Having peaked with several stellar to excellent signature collections, Narciso Rodriguez is branching out. The designs are still architectual, minimalist, and beautiful, but Rodriguez is interpreting femininity in a different light. He tried ruffles and champange colors in FW04, and this Babydoll collection takes things one step further.
He is my favorite designer (that dress on the late Carolyn Bassette Kennedy was what got me into fashion) but, frankly, I don't like this directional change. It's not that I miss his signature, sharp, unforgiving cut--I welcome change so long as it brings something good, but the new stuff simply don't look that great. Yes, the volume and floaty-ness of that last dress on Natasha Poly is beautiful, but an empire waist is hardly flattering on most body types. I feel that by exploring new design possibilities, Narciso has forgone what was central to his design. The clothes were not meant to flatter the body anymore. Furthermore, his black ensembles are getting boring. And gowns with pockets? He is hardly the first one to try that.
My favorites (just four looks!
Still, the heels are incredible. Strappy & high, in graphic black or white = my cup of tea.