Olivier Theyskens F/W 2019.20 Paris

[vogue28]

VOGUE.COM

 

[vogue28]

VOGUE.COM

 

[tricotineacetat]

Can we please agree that this is the kind of collection everybody was hoping Olivier to deliver since reviving his namesake label? I think he did really beautifully on the big 1940ies shoulders with the more rounded pads he used, a better solution than to go full-on into a Mugler direction. I'm not surprised that he showed some of the best eveningwear so far but to have him deliver so much polish and refinement without the backing and resources of a storied couture house is a stupendous achievement. This looks a good step upwards from his previous collections.

 

[Machinegumm]

This makes me hopeful for his future collections. Only a few misses for me this time around, but overall he seems to be going in the right direction.

 

[RedSmokeRise]

Gorgeous

 

[IloveDiorHomme]

so elegant and it seems luxurious without being all over the place.

great collection.

 

[disco54]

So sleek and elegant

 

[mistress_f]

perhaps not groundbreaking, we know he can do better than this, but it's so classy, so elegant, so beautiful - and it's so hard to find these days

 

[dior_couture1245]

Wonderful!!

Completely agree with tricotineacetat that this is the best collection he’s shown since the relaunch. It feels that with this collection, he’s rediscovered his darker, more severe tendencies that are reminiscent of his very early years - before Theory, Ricci and Rochas. His relaunch collections up until this point have felt like an earnest search for his voice again...some have been too sweet, some have been too commercial, some have been too safe. This feels really bold but so restrained and controlled. He is so good.

The tailoring here is divine. There’s nothing like a jacket that pushes the body into a new, severe shape without a single pucker, drag line or buckling. That’s the kind of designing and make that’s worth getting excited over.

Only thing I’d have done without is the jewelry. Doesn’t add anything and looks a bit dated.

 

[AnaD]

Very elegant and sleek. Beautiful tailoring.

 

[GivenchyAddict]

Can we please agree that this is the kind of collection everybody was hoping Olivier to deliver since reviving his namesake label? I think he did really beautifully on the big 1940ies shoulders with the more rounded pads he used, a better solution than to go full-on into a Mugler direction. I'm not surprised that he showed some of the best eveningwear so far but to have him deliver so much polish and refinement without the backing and resources of a storied couture house is a stupendous achievement. This looks a good step upwards from his previous collections.

Honestly yes. Now i am absolutely happy about his come back if he keeps this direction !

 

[george5]

I agree with everyone here, definitely his best effort since He came back. Finally Olivier is distilling some French Couture savoir-faire again

I think all the designers who are at the helm of old Couture houses should take note on how to make that grandeur gesture but in a refined and sumptuous way, without making the models and potential customers look like They're drowning in thousands yards of fabric.

 

[Not Plain Jane]

sexy with some great gothic elements
that last victorian dress is really something!

 

[anlabe32]

Was just in the Balmain thread. My eyes really needed this after that. So elegant and beautiful.

 

[Lola701]

Finally!
Something strong, focused with no compromise. I really like this!
It’s glamorous, desirable and well made.
Some fabulous pants and the last 6 looks? Pure heaven!

My only criticism will be on the ivory satin and the tweed suits. There’s something weird about the length and the proportions in those looks.

And the cast! I used to love when models were supporting talented designers for free.
Those clothes needs women! Karelian Kurkova, Natalia, Raquel, Liya...etc!

Put the cast of Atlein in those clothes and suddenly, it takes you to another world!

 

[TheoG]

Really nice! It's sharp, well tailored, and it has a sense of control. And some of the best trousers I've seen all season.

 

[jeanclaude]

I can´t stand big shoulder pads, I am fed up of them.

The seams from this dress make me uneasy. It is a puckering festival here:

vogue.com

 

[Yohji]

Can we please agree that this is the kind of collection everybody was hoping Olivier to deliver since reviving his namesake label? I think he did really beautifully on the big 1940ies shoulders with the more rounded pads he used, a better solution than to go full-on into a Mugler direction. I'm not surprised that he showed some of the best eveningwear so far but to have him deliver so much polish and refinement without the backing and resources of a storied couture house is a stupendous achievement. This looks a good step upwards from his previous collections.

You took the words right out of my mouth!

 

[Fiercification]

This is truly his best collection at his namesake label, I really find everything elegant, sexy, classic. Amazing, simple but strong silhouettes. The red dress on Elise (so nice that she's here!) feels like a restrained throwback to Nina Ricci F/W 09.

The only thing is that I feel this collection won't get the attention it deserves, but hopefully I'm wrong. One of the best this season for me.

 

[HeatherAnne]

Womanly chic sex appeal = my favorite. Best collection of the season.