Marni F/W 2024.25 Milan

[bc collector]

I stopped commenting on Risso a while ago, I thought my despise for his work was reaching levels hard to express in words.

But then I saw this and thought: what was the point?
I mean, we all know that Marni - as we knew (and loved) it - is no more.
But at least, if you are really making the effort to bury the old Marni with all your guts, do it with purpose and a clear vision. Does anyone of you know what Risso, in terms of style, stand for? Is it distinctive enough? Can you spot someone on the street and say: look, they are surely wearing Marni! It used to be possible to do that under Castiglioni's tenure, but now? What's left, apart from some generic, Comme-derivative weirdness for the sake of it? Is it moving the needle? I don't think so.

There should be a special place in hell for all those who made this possible.

 

[disco54]

Utter trash, all this needs to be put in a pile and doused in gasoline and burnt

 

[Jacque Marcel]

Remember Marni's H&M collection? Those were the good old days.

 

[LadyJunon]

I like this collection, although it's hard to see what to actually buy. Fashion is in such a strange place, everything is either soulless and corporate or costumes for a movie I'm not sure I want to see. When did Fashion stop being relevant for those who want to see new and exciting propositions of what to wear? When did Fashion start being weird for the sake of it?

Personally, I think that it's because of the rise of streetwear and normcore throughout the 10s. So, now every young designer is trying to "rebel" against that by making the most unapproachable collections ever. The issue is that they act like they're the avant-gardists of the 80s and 90s.

 

[Deleted member 141309]

If Cavalli, Comme des Garçons, Rick Owens and Gareth Pugh had an orgy.

 

[IloveDiorHomme]

Risso’s vision is VERY artistic and conceptual. Unlike Consuelo who was dedicated to create a « real » wardrobe.
I can understand some people can’t connect with his vision because it’s meant to be appreciated by everyone.
Some austere looks are beautiful. It’s a very rough yet poetic collection.
Not generic at all!

 

[Lola701]

Risso’s vision is VERY artistic and conceptual. Unlike Consuelo who was dedicated to create a « real » wardrobe.
I can understand some people can’t connect with his vision because it’s meant to be appreciated by everyone.
Some austere looks are beautiful. It’s a very rough yet poetic collection.
Not generic at all!

So why not try to fuse his artistic and conceptual vision with the spirit of the founder. Are we going to act like Consuelo was doing boring clothes? Her work had an immense artistic value…

What is happening at Marni, Jil Sander and in a lesser way at Margiela really angers me. It’s like a total dismiss of the work, a part of life of someone.

 

[Lorenzogi]

The most apposite Marni review (preview?) i have come across, ahead of its time 😆:
https://www.instagram.com/p/C3289DxqG93/?igsh=aHB6enJxaXlwNHl3

 

[jeremydante]

This felt like Marni's take on Margiela, no?
I had to double check the video title/account when I watched the show on YT. Marni has had its kitchy lil moments, but has never had much of an identity beyond that oddity, or use of 70's style color palette. This felt more modern, but didn't feel like Marni. And that's the sad part about some labels, when they cave under the pressure of market demand, instead of giving what fashion enthusiasts want; which is thoughtful concepts and good design.

Not entirely bad, but also not impressive.