Martin Grant S/S 06 Paris

[travolta]

i think zamb have a good point about execution. i think these clothes are like a well-designed machine... no frills and no pains. in a way execution is EVERYTHING... almost like strings on a marionette... it changes the way you hold yourself and the way you move. in a way it's the feeling of the garment, not the exterior that makes the difference to the wearer.

 

[Elli]

I looved this collection. the short leather jacket, the black dress with douple straps, and the skirts together with the jackets, perfect width and length, color, everything ...

 

[softgrey]

johnny...
ta-ta has espressed it for me to an extent...
what i always see with elbaz is that he takes what is classic and twists it and tears it slightly...
he almosts 'releases' the wearer from the structure of the garment...

which i think is precisely the opposite of what grant does here...
grant almosts 'restricts' the wearer...
as someone said...
these clothes might actually make you change your posture...
and stand up straighter...

clavdia...i believe louboutin does the shoes for him...
but i couldn't swear to it...

bop-controlled is the exact word i would use for this collection...

scott-whatever the reason...i think it is a stunning collection and grant is certainly worthy of your respect-which i know you do not give lightly...

 

[Johnny]

johnny...
ta-ta has espressed it for me to an extent...
what i always see with elbaz is that he takes what is classic and twists it and tears it slightly...
he almosts 'releases' the wearer from the structure of the garment...

which i think is precisely the opposite of what grant does here...
grant almosts 'restricts' the wearer...
as someone said...
these clothes might actually make you change your posture...
and stand up straighter...

Thanks interesting. I can see how they're different, and I prefer Lanvin since this is perhaps a little too straight down the line. Very pretty though, and as others have said, interesting by virtue of the fact that it's not trying to do anything particularly clever or conceptual or based on dinosaurs (!)

 

[softgrey]

...

i like a little of each myself...
sort of a fashion antipasto..

 

[clavdiachauchat]

johnny...
ta-ta has espressed it for me to an extent...
what i always see with elbaz is that he takes what is classic and twists it and tears it slightly...
he almosts 'releases' the wearer from the structure of the garment...

which i think is precisely the opposite of what grant does here...
grant almosts 'restricts' the wearer...
as someone said...
these clothes might actually make you change your posture...
and stand up straighter...

clavdia...i believe louboutin does the shoes for him...
but i couldn't swear to it...

bop-controlled is the exact word i would use for this collection...

scott-whatever the reason...i think it is a stunning collection and grant is certainly worthy of your respect-which i know you do not give lightly...

Thanks for the info!

 

[Curious]

I'd wear any of this in a second! Lovely!!

 

[Estella*]

i very much agree with the notion that this is very controlled.
i really don't know wether i like it or not. cuts and colours impress me but do not speak to me...

 

[adorefaith]

i like it.....
very chic.....classic, definitely....
the pleats in the skirts and dresses are particularly lovely...

these fabrics look so 'tough' and yet the outfits are so feminine....
its a great contrast.....
it looks like beautiful quality....

 

[susie_bubble]

It surprise myself by liking this...because I'm usually attracted to the innovative, the slightly strange, the quirky, the cute...etc. But as I'm growing older, I realise that attention to fit, cutting and meticulous execution is worth a lot more than just pure innovation. There are designers whose qualities I love purely aethestically, there are those whose sheer wearability I admire. This falls into that category. It has exceeded the criteria though by not only being very wearable and easy to integrate with my wardrobe....but also being very classic expressing that classic quality well.

 

[Scott]

^susie,you just described me as well.

but no,I can appreciate even the utter simplistic(like with Branquinho-she's not overly innovative either,remember)as long as its got a wonderful spirit about it.

 

[helena]

You know, some of the pieces really do almost take my breath away, because they're just so perfect. The aforementioned dress ... the coat with the open neck. I do think this is great design, and the fact that some people aren't seeing it to me is almost evidence of that--and probably (although I don't know anything about him) of the humility of the designer. He doesn't need to say--Look at me! My star is rising, ooh, ooooh, look what I can do! Instead he just makes this perfectly beautiful little collection. Again, the kind of minimalism I like. You aren't toting the designer and his ego around on your back, the message is all yours.

I agree with Scott's Alber Elbaz comparison, one that came to my mind too, although this is certainly distinct. Now if everyone were doing this, maybe it would be boring. But since no one is, it is anything but.

TOTALLY agree with you fashionista-ta....great post.

 

[Lena]

He has a beautiful work ethic and clothes that seem to allow a woman precision and control in how she appears to others. To me, that was most apparent, the premise of control, precision, to be able to stop on a dime like any good car. This was pure formalism, who needs emotion when emotions get out of control?
Not every designer has to be about innovation...but there has to be a life blood, a certain excitement, dialect, dialogue between the designer and his creations. He, perhaps, is not at the financial level yet to begin to take risks, express different sides of himself. These are clothes that will sell and will help him to fight another day.

he's obviously not interested in innovation his work is based on details and on the needs of his very faithfull clientelle.
he's been around enough to be financially able to take risks, his risk is investing in the impecable technique of some of the best -and most expensive- ateliers in paris.
i'm not of the 'innovation' for the 'shake of innovation' school
respecting one's clients is producing honest, well made clothes.. its not running the 'i'm more innovative than you' race.

the similarity with Elbaz?
Yes, they are both classicists and they respect their client like so very few do in our days.. sets them on a different level with most of the 'innovative' designers out there


having said all that, it may be banal to declare i adore this collection..
i could wear every single piece and enjoy it for seasons .. and seasons to come..
(well worth the money )

 

[zamb]

"all who nuh like clothes whe mek good a eediat" (patios-Jamaican Dialect)
anyone who cannot appreciate well made clothes is an idiot (english translation)

i know what is is to make good clothes, thats what i strive for, every morning i get up and sit around my sewing machine i strive for beauty and perfection. i know my technique is better than many and i can say without reservation Mr. Grants work is superior to mine in fit and execution. i hope to one day get to his level.
to tell you the truth, a lot of ppl we consider innovative are ppl who dream to be able to do what he does, and because they can't they hide behind ridiculous shapes that no one can understand and gaudy embellishments,pretending to be avant garde.
different ppl enter the industry for different reasons and have different perspective about clothing thus they work differently.Mr. grant seems to be interested in dressing real ppl who want to look classy, elegant and youthful with a conservative spirit. While this is not my style, i am wise enough to know that there are more women who are willing to wear this than clothing from many designers who are held in higher regard than he is.

many ppl are comparing him to Mr. Elbaz,while i do see a certain similarity in thier work, i am moving a motion to anoint Mr. Grant as the new Alaia (not in terms of sexiness and cling but in respect to his commitment to fit and quality)
well done Mr. Grant may God bless you Richly with success...........

 

[LibertyRose]

Big fat yawn. Simplicity has never looked so boring. It seems like that Martin Grant makes the same clothes season after season without reflection of changing times.

And I don't even think these are the most well-tailored or elegant clothes I've seen. I think I hate it especially this season because the combination of a sundress and hairbands is so fake vintage and makes the wearer look dumb.

 

[peacelover142002]

i love it - especially some of the dresses. very classic and chic.

 

[Lena]

to tell you the truth, a lot of ppl we consider innovative are ppl who dream to be able to do what he does, and because they can't they hide behind ridiculous shapes that no one can understand and gaudy embellishments,pretending to be avant garde.
...........

totally on point dear zamb..

btw, he sells REAL BIG in the US
i've been to his first ever 'show' it was totally packed with New Yorks hottest buyers

 

[battles]

very, very nice i must say. i'm in love with this collection. thanks scott, to be honest i've never bothered to check out his works before and this is really a surprise.

 

[Zazie]

Take music as an analogy. You have amazing musicians like Horowitz or Gould who play beautifully and even innovatively by creating new techniques with the piano, but they are not composers in the same way as Stravinsky or Beethoven. In fact, they play the compositions of these masters. It is only when they come out with their own original pieces that are different from others that they can be called composers. This still makes Horowitz a legendery piano player, though he isn't a composer, i.e., he doesn't design music, he plays it.

Of course there are good and bad composers, just as there are good and bad designers.

It's the same with Grant. You can say he is an amazing tailor with fantastic technique, but he isn't a designer, the way Chanel, CD, Mary Quant, etc. are designers. It doesn't diminish his talents in any way, though.

 

[urd]

uu I like what I see a lot.

it's so elegant and not boring at all!
I like the headpands too though I think they looked better on Prada