Michael Kors: Michael Kors has a long-standing Ali MacGraw fixation, partly because her style was her own and not the painted-on stroke of a stylist. "She once told me," Kors said before his show, "that when she put that cap on and went out, she had no idea she'd start a frenzy." It's exactly that kind of polished, casual chic that Kors has made his professional raison d'être. After 25 years in the business, he still revels in the great classics of American sportswear, so much so that at this point he classifies some — cabled sweaters, peacoats, tartans and plaids — as "Michael Kors-isms."
The collection he showed for fall featured all of those elements in full force, with references that spanned from the Jazz Age through the Ali-esque Seventies. And indeed most of it was turf he has covered before, which made for some quiet going. That said, there were still lots of great clothes. Kors is one of many designers this season embracing cold-weather fabrics — meltons, lodens, wool plaids, brocades and oodles of cashmere, but his is bulk-free coziness, lest one of his girls be mistaken for chubby. Thus, big sweaters went over skinny tops and languid skirts. In the collection's biggest news, these, along with a stretched-out rugby knit dress, sometimes reached the floor, which may be too retro a day concept for Kors' customer. But no matter, because she can choose from any number of alternatives, including lovely dresses of varying lengths, some with a flapper attitude, and one camel knit charmer accessorized with an argyle handbag and matching kneesocks. As for the mixes, there were appealing pairings of meaty outwear over sweaters with wide pants or walking shorts.
Kors kept evening relatively low-key, favoring the play of sparkles on black dresses with crystal sprays and a cashmere twinset over pleats peppered with paillettes. Just because she's dressing down doesn't mean a girl can't sparkle plenty.