No. 21 S/S 2023 Milan

[vogue28]

VOGUE.COM

 

[vogue28]

VOGUE.COM

 

[Koibito]

He does Prada better than Prada.

 

[helmutnotdead]

first show of the season that makes me feel something. It seems like he called back Suzanne…

 

[thiago:)]

Casting is fabulous (Hannelore, Tasha, Luca... many experienced models)), but it feels very deja vu indeed.

 

[Phuel]

HIs most casual offering. And it works. The lace/lace print on synthetic and the simple, classic knee-length bodycon dresses and the opening scarlet suit are the best. It’s all very late-90s Helmut Lang/Jean Colonna/Daryl K unfussy dressing. I’ll take it.

(Unfortunate that it's dragged down by the silly styling— especially the mismatching buttonholes that absolutely ruins the opening look.)

 

[WAVES]

what in the Prada is going on here???

 

[Lola701]

Very Prada after dark but in the end, no real desirable piece…
Very gimmicky.

 

[Blanche DuBois]

I like it! The casting is superb!! Luca inga georgina! Not sure why they love so much Black in summer...but it looks good!

 

[jeanclaude]

For a moment I thought D&G brand was back again...

 

[Avonlea]

Divine. He always delivers. One of the very few italian designers who still have it.

 

[andrew]

this dude doesn't miss.

 

[Cocteau Stone]

I like this a lot, mainly because I see what I miss in the brands that this collection alludes to. Love the casting as well, they pull off that undone allure which is something this current crop of models couldn't do.

Now the buttoning up just pisses me off though. If they were constructed pattern wise to sit that way it would have worked (it isn't that hard to do), but this is as grating as Demna's styling tricks at Balenciaga where most garments aren't actually made that way, just annoyingly styled.

 

[perhydrol]

I love this collection. The styling could have been less gimmicky, but still I really appreciate that he went to his own archives for the inspiration. I can also see the purpose of these clothes, and that's already an achievement.

 

[YohjiAddict]

It feels right on trend with the new Prada collection but infinitely more wearable. I like it, I think it’s truly sexy and rarely tacky. The floral mini-dress with gathering on the skirt and an asymmetrical hem is right on the border, I love it.

The casting was wonderful.