Marc Jacobs S/S 2024 New York

[LadyJunon]

 

[LadyJunon]

This collection has a very strong CdG undertone to it, which I really like. I hope that some of the pieces shown will actually make it to production, because the current store offering is trash.

 

[gallianostan]

why the f*ck do i like this! it's strangely endearing! i feel uncomfortable!

 

[ivano]

It's something that Karl would have done during his 2007-10 phase at Chanel. Loving the snaps from Instagram.

 

[Pastry]

i think mj not-so-secretly wants to be rei kawakubo.

 

[susseinmcswanny]

Mj not so secretly wants to be rei kawakubo, rick owens, miuccia prada, demna, etc ...

 

[Pastry]

Mj not so secretly wants to be rei kawakubo, rick owens, miuccia prada, demna, etc ...

ugh, evidently..
it's just that that the cdg cosplay seems (to my eye) stronger than usual this time..

seriously though, does anyone know if they even produce the runway stuff anymore? i haven't seen any mj (runway or commercial) in the stores in what feels like over a decade. and even back then, there would be a very sparse selection.

who is the marc jacobs customer? i still don't know after all these years.

and btw, is the company currently being run on pretty much perfume sales? or maybe licensing? anyone familiar with this?

 

[Snejana Onopka]

marc is quite fun and he clearly knows how to play with his inspirations - in this case comme, a bit of prada and margiela, perhaps a dash of jwa's loewe lol imo - idk if i like it but i was amused watching it. this collection felt very eerie and omnious in an uncanny valley kinda way, quite unsettling.

the way he references things, ie: cdg's 2d/paper doll dresses, margiela trompe-l'œil bikini bodysuit, prada fw 2011, is very similar to tarantino's blatant ""inspirations"" lol like as a viewer we know kill bill is basically a mash up of lady snowblood, five deadly venoms and battle royale BUT it doesn't feel like a copy bc is naive, earnest, direct and honest.

marc loves fashion and he shows it by filtering his inspirations through his pop art sensibilities.

 

[Kimihiro]

and btw, is the company currently being run on pretty much perfume sales? or maybe licensing? anyone familiar with

Beauty and the bags actually sell. They’re popular here in Asia.

 

[Pastry]

Beauty and the bags actually sell. They’re popular here in Asia.

right. very similar to what i thought. good to know the bags are still good. thanks!

 

[susseinmcswanny]

seriously though, does anyone know if they even produce the runway stuff anymore? i haven't seen any mj (runway or commercial) in the stores in what feels like over a decade. and even back then, there would be a very sparse selection.

hmm weren't the last few collections sold exclusively through bergdorfs? I remember going into the MJ store in soho in like 2017 and being shocked seeing those crazy intarsia python platforms irl, but that was 7 years ago (omg) ...

 

[jeanclaude]

He is "derrière-garde"...

 

[Rigida]

Yes I agree with the CDG comments, plus add some John Waters in it.

But it's very Marc. I like it.

 

[StylishCynic]

seriously though, does anyone know if they even produce the runway stuff anymore? i haven't seen any mj (runway or commercial) in the stores in what feels like over a decade. and even back then, there would be a very sparse selection.

Bergdorf Goodman is the only store in the world to sell Marc Jacobs Runway now. It's been an exclusive partnership since Fall 2021.

Most items are produced in 1-3 per size. RTW is priced high and sell-through is strong per my Bergdorf Sales Associate (who technically works in Schiaparelli). It's a perfect formula of exclusivity and the need to satiate only a handful of the most discerning patrons in the world who, in turn, feel that they're making a sane investment, as these pieces will be highly coveted in auctions years and years from now.

the way he references things, ie: cdg's 2d/paper doll dresses, margiela trompe-l'œil bikini bodysuit, prada fw 2011...

My favorite nod is that I believe the bikini knit is actually a reference to the trompe l'œil bra sweaters from Perry Ellis Spring 1983 (the España collection). Marc revered Perry and obviously took the helm of his namesake shortly after his death.

Source: Getty

 

[Kanzai]

I like it, the first looks are better than anything VV has done for Chanel

 

[Snejana Onopka]

My favorite nod is that I believe the bikini knit is actually a reference to the trompe l'œil bra sweaters from Perry Ellis Spring 1983 (the España collection).

wow this is acc even cooler... thanks for the photos and references, besides marc's collections im not familiar at all with perry ellis' work

 

[Lola701]

I’ve always said that Marc Jacobs is the best DJ of fashion.
He has his magical way of referencing his contemporaries’s work, to digest it and to create something that feels very him even if his « codes » are kind of elusive to anyone who doesn’t follow his work or has a narrow vision of it.

I saw many things: Rei Kawakubo (CDG fall 2012), Martin Margiela (the flat collection from fall 1998), JWA (with the toys section of his fall 2023 Loewe and the Clay section of his Spring 2024), Nicolas Ghesquiere (the play on volumes of his Vuitton Spring 2023)…All of that mixed with classic archetypes of Marc Jacobs: the 60’s, the American Sportswear, the very crazy bourgeoise from Park Avenue.

I also wonder if the current craze about Truman Capote’s swans didn’t inspired him for the closing silhouettes.

I saw a fabulous peacoat that I would love to own! The knitwear was particularly successful too.
I think that despite the pared down set, the message was very clear.

This is probably his most successful collection since he started to show Off-Calendar.

Now that everything is said, having a voice like Marc Jacobs creating this collection and presenting it Off-Calendar, in a way isolating himself from the fashion conversation, raise the question of his relevance.

He is an important designer but his work doesn’t have a center stage. While well executed and quite clever, his work doesn’t have the tension needed to push fashion forward despite the ideas.

The brand is financially successful, people at LVMH are happy. But there’s a feeling of emptiness around the brand and the man.

Tom Ford was clever enough to bow because he understood that his voice didn’t have the same impact. I wonder if Marc does realize that.
I don’t want him to retire at all but I won’t pretend that his presence or absence of the fashion calendar has an impact on anyone (Except maybe Linda Fargo).

 

[nonfatgoddess]

With all the references, it has a certain campiness to it so overall it still feels very Marc Jacobs. I’m biased so I’m gonna say that I love it lol

On a side note, I love Ghesquière’s LV but I do miss Marc’s era! That was such an exciting time

 

[tourbillions]

He delivers something to dream about every now and then. This is one of those times, a bit closer to what he did for louis vuitton. I guess he is happy at the current positioning of his label. But all the cheap diffusion line he made probably hurted his chance at competing with labels like tom ford in positioning. If he sold these at current Burberry prices, i wont question and see why it is priced like that. Unlike Burberry's kids clothes.

 

[90sFan]

Marc always rips off someone off - in this case old Margiela, CDG…. And makes it campy and less interesting than the original. The fact he shows in NY only helps him as every other label there is pathetic.