Contents
NO 09 SPRING/SUMMER 2009 CRAFT
The Bodybuilder
Tailor of Heavenly Curves
But when it comes to contouring a stunning female figure most advantageously, it is not only zippers that respond to Alaïa’s masterly touch. In addition to cleverly placed tucks and darts, he achieves his effects with a firm stretch jersey of his own design. The fabric appears to obey his every command.
Text & Photography Brigitte R. Winkler
Shoplifter
Her works range from the artfully braided hair headdress featured on the cover of Björk’s Medúlla to room-sized artworks made of multi-colored synthetic hair, most recently seen in a collaborative exhibition with the art collective a. v. a. f. (assume vivid astro focus) in the windows of the Museum of Modern Art, New York.
Interview Claus Richter
Photography Inez van Lamsweerde & Vinoodh Matadin, Sprague Hollander
Sandra Backlund
With Mighty Needles
Sandra Backlund learned how to knit as a child, so none of this is new to her: ribbing, braiding, bobbles, purls, meshwork and netting, she can do it all at the flick of a wrist. These are the same traditional patterns used by sailors’ and fishermen’s wives on the Baltic Sea to make sweaters for their seafaring men, each family with its own distinctive note.
Text Catrin Lorch
Photography Ward Janssen & Jaap Scheeren
Dream Machine
Photography Frederik Heyman
Lamentations on the Rag Trade
Beautiful clothing is a luxury, as is air travel and fancy cars. Nothing against all that, but no one has the deed to the promises of the consumer lifestyle. And how could they? Wouldn’t it be a more beautiful, hipper and “alive” life-style if good work, the effort is takes and the quality it brings, were truly appreciated?
Text Oliver Tepel
Meta-Fashion
The suit transcends fashion while remaining a part of it
The formal evolution of the suit over the course of the 20th century could be called transformation-at-a-standstill; proportions and materials changed, but the basic construction principle was not called into question.
Text Volker Orthmann
Expanded Fashion
Maison Martin Margiela
The mastery of Maison Martin Margiela is evidenced by the way the fashion repertoire – clothing, shoes, and also handbags – is deconstructed into material and manufacturing, history and utility.
Text Brigitte Felderer
Photography Anders Edstrom, Marina Faust, Ronald Stoops, Jacques Habbah
For Always, Please!
Herr Abeler left nothing to chance. His shop window displays were among the most exquisite in town, and those of other jewelers – whether Cartier, Bulgari or Wempe – seemed common and uninspired in comparison.
Text Katharina Koppenwallner
if you can't get hold of this in shop,american apparel carries it through their on-line shop.
*modedepesche.de
Illustration Andy Scherpereel
