Marc Jacobs S/S 2024 New York

[Kennnnn]

Seeing this suddenly made me really miss mid/late 90s Marc, when he focused on sportswear separates, and there was such a clear and compelling vision of a "MJ woman". I remember the store on Mercer Street, the people working there, the women shopping there, and that whole downtown vibe. It's nice that he's evolved, but it's sad that he's lost the connection to that particular customer. I sometimes wonder what all these women wear now - The Row?

 

[Zorka]

Being sooo sick of Barbicore, this dark, twisted, edgy Barbie collection is *EVERYTHING* to me!!! Love it. ❤️

 

[GivenchyAddict]

This is the Marc Jacobs I love ! @Lola701 you’ve said it all as usual.

I am still mourning Marc not being with Miuccia instead of Raf seriously.

 

[AlbertNoir]

I’ve always said that Marc Jacobs is the best DJ of fashion.
He has his magical way of referencing his contemporaries’s work, to digest it and to create something that feels very him even if his « codes » are kind of elusive to anyone who doesn’t follow his work or has a narrow vision of it.

Can I ask you in a few words to describe me his codes please? ‘Cause i’ve always liked marc’s shows because you never know what to expect, but never understood his codes. Thanks

 

[Lola701]

Can I ask you in a few words to describe me his codes please? ‘Cause i’ve always liked marc’s shows because you never know what to expect, but never understood his codes. Thanks

Marc Jacobs for me is about American Sportswear, real elevated American Sportswear. That means a certain pragmatism and simplicity even compared to French Couture. He knows the history of American fashion!
But it is also a fascination and a real influence of 1960’s Upper class America with the subcultures from the 1980’s, particularly, the NYC underground scene.

At Vuitton, he used the glamour veneer of Paris and the mythology of Haute Couture to reference those eras. There were a lot of 60’s and 80’s inspired collections. He added the 70’s too.

But everything always really bourgeois. I used to say that the Louis Vuitton woman was an eccentric bourgeoise and the Marc Jacobs woman was the crazy (in a fun way) bourgeoise.

In terms of pieces, it shouldn’t be said as an insult but Marc Jacobs is like THE GAP but luxe. Khakis pants, bermudas, simple pants, cashmere grey jumpers, car coats, peacoats, cols Claudine, twin-sets…
A lot of simple shapes, polka dots, stripes and very simple graphic prints.

And I don’t know if it’s the influence of his Perry Ellis collection but there’s always that filter of 90’s in his work in a way to add « Off » elements. He will do a 1960’s inspired silhouette with a touch of 80’s (with the make up for example) and add a beanie.

I’ve always found fascinating that Sofia Coppola is a Marc Jacobs woman because she totally embodies his style. She is a bourgeoise in a very classic sense of the word. She has that sense of primness about her but she was also part of a NYC underground scene. She stands out in formal settings as much as she stands out in more underground scene.

When I compare Marc and his contemporaries: Tom and Michael, Marc is the most urban. Tom is the most European and Michael is the most quote on quote « American ».

I don’t know if I helped you in any way but look at his body of work and you’ll see some things that are recurrent in his work.

 

[vogue28]

VOGUE.COM

 

[vogue28]

VOGUE.COM

 

[Lola701]

Look 10, peacoat of my dreams! Take me to Bergdorf!

 

[AlbertNoir]

Marc Jacobs for me is about American Sportswear, real elevated American Sportswear. That means a certain pragmatism and simplicity even compared to French Couture. He knows the history of American fashion!
But it is also a fascination and a real influence of 1960’s Upper class America with the subcultures from the 1980’s, particularly, the NYC underground scene.

At Vuitton, he used the glamour veneer of Paris and the mythology of Haute Couture to reference those eras. There were a lot of 60’s and 80’s inspired collections. He added the 70’s too.

But everything always really bourgeois. I used to say that the Louis Vuitton woman was an eccentric bourgeoise and the Marc Jacobs woman was the crazy (in a fun way) bourgeoise.

In terms of pieces, it shouldn’t be said as an insult but Marc Jacobs is like THE GAP but luxe. Khakis pants, bermudas, simple pants, cashmere grey jumpers, car coats, peacoats, cols Claudine, twin-sets…
A lot of simple shapes, polka dots, stripes and very simple graphic prints.

And I don’t know if it’s the influence of his Perry Ellis collection but there’s always that filter of 90’s in his work in a way to add « Off » elements. He will do a 1960’s inspired silhouette with a touch of 80’s (with the make up for example) and add a beanie.

I’ve always found fascinating that Sofia Coppola is a Marc Jacobs woman because she totally embodies his style. She is a bourgeoise in a very classic sense of the word. She has that sense of primness about her but she was also part of a NYC underground scene. She stands out in formal settings as much as she stands out in more underground scene.

When I compare Marc and his contemporaries: Tom and Michael, Marc is the most urban. Tom is the most European and Michael is the most quote on quote « American ».

I don’t know if I helped you in any way but look at his body of work and you’ll see some things that are recurrent in his work.

Thank you Lola! You are my favourite fashion voice 🌟 always on point!

 

[Tchi]

Marc Jacobs for me is about American Sportswear, real elevated American Sportswear. That means a certain pragmatism and simplicity even compared to French Couture. He knows the history of American fashion!
But it is also a fascination and a real influence of 1960’s Upper class America with the subcultures from the 1980’s, particularly, the NYC underground scene.

At Vuitton, he used the glamour veneer of Paris and the mythology of Haute Couture to reference those eras. There were a lot of 60’s and 80’s inspired collections. He added the 70’s too.

But everything always really bourgeois. I used to say that the Louis Vuitton woman was an eccentric bourgeoise and the Marc Jacobs woman was the crazy (in a fun way) bourgeoise.

In terms of pieces, it shouldn’t be said as an insult but Marc Jacobs is like THE GAP but luxe. Khakis pants, bermudas, simple pants, cashmere grey jumpers, car coats, peacoats, cols Claudine, twin-sets…
A lot of simple shapes, polka dots, stripes and very simple graphic prints.

And I don’t know if it’s the influence of his Perry Ellis collection but there’s always that filter of 90’s in his work in a way to add « Off » elements. He will do a 1960’s inspired silhouette with a touch of 80’s (with the make up for example) and add a beanie.

I’ve always found fascinating that Sofia Coppola is a Marc Jacobs woman because she totally embodies his style. She is a bourgeoise in a very classic sense of the word. She has that sense of primness about her but she was also part of a NYC underground scene. She stands out in formal settings as much as she stands out in more underground scene.

When I compare Marc and his contemporaries: Tom and Michael, Marc is the most urban. Tom is the most European and Michael is the most quote on quote « American ».

I don’t know if I helped you in any way but look at his body of work and you’ll see some things that are recurrent in his work.

You killed it with mentioning Sofia as the ultimate Marc Girl. So right!

 

[lookatme]

I want to like it, but it just doesn’t have the spark.

I will always love Marc - his 2006-2014 heyday is untouchable fashion legend.

And I love when he gets conceptual and weird and funny. I would never want him to go back to that vintage redux he used to do before he started doing big shows back in 2006- however, what I do miss is that I think he’s lost touch how women want to dress.

His best collections - even at their most outlandish - were always in some way a real proposition of how someone could change their style. Why not incorporate a pilgrim shoe into your wardrobe? Why not style a Victorian blouse with a pair of jeans? Why not mix sequins with a frumpy sweater? Why not wear your silk pajamas out with some heels?

But these new off-calendar shows don’t give me that same feeling. They might look good - but they don’t say anything.

In a way though, I don’t blame him. The culture is so convoluted and chaotic, it’s tough out there to know where to go or what to say. And it’s tough because is anyone even really listening, anyway?

 

[Steddycam91]

I want to like it, but it just doesn’t have the spark.

I will always love Marc - his 2006-2014 heyday is untouchable fashion legend.

And I love when he gets conceptual and weird and funny. I would never want him to go back to that vintage redux he used to do before he started doing big shows back in 2006- however, what I do miss is that I think he’s lost touch how women want to dress.

His best collections - even at their most outlandish - were always in some way a real proposition of how someone could change their style. Why not incorporate a pilgrim shoe into your wardrobe? Why not style a Victorian blouse with a pair of jeans? Why not mix sequins with a frumpy sweater? Why not wear your silk pajamas out with some heels?

But these new off-calendar shows don’t give me that same feeling. They might look good - but they don’t say anything.

In a way though, I don’t blame him. The culture is so convoluted and chaotic, it’s tough out there to know where to go or what to say. And it’s tough because is anyone even really listening, anyway?

Agree with all of this. Honestly, I'm hoping current designers will start to look to Marc's 2006-2014 collections for "inspiration." Some were much better than others, but the clothes were almost always cool and luxe and the shows were unexpected and fun. Gosh we really need that excitement in fashion again...enough of the irony-poisoned edginess. Marc's approach has always been playful yet totally sincere.

I still go back to Marc's F/W 2020 show, right before COVID hit. It felt like a return to something, but at the same time quite fresh. This collection feels more promising than anything, but doesn't quite hit the mark.

 

[Cocteau Stone]

I think this collection is trying a tad too hard for it to really hit it off in a grand or significant way. It does make me wonder if it warrants or deserves the off calendar presentation. It really shouldn't be a concern, because it is great to have Marc still in the business of fashion especially creatively. I just look at this and think having during NYFW would do a whole load of good for the both of them.

NYFW is pretty crap, but that's kind of good for the likes of Marc because it would give this a chance to really stand out as something of worth among all the other designers. Plus it would help add a little more credibility to the New York/American designers because they really haven't been faring well besides the mainstays.

Anyways, I enjoy the sequins/paillettes towards the end. With the wiggetry it felt very 60s Diana Ross/The Supremes. The peacoats and knits are gorgeous too.

In the end, the designer refs are too obvious for my liking, and aren't reworked enough to make it more Marc Jacobs. There is still something classic bourgeois about this though that does work, and that really comes down to the very astute fabric choices. Just needs a touch more grit with the wit I think. All too moodboardy and cutesy (at times, that approach is very Marc though).

 

[Lola701]

You killed it with mentioning Sofia as the ultimate Marc Girl. So right!

For me, Sofia is a real definition of a fashion icon and in a way the ultimate Marc Jacobs woman because she totally embodies the spirit of Marc. Even if she wears more Chanel than Marc Jacobs, she has that classic but yet anti conformist spirit.

Everytime you see her, even when she is borrowing an outfit for the Redcarpet, you always feel like she is wearing her own clothes.

She is so classic in a way that she stands out in her environment.
Look at her in Hollywood. You won’t see her in a mermaid gown. She went to Cannes, everybody was on a gown, she wore a Chanel black suit.
She would wear a cocktail dress to a Redcarpet event, a printed dress at a black tie event.

And there’s this surprising thing about her style. I’ve seen photos of her in Alaia, in Dior by Galliano, in Louis Vuitton by Ghesquière, in Lanvin by Elbaz, in Helmut Lang…Names you wouldn’t associate with her style but she made it work!
I adore her style and her very luxurious down to earth allure. There’s this primness but it’s not conservative….

Now I wonder why they have never collaborated at the Marc Jacobs brand. Their Vuitton collaboration was perfect on the bags, she can help in redesign those dated MJ bags they are trying to make happen again.

 

[Not Plain Jane]

It has that creepy uncanny aspect that dolls do, and it strongly recalls Cindy Sherman's art. Jacobs recently featured her in his advertising, so I don't think the connection is far off.

In terms of success, the sweaters and evening wear are best - along with the empire-waist jackets. It's not my favourite collection of MJ's but I adore that it has us all talking.

 

[Phuel]

This is frustrating, even infuriating. Because stripped off its tricksies (to further elaborate on @lookatme's peeve for tricks), it’s brimming with classic Marc signatures that looks and feels so right to rage against the outlet/fastfashion/drag queen sensibilities that's plagued high fashion— and could’ve/would’ve/should’ve been a strong followup to his supremely pragmatic and still equally theatrical A/W 2020 offering. Maybe even stronger had it not been gimmick-ridden from start to finish, but once on teh racks of Bergdorf, I’m sure the offerings will be revised to the appropriate silhouettes, instead of this desperate clcikbaiting. Can’t help but be suspicious that he altered parts of the offering last minute when he saw the stunning Galliano’s Margiela vision. The wide-hips, some silly clickbait XXXL-proportions of some the shorts, and the even sillier walks some of the women had to walk in just screams last-minute tricksies, because— just so the slowest of teh slow didn’t get that it’s inspired by paperdolls...

Marc at his best was always as the Andy Warhol of fashion; seamlessly mixing the the American rebel and the old-money of European bourgeoisie. He was never a visionary innovator, but a— as Lola’s reminded, a fashion-DJ— and a superior one at that. There are so many great, classic fashion iconography offered throughout this collection, and classic Marc Jacobs at that. Had he actually fashion-remixed for his version of The Factory, with a good balance of costume-y tricks and gimmicks, alongside more refined and tailored silhouettes to entice and remind the clientele why he made Vuitton so sumptuous, then this would be a worthwhile RTW sister to Galliano’s Margiela HC. As it stands the way it is… it’s such a flatly 2D Rei-wannabe cartoon.

 

[disco54]

I liked it but not floored by it but I always appreciate how makes it emotional and cinematic. I think he is in this best form when he does slinky 40s/70s infused fashion , his seedy Taxi Driver inspired collection captured that very well.
I think such clothes would resonate very much with new gen Z clients than this collection which veers too much into costumey and cartoonish but lacks the refinement of the way Rei approached it.




The hair and make up in this collection reminds of the drag ballroom scene of the late 60s

 

[RaisinBoy]

Is Marc still at Vuitton?!!

 

[LadyJunon]

Is Marc still at Vuitton?!!

No, they've got the guy from Balenciaga now.

 

[WAVES]

it’s referential but it’s uniquely him and to have this ability is to have real talent. I loved it.