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In 2014, John Galliano entered the headquarters of Maison Margiela in Paris, a building that has lived almost as many lives as he himself (before reincarnate in atelier was convent and school of industrial design), converted into his new creative director. After a year letting himself be wooed by Renzo Rosso, president of the group Only The Brave, had accepted at last to take the reins of the cult firm founded in 1988 by the enigmatic designer Martin Margiela, e try to make his DNA his own. There was who He did not understand the play. In the end, What did the elusive Margiela have to do with with the excessive Galliano? How it seemed the non-conformist avant-garde of Belgian to the theatrical drama of Gibraltar? Four years later, time and Galliano's colossal talent have given him the reason to Rosso, and Maison Margiela grows to an annual rhythm of two digits. When entering the building, first thing what is surprising is the contrast between the sill of doors, floors and moldings with aseptic aesthetics, almost laboratory, that reigns in the decoration. All the employees de la maison dress white coat, and John Galliano, who wears his hair in a bun, is not an exception -Under it is guessed an impeccable suit-. But in the office where he receives Vogue, Maximalism asks for turn. The stay it's a kind of curio cabinet where art works, memories, Flea market finds, antiques and simply unclassifiable objects. After overcoming the temptation to ask him to tell the story of each and every one of they, the talk is brought back to the motive of this meeting: the launch of Mutiny, the first perfume that the Briton has developed for Maison Margiela, and that celebrated its coming out last September during the transgressive parade of spring-summer 2019 of the firm.
I've been looking for different ways for a long time to express a new kind of glamor, and the challenge of defining olfactory the Margiela woman is part of that exploration, "he explains. «It is an essence strong, very present: notes if who the I had been in the room even when he has already left ». From the bottle or the packaging to, of course, the aroma of the fragrance, Mutiny is consistent with the language and the codes that Galliano uses to create your collections. A representative example: in an almost alchemical process that he resisted years, the master perfumer Dominique Ropion adapted the technique most used by the designer, the décortiqué (reduce a garment to his skeleton) to deconstruct the essence of the nard in notes individual, and rebuild it again with a totally new result. If this does not It is haute couture of perfumery, nothing is.
The name of the fragrance, which translates by 'riot', it's quite a statement of intentions. Galliano looks ignite the spark of a rebellion against outdated conventions and traditional roles of gender, and for this he has chosen six ambassadors ("my mutinists") who represent a non-binary femininity and they defend values such as nonconformity, individuality or diversity. Between them are the actress and singer Willow Smith, the intersex top Hanne Gaby Odiele or the model Transsexual Teddy Quinlivan. "We want create a platform where people can share experiences that show them that there are many more people in the same situation. I think that would be something very positive, "says Galliano. Speaks own experience: "I wish they had social networks existed when I was Teen. I thought it was the weird, that there was no one else like me in the world. After all, that was the information I received from my family or at school ». In addition to his activism, Galliano was the millennial generation fascinates by its form to understand fashion and self-expression: «I am inspired by the way they 'Curate' your look, that glamor thought for the square format and the followers ».
Instagram also gave him a foot to create one of his most recent collections disruptive: in its 2018 summer parade of Artisanal (the haute couture line), the clothes looked one color with the eye and another with the phone camera due to the use of a reflective fabric that reacted to the flashes. It has been one of the great momentazos (with permission from Rihanna dressed of papisa at the gala of the Met) of his' era Margiela ', where he has managed to give continuity to the legacy of the Belgian while remaining faithful himself not a single minute. Shortly before that Galliano joined the firm, the two were once to tea, and the meeting ended up lasting six hours. «I learned a lot about him, and that I had documented thoroughly, "he says. For once in my life I kept quiet and I just listened. And he, who has that kind of incredible aura, he spoke and he spoke ... It was as if he gave me his blessing » The truth is that their paths have already they had crossed before: in the eighties, both they frequented London clubs like the Taboo, and on another occasion they shared floor for a few hours. «It was at the beginning of my career. I came to Paris to present a parade, but I had no financial means, and Martin left me part of an apartment to prepare the collection, do the casting, etc. He worked on one side of the floor and I in the other, and I remember putting tape adhesive on the lock and around the door so we could not look inside », he remembers smiling.
At 57, Galliano is seen today more connected, more present. As sewing, has discovered another facet of yes very receptive to embrace the unexpected. «Now I understand that the process of work can be as beautiful as the result final », he admits. It's not the only thing He has changed in his life. Because although we are not allowed to ask about the elephant in the room, probably there is not a single person in the industry that do not know why the Briton He was expelled from the throne of fashion seven years ago today. The past sometimes comes back to torment us, but it does not seem That is his case. "I'm very happy. I am happy, "he says. I do not know what the future, but I'm focused on the day to day, in the step by step; that concept that never I had understood before ». And now what understands? "Oh yeah. I believe so".
As a closing, the designer shares A memorable olfactory memory. «Do you want to hear a story? Have what to do with Spain », advances. And his mind moves to April 1 that happened years ago in Seville, where did you travel to get reacquainted with his Spanish roots after death from a very dear friend, and ended up being witness of the "sacred act of dressing" of the bullfighter Miguel Abellán before a bullfight. «When entering the room, the first thing that I noticed it was the smell of wood. Then the clock. TIC Tac. And silence. Miguel appeared in coat; below it was totally naked, He looked like a god. Jacinto, his dressing room, was going giving the garments: stockings, bowtie, cap. There were two suits of lights, one pink and another black and white. He asked me to choose one, and I chose black and white. They called to the door. His father entered with him walking stick. He looked at Miguel and said: 'Why have you put on that suit? ' I was in a emotional roller coaster. Then Miguel He invited me to go to the square in his van, with his gang Suddenly, the smell of bulls, testosterone Finally, he asked me to pray with him and I accompanied him to the chapel; was how to be in the Take a Bow video clip, of Madonna. I can never thank you enough that experience, because the sensations and the courage that he transmitted to me they made me stronger "• M. Contreras