Olivier Theyskens vs. Rochas

[ilaughead]

i really wish that if he does go on and revive his own collection...he should stick to what he's doing at rochas
he will never go wrong if he does do it that way

Agreed. My favorite part of Rochas is, oddly, the pantsuits. The dresses may be what attracts all the attention, but the suits aren't common on the runway anymore, and they are extremely well done. I'd really like to see Olivier do more at his own label. However, if he continues the Rochas aesthetic, there'd be a lack of a brand identity.

I'm really divided on it. On one hand, people may not want a repeat of Rochas, on the other, his older designs aren't near as nice. (But the fall 2000 collection looks pretty darn good!) Let's just hope he has matured a lot while at Rochas.

And, this is even if he goes back to his own label. He may be picked up by another house!

 

[Pastry]

arturo21 and i just had a conversation about theyskens...

how great would it be, if theyskens went back to his own label..all the eperience at rochas did a lot for him. i don't think one would ever recognise olivier theyskens' line after this..

but here's what i would love..olivier theyskens for men.

and throw in a fragrance for good measure. arturo suggested it should not be a cheap one. definitely something creative and expensive.

 

[Bidwell]

Truth be told, if a house is going to throw all that money behind a line, it would certainly look better than his own signature line ever did. His shapes however were innovative and paved the way for Rochas.
I completely agree with Pastry- Theyskens Menswear, please.

 

[masquerade]

I like that his own stuff covers the spectrum. there are daytime clothes and there are gowns. what always bothered me about rochas was that everything seemed so black tie. i loved the gowns, dont get me wrong they are truely stunning, but there needs to be a balance

 

[ilaughead]

I don't think I want menswear from him. I'm sure it'd be really nice, but I think Balenciaga probably has a similar aesthetic to what Theyskens would have. And it'd be way to expensive for me, obviously.

 

[Spacemiu]

I always liked his own work more than Rochas, but I think it's true he has grown and I think it would be wonderful to see him bring some of the 'softer' side he explored at Rochas to his own line if he brings it back.

 

[tricotineacetat]

I think the times were totally different back then, some of these old collections still have that late 1990ies vibe around them, which is represented in that more minimalist, less decorated sense of styling. We won't ever know what it would have been like, had he found a solution to maintain his own business, but as far as I understand, it was his desire to explore a more classic, tasteful aspect of beauty (which he obviously tried to capture with Rochas). I bet his signature line would look entirely different these days, it's been shut down for five years now!

 

[Benzo]

Many thx for the pics! This is the 1st time I saw his own line. They look quite different, but at the same time, with his own essence.
I smell a sense of JPG & McQueen in his own line...

 

[Scott]

Well,in both,I like that Olivier was and will always be completely romantic. Theyskens collections were always a bit more severe,however. But once he got the gig at Rochas he allowed for a very softer and more fragile side to his personality. Actually,I think it was always there but in his signature work it was always in the detail...a bit subtle. The way he incorporated tea-stained fabrics,hooks and eyes and he was really interested in antique fabrics. But ultimately,after his experience at Rochas I think he'll continue to do something a bit more in tune with that aesthetic...but perhaps not quite commercial.

 

[JuiceMajor]

does anyone got a pic of the dress he make for madonna?

 

[BaroqueRockstar]

Agreed. My favorite part of Rochas is, oddly, the pantsuits. The dresses may be what attracts all the attention, but the suits aren't common on the runway anymore, and they are extremely well done. I'd really like to see Olivier do more at his own label. However, if he continues the Rochas aesthetic, there'd be a lack of a brand identity.

After i saw Rochas pantsuits, everyone's elses just seemed so not done well. that's definately what i'll miss the most . they're so flattering and the material is heaven!

 

[Jacque Marcel]

I like his Rochas collections better than his own. Especially his first Rochas collection because it had a salon couture type quality about it that was special.

 

[Scott]

^obviously some of you are merely judging by his latter collections...remember the amazing stuff the first few seasons when he just emerging? I hate to equate it with her but remember the stuff Madonna wore during her Goth phase? And most,if not all,was extremely one-of-a-kind and made to order...about as close to HC as one can get.

 

[Stavross]

I think many design houses are going to "fight" for him.

e.g Y.S.L and Givenchy

 

[kikidior]

^ i don't know. stefano's been doing so well at ysl and i love him and the house together. maybe it's relatively in the realm of possibility at givenchy but i also love what tisci's doing. i say he revive his own line (i think it'd be more refined, more focused and more mature).

 

[softgrey]

I think many design houses are going to "fight" for him.

e.g Y.S.L and Givenchy

seriously.....
why on EARTH would you think that YSL is looking for a new designer....


OR givenchy ...





....

 

[softgrey]

Truth be told, if a house is going to throw all that money behind a line, it would certainly look better than his own signature line ever did. His shapes however were innovative and paved the way for Rochas.

excellent point...



it IS interesting to compare the collections...partially for THAT very reason....
the P&G people obviously saw the potential in his own collections...
and he has matured trememdously as a designer ...
it's a sign of his great talent...he understood that he HAD to create an IMAGE for rochas that was PURE ROCHAS...
and he did it marvelously...

such a talent...
such a gift...
so rare...

 

[tricotineacetat]

That was still under Wella-ownership when Rochas decided to hire Olivier as the new designer for Rochas, as far as I remember correctly.

The circumstances under which he did his own label were obviously very different than at Rochas. It's without doubt that he had a very knowledged team behind him at Rochas, a vague friend of mine joined the team because he was an expert with flou/bias-cut construction, which was precisely by th e time when he introduced these less constructed, floor length gowns that have ever since been a staple for the house. Before, they only had the technical know-how for crinolined gowns and corsetry (an original Marcel Rochas trademark). It's all been pretty much in the way they used to have a traditional couture workshop, the way they worked at Rochas.

 

[Pastry]

^ and didn't you also say they had a guy who did a good sized portion of the f/w '05 show, because he was a tailor. i vaguely remember you telling me that he was responsible for the suiting...

 

[tricotineacetat]

I am really just wondering if Lieven (Rochas' uber-talented footwear/accessories/handbag designer) will keep on working with Olivier... he could totally be the next Pierre Hardy or Christian Louboutin... <3