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nytimesAt 12:30 p.m., half an hour after the doors opened at the Ohne Titel show and moments after a curtain was dropped at the entrance, the curtain reopened to admit Olivier Zahm, the editor of Purple magazine, who was still trying to stuff change from a cab ride back into his too-tight jeans as the show began. Make no mistake, Fashion Week is not only about the shows at Lincoln Center, as editors have had to hustle their ways uptown, downtown and crosstown — and this was only day three, at a far-off place convenient only to the entrance of the Lincoln Tunnel.
By the way, both Mr. Zahm and an associate were wearing madras shirts. Trend forecasters, take note.
Ikram Goldman, the Chicago retailer, is renting an apartment all the way over at Sutton Place, so it was impressive that she had managed several appointments in the morning, and, sitting next to me at the show, she was explaining the importance of Ohne Titel, the label of designers Alexa Adams and Flora Gill.
“They make a great jacket that is narrow in the sleeve, but not too Rick Owens-y,” she said. “It’s more feminine.”
The spring collection, inspired by the Japanese woodblock artist Utagawa Kuniyoshi, included a lot of tank tops made like scuba wet suits and tight knit sweater dresses, in white or navy, with pleated skirts. A few editors were troubled by how much a white dress looked like one by Azzedine Alaïa, but a designer can have worse idols. Ms. Goldman seemed to love the whole thing.
“I loved the dresses,” she said. “I loved the colors. I loved the knits with the pleated skirts. I loved the necklaces …” and then she was headed off in the direction of backstage to tell the designers so.