that made me think a lot about why people (me included lol) do the things we do today and how maybe I can change to be more thoughtful. And I'm still looking. And still waiting for the show notes... Anyways that's my projection onto it lol. I feel bad for being so superficial and negative as a first reaction.

 

[gallianostan]

And still waiting for the show notes...