Off-White F/W 2018.19. Paris

[YohjiAddict]

Those people mentioned in that article deserve nothing but this crap, they clearly lack any and all judgement if they think highly of this very mediocre man that just lives off cheap hype. This is just not worth the attention, any attention, this is a joke that's gone too far. Helmut Lang meets Alexandre Vauthier on Valium would be my way of describing this mess...My mind can't comprehend what kind of woman could be interested in wearing any of these, in part because of the poor finish in part because I'm astonished at how incoherent each look is from one another and yet how little is being proposed.

 

[Fashionstuff]

"Off" is the key word here.

You nailed it!

 

[Nomar]

Such a clumsy and messy collection. He doesn't deserve a spot at PFW.

 

[liberty33r1b]

god do we really need this mess

 

[Marc10]

Look, I understand the aversion that many here feel towards this brand. And I also understand that if you judge it with the same rule as Dries or Loewe it is indeed a weak collection. But the truth is, Off-White and Virgil have a place in the industry, and a very real one. He connects with a specific audience the same way Rick Owens does, and today that audience is far wider and relevant than most of the brands we love. I honestly have far more respect for him than Maria Grazia or Vaccarello, because his brand and ethos are far more authentic to him and his audience.

That being said, I do have a problem the way his taking the womenswear lately. I get that hes trying to elevate the design level, and in theory that's a very good, the way he's doing it feels wrong and unnecessary. I read one of the reviews saying the tule dresses feels like the Off-White girls trying to be something she's not, and totally agree with it. He can raise the level, but still keep it real with what the brand stands for which is streetwear/sportswear. It doesn't need grand gestures of high fashion, because every knows that's not really something he's skilled at. The menswear is perfect and I hope the womenswear would follow that same path.

 

[YohjiAddict]

^I honestly didn't even know what these brand was about till the hype of his women's shows made them difficult to ignore. I'm judging purely based on his womenswear offering, that I've been paying attention for like three seasons, based on that I can say that he has absolutely no business presenting in Paris since he's got zero vision of what a high-end womenswear line should be and even less skill at presenting it. Why does he deserve a place for which he doesn't have the capabilities? Couldn't he simply build on what he's actually good at?

 

[Phuel]

^^^ I suspect it’s all presented as his CV to any venerable House that may be interested in snatching him up before his hype deflates. Can’t fault him for thinking ahead before them kidz will tire of his hoodies and backpacks soon enough. Street label clout never has a long shelf-life.

This is all much more directional than his preFall offering-- which resembled the sort of "collection" a department-store house-brand would offer. His mix of stuffy, proper Lady-of-the-Manor porcelain cup-prints and ottoman-tapestries mixed with workout gear is at least entertaining to look at. It all still reeks of first-draft ideation, and I’d advice him to hire more experienced tailors if he’s ambitiously going beyond boxy-cut sweats and hoodies, and into refined tailoring. If your repository of concepts is rather thin, at least compensate with impressive tailoring so that Bella won’t look so glum modelling your gear. I sort of see the Lutz-direction of where he may want to be headed— and clearly he’s got some ways to go since Lutz’s brand of wearable surrealsim is no small feat to take on… at least he’s not eating Phoebe’s dust, like so many are doing…

Nice color-plaette at least.

 

[Marc10]

^I honestly didn't even know what these brand was about till the hype of his women's shows made them difficult to ignore. I'm judging purely based on his womenswear offering, that I've been paying attention for like three seasons, based on that I can say that he has absolutely no business presenting in Paris since he's got zero vision of what a high-end womenswear line should be and even less skill at presenting it. Why does he deserve a place for which he doesn't have the capabilities? Couldn't he simply build on what he's actually good at?

Well I think he's showing in Paris just fr the sake of showing on PFW, the "I made it in fashion" and whatever subversive message that brings. Off-White is a menswear brand, the menswear line is pretty strong and convincing because it does what he does best: elevated streetwear. It has an authority unlike all these other brands trying to ride on the wave. The womenswear however doesn't have that cause he seems to be seeking a "fashion" approach, maybe because he couldn't build the womenswear with the same menswear ethos, and maybe he's trying to prove to himself and the rest that he's a real designer. Either way it doesn't have the same appeal. But to be honest, this is far from the worst in Paris this wek.