Missoni S/S 2025 Milan

I never paid attention to his resume beyond the fact that he worked at Givenchy and Burberry under Riccardo.

He actually started his career at Margiela, under Martin and after from 2005 to 2013. Then he went to Hermes.

This is a heavy weight!
And that explain his versatility.

The multi pleats 3d layers and graphic cold and empty artyness remind me of Pieters last 2 collection for ALAIA
But Fillipo better than Pieter ????!!!!!!no no no Pieter has at least pretense of some refinement in design or attempts of it.....this Missoni guy design´s are just child like.
Sorry i don't see any of the mentioned qualities for the brand Missoni or for any brand as a matter of fact.

Its ok really i don't like any of it Zero next show i will avoid open the threads its on my no need to see list now.
I’m gracefully agree to disagree. Pieter Muller can’t compete with Grazioli. He maybe has a better position but that’s it.
 
As far as I could remember, this is probably the best Missoni collection in a long time. Some of the looks with fringes and ruffles are done so right that you forget they are from the stale Missoni brand. I think the designer has great potential if he is going to do Chole with lighter fabric instead of being limited by the knitwear code.
 
This is a heavy weight!
And that explain his versatility.

That is really a great resume! And his works speaks for itself. Never seen any pretentious interviews.

Im a bit confused by the set but to have such a empty and ugly set and still have one of the best shows in milan...
 
Im a bit confused by the set but to have such a empty and ugly set and still have one of the best shows in milan...
That’s why I wonder if the Missoni are actually really investing in his Vision.
Because Missoni has always been marketed as a resort wear kind of brand. And I don’t think that except for Milan and NYC it’s not really sold like that in fashion cities.
I think even a little corner in Paris wouldn’t hurt.

Because the man was the head designer for the womenswear RTW collection at Margiela so he can do more. Blazy was only responsible for the Artisanal.

When you look at the Margiela collections from 2007 to 2013, you see some touches in his Missoni.

I find it fascinating that someone who worked with a relative neutral palette most of his career can do such a flip and be so at ease with Missoni.

It’s refreshing to see something that go against the narrative around designers doing the same thing over and over again.
It’s good to see someone use the heritage of a house that seems totally different from his core aesthetic to explore new things.
 
I never paid attention to his resume beyond the fact that he worked at Givenchy and Burberry under Riccardo.

He actually started his career at Margiela, under Martin and after from 2005 to 2013. Then he went to Hermes.

This is a heavy weight!
And that explain his versatility.


I’m gracefully agree to disagree. Pieter Muller can’t compete with Grazioli. He maybe has a better position but that’s it.


Not aware of his cool resume i have to say i expect more from him but then again it's not for me and its ok like you said
gracefully agree to disagree.....yes this always Lola i appreciate you.
 
There’s some really strong pieces in here. The opening look is very well proportioned for such an experimental shape. What I’m missing here is perhaps the spirit in color selection. This feels more issey miyake then missoni. It’s not a bad thing, but these graphic colors render the collection more sterile. That red for instance would have worked better if it was slightly more coral and the white more cream. Missoni just feels a bit more 70s and lived in. Maybe a sexy campaign can contextualise this more.
 
a fun take on tradition, although i wouldn't wear most of this...

a big huge NO to those face covers, even in a show.
 
Love it! Still sticks to the brand DNA while keeping it fresh.
 
People have always slept on Missoni. I’ve seen good collections from them before, maybe poorly styled, but great nonetheless.

This is pure fashion, loved it!
 
Materials used for the face coverings should have been applied to other or new looks to tie some things together.

It's fun and bold though! At first I grimaced because I was like "why?" because of the saturation of bold patterns and zig zags which feels a bit played out, but looking further it actually is a beautiful collection. Prefer this to his earlier pastel iterations too. Now this show space... not great. So grim and I think that's why I didn't like this at first.
 
This really expanded the Missoni universe in an unexpected way.
Missoni as a label has always stayed in its lane and rode their family legacy at even kilter; loved this approach.
 
IMG_9446.jpeg
Can’t find a more specific place for this than here, especially after such a well-received collection.

“In an exclusive interview, Livio Proli, chief executive officer of the Italian brand, confirmed the "amicable and consensual parting at the end of Filippo's mandate." Grazioli joined Missoni in 2022 and his last show was held for spring 2025 on Sept. 20 in Milan.

Proli said the designer will be succeeded by Alberto Caliri. His first collection will bow for pre-fall.”

WWD
 
Weird, specially after a well received collection, my guess is that it was already decided before. Alberto Caliri has been in the brand forever ….so maybe we could expect old classic Missoni collections…

Someone can share the full interview?
 

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