Marc Jacobs F/W 2024.25 New York

Marc's moodboard:

- Maison Martin Margiela, A/W 2000–2001.
- Comme des Garçons, “Body meets dress, dress meets body,” spring-summer 1997
- Cosplay costumes of Disney Princesses
- The wardrobe of Miuccia Prada (especially the colors and skirts)
- Lady Gaga in the 2D Comme des Garçons Dress
- Prada S/S 2021
- Minnie Mouse Costume
- Moschino Clown Collection S/S 2019
- Shelley Duval as Olive Oyl
- Christmas Elf Shoes
- Rihanna with Valentino Fake Lashes Sunglasses at the Met Gala 2023

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etsy, ebay, vestiaire collective, pinterest, maisondegaga, vogue, stylight.at, the cut, amazon, visionplusmag
The first section also had some early Chalayan vibes, don't you think?
 
Would Sofia Coppola wear this?
Would Winona Ryder wear this?
Would Dakota Fanning wear this?
Would Christina Ricci wear this?
Would Debi Mazar/ Juliette Lewis wear this?
Would Venetia Scott wear this?
Would Katie Grand wear this?
Would Annd Wintour wear this?
Would Marc Jacobs wear this himself?

Who is this collection for? It's not ugly, just very confusing as a brand.
I do like that fake Chanel pink bag though, at only 5-10% of what Chanel is retailing at, quite a good replacement
None of his muses would wear these or anything in the Marc Jacobs shop right now. He’s kind of lost touch with that customer a long time ago. Everyone “grows up” and you either grow up with them, or don’t.

Sofia these days wears Chanel of course, Charvet, and Carhartt.

These days the shows are mostly a branding exercise for the tote bags. And the logo clothes in the shop are for a younger, Gen Z audience.
 
Bad news is he's lost a lot of his dash at LV (& maybe cash). Good news is he seems interested again in his craft. Last show and these look like Marc is motivated again. Good for him. I like look 6 a lot, and some of his color combos. His runway pictures have their own angle/look a few seasons now, which make them recognizable from the rest. Overall outside of some fashion refs I think it shares an element of twisted humor with contemporary American artists like John Currin, Condo, Urs Fischer, etc. I've learned it's unwise to discard a serious creator the moment they're out of the limelight. If a designer makes a collection like he has something real to say again, I, like one of these poupees, bat my lashes, perk up and listen.
 
Wat is he saying?
That he likes copying from 60s Courrèges (among others)??
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formidablemag.com/
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vogue.fr
 
What I appreciate here - and overall from Marc - is his genuine interest in fashion, rather than making money of it while acting as if above it, which we've seen from many during the last 10 years. While I don't think he'd be the right one to take over Chanel as some are saying, he obv still has more creative juice in him than some of the names floating around. If Galliano could get Margiela to slowly turn it into his signature line, why wouldn't Marc get another shot at a LVMH-owned brand like Fendi - it would surely be more exiting than what Kim is currently doing + he knows about hit bags.
 
What an unnecessary tired and old exercise in absolute nothingness, seemingly packaged as “fashion”, and addressed as “joy” - so no haters feel compelled to critique it. Doesnt work like that lol.
 
Hmmge...There was a time when people often compared Ghesquière and Marc (this seems to be a story from more than 10 years ago lol...). However, at this point, although Ghesquière is one of my favorite designers, I feel that he no longer maintains the working attitude he had in the past—a carefree, exuberant enthusiasm. In contrast, Marc Jacobs completely embodies those qualities at this time, even as his brand is gradually fading into obscurity. When Balenciaga was just a small fashion house, Nicolas Ghesquière was able to keep everything under control. Everything he did at that time seemed meticulously crafted, like a delicious cake, though small, still leaving people craving for more.

It seems that when holding helm at major luxury houses like LV, Chanel, Dior, Gucci, etc,... everyone places expectations on the CDs of those houses to the point of expecting them to...move mountains. And a creative director, after leaving those giants to focus on smaller fashion houses and their own namesake labels, seems to begin to be more tolerated and acknowledged by people. Marc Jacobs is one of those fortunate individuals; people are even hoping for him to go to Chanel.
 
Hmmge...There was a time when people often compared Ghesquière and Marc (this seems to be a story from more than 10 years ago lol...). However, at this point, although Ghesquière is one of my favorite designers, I feel that he no longer maintains the working attitude he had in the past—a carefree, exuberant enthusiasm. In contrast, Marc Jacobs completely embodies those qualities at this time, even as his brand is gradually fading into obscurity. When Balenciaga was just a small fashion house, Nicolas Ghesquière was able to keep everything under control. Everything he did at that time seemed meticulously crafted, like a delicious cake, though small, still leaving people craving for more.

It seems that when holding helm at major luxury houses like LV, Chanel, Dior, Gucci, etc,... everyone places expectations on the CDs of those houses to the point of expecting them to...move mountains. And a creative director, after leaving those giants to focus on smaller fashion houses and their own namesake labels, seems to begin to be more tolerated and acknowledged by people. Marc Jacobs is one of those fortunate individuals; people are even hoping for him to go to Chanel.
Nicolas doesn’t have the same attitude towards fashion or people are just not into what his proposition is?
For me it’s just that.
There’s something comforting, familiar with what Marc is doing. It’s necessarily challenging.

The biggest question about Marc’s work is why he gets that insane warm reception everytime while nobody is buying the clothes or are buying stuff from the commercial line, detached from the runway…For years!

Marc is fabulous at capturing what’s going on in fashion. His own collections reflects a general interest or taste in fashion but it’s not driving fashion forward.

I think that Nicolas at Vuitton doesn’t have that intention to drive the fashion conversation forward like his younger and maybe more competitive self was at Balenciaga. At the same time, you cannot expect a 50 years old man to have the same purpose in the way he is doing his job as he had in the past.

I think Marc however has always been drove by the show, the statement of the show. It was like that at Vuitton, it is like that at his own brand. It doesn’t even matter that those clothes don’t have a reality because it’s all about the show and the moment.
 
I still keep trying to define why I like this so much, and I'm very aware of my failure.

Latest I came up with it's like an off-off-Broadway show costuming for an absurdist comedy about visual culture and fashion in the 20th century.

I kinda think MJ is the only one who uses the theatre as a reference, the only one who uses it successfully at least.

That there isn't much of a commercial reality to it is a bummer.
 
Well he's definitely not going to Chanel and that's a very good thing these brands and the workload is not the same as they used to be is 10 times more and he's already been through all that he doesn't need it and this was a great show personal him through and through I loved it
 

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