Paris F/W 2004 Men's Wear Schedule

[ignitioned32]

From firstview.com

Friday January 23, 2004

2:30 pm Number Nine-Elysee Montmartre - 72 boulevard Rochechouart - 75018
3:30 pm Masatomo- Universite Rene Descartes - 12 rue de l'Ecole de Medecine - 75006
4:30 pm Philippe Dubuc - Galerie Topograpie de l'Art - 15 rue de Thorigny - 75003
5:30 pm Bernhard Willhelm - 59 rue de Charonne - 75011
6:30 pm John Galliano - Place to be announced
8:30 pm Thomas Engel Hart - Place to be announced

Saturday January 24, 2004

10:00 am Junya Watanabe Man - Place to be announced
11:00 am Pierre Henri Mattout- Place to be announced
12:00 pm Moritz Rogosky- Place to be announced
1:00 pm Armand Basi -Galerie Nikki Diana MArquardt - 9 place des Vosges - 75004
2:30 pm Gaspard Yurkievich- Place to be announced
3:30 pm Sonia Rykiel -Elysee Montmartre - 72 boulevard Rochechouart - 75018
4:30 pm Comme Des Garcons Homme Plus- Place to be announced
5:30 pm Yohji Yamamoto- Lycee Carnot - 145 boulevard Malesherbes - 75017
7:00 pm Louis Vuitton- Serre du Parc Andre Citroen - rue de la Montagne de la Fage - 75015
8:30 pm Dries Van Noten-Ecole Nationale Superieure des Beaux Arts - Chapelle des Petits Augustins - 14 rue Bonaparte - 75006
9:30 pm Raf Simons- Place to be announced


Sunday January 25, 2004

11:00 am Antonio Miro - Hotel Saint James & Albany - 202 rue de Rivoli - 75001
12:00 pm Paul & Joe- La Boitre Noire - 48 boulevard de Strasbourg - 75010
1:00 pm Helmut Lang -Espace Comines - 17 rue Commines - 75003
2:00 pm Wooyoungmi -Passage de Retz - 9 rue de Rivoli- 75001
3:00 pm Udo Edling -Carrousel du Lovre- Salle Soufflot - 99 rue de Rivoli - 75001
4:00 pm Ozwald Boateng- Hotel Intercontinental - 3 rue de castiglione - 75001
5:00 pm Paul Smith- Ecole Nationale Superieure des Beaux Arts - 14 rue Bonaparte - 75006
6:00 pm Dirk Schonberger -Ecole Nationale Superieure des Beaux Arts - Cours des Muriers - 75006
7:30 pm Hermes -Institut du Monde Arabe - 1 rue des Fosses Saint Bernard - Place Mohammed V - 75005
8:30 pm Xavier Delcour -Salle Wagram - 39 avenue de Wagram - 75017

Monday January 26, 2004

11:30 am Jean Charles de Castelbajac- Place to be announced
12:30 pm Masaki Matsushima-Place to be announced
1:30 pm Own- Place to be announced
2:30 pm Sebastian Meunier- Betc Euro Rscg 48 boulevard de Strasbourg - 75010
3:30 pm Stephan Schneider- Place to be announced
4:30 pm Jack Henry -Place to be announced
5:30 pm Francesco Smalto - Place to be announced
6:30 pm Sebastien D Rodriguez - Place to be announced
8:00 pm Christian Dior- Place to be announced
9:00 pm Yves Saint Laurent Rive Gauche - Place to be announced

 

[kit]

HI ALL

I , for one , am overjoyed to see Masaki Matsushima back !
Will he still be as quirky and experimental as before , or will he play more safe ?
I cannot wait for these new shows and the input given on TFS from those ' in the know ' !!! Thanks a million for the info , igni

Regards KIT

 

[Scott]

So,Xavier will be showing again.

I forgot about Mattout and Rogosky. I hope they do some good stuff

 

[kit]

HI again

According to the fashion press , eg Fashion Wire Daily et al , Sebastien D Rodriguez is the one to watch !!

I also have a soft spot for Sebastien Meunier .

Who are Number Nine , by the way ? ( If you will excuse my ignorance ) .

Yours KIT

 

[metal-on-metal]

I'm excited for Raf, Dries, Bernhard, Vuitton, Xavier, and Helmut!

 

[Lena]

i'm so looking forward to the mens shows

thanks for the scedule igni

 

[PrinceOfCats]

Is Dior Monsieur still made? Are Christian Dior and Dior Homme separate lines?

 

[kit]

Originally posted by PrinceOfCats@Jan 10th, 2004 - 4:24 pm
Is Dior Monsieur still made? Are Christian Dior and Dior Homme separate lines?

HI Prince of Cats

CHRISTIAN DIOR MONSIEUR died when LVMH sacked Patrick Lavoix and hired Hedi Slimane to completely revamp the menswear . Hedi DID at first design a more ' conventioal ' collection for Dior , sold at Avenue Montaigne and other high-end stores , which was on more generous proportions , for the male physique , but this secondary collection was discontinued after a couple of seasons and merged with the main DIOR HOMME collection .

CHRISTIAN DIOR MONSIEUR used to have shops in Spain and concessions in El Corte Ingles , the clothes made under licence in Spain , in the same way that CHRISTIAN DIOR MONSIEUR suits etc were made under licence in the UK by a Yorkshire tailoring firm , but this has long discontinued . I know that Christian Dior Monsieur was made for European and American markets by GFT in Italy , but DIOR HOMME have completely different manufacturers .

Hope I've been of help !

Regards KIT

 

[thomas28]

Number Nine is Japan fashion brand and it's the first time to go Paris for runway show~

 

[kit]

Thanks THOMAS28
You're a pal !!!

KIT B)

 

[Acid]

i want to see helmut lang.......i think im gonna cry

 

[PrinceOfCats]

¬_¬

 

[Acid]

Originally posted by PrinceOfCats@Jan 11th, 2004 - 6:29 pm

¬_¬

you know exactly what i meant

i wish i was there to see the mod.......show
anyone with a backstage pass

 

[Lena]

Originally posted by PrinceOfCats@Jan 11th, 2004 - 9:29 pm

¬_¬

j'adore Helmut, hes getting sweeter and sweeter

OT:
hope you've read HLang' interview at selfService acid, if not, its a must read B)

 

[metal-on-metal]

That selfservice interview was great. A must read!

 

[thomas28]

Originally posted by kit@Jan 11th, 2004 - 9:48 am
Thanks THOMAS28
You're a pal !!!

KIT B)

U are welcome~

 

[doo888]

Originally posted by kit+Jan 11th, 2004 - 4:13 am--><div class='quotetop'>QUOTE(kit @ Jan 11th, 2004 - 4:13 am)</div><div class='quotemain'> <!--QuoteBegin-PrinceOfCats@Jan 10th, 2004 - 4:24 pm
Is Dior Monsieur still made? Are Christian Dior and Dior Homme separate lines? 

HI Prince of Cats

CHRISTIAN DIOR MONSIEUR died when LVMH sacked Patrick Lavoix and hired Hedi Slimane to completely revamp the menswear . Hedi DID at first design a more ' conventioal ' collection for Dior , sold at Avenue Montaigne and other high-end stores , which was on more generous proportions , for the male physique , but this secondary collection was discontinued after a couple of seasons and merged with the main DIOR HOMME collection .

Hope I've been of help !

Regards KIT [/b][/quote]
Hedi's (and Dior Homme's) first collection was in Fall 2001 named Solitaire right after he left YSL Rive Gauche.

There was no secondary line/merging?! Dior Homme was something brand new after Monsieur was dropped.

What i dont understand is how Galliano's Dior clothing is made in France, whilst Dior Homme is made in Italy. The first 2 seasons of Dior Homme were made in France but they stopped...

 

[kit]

HI Doo888 Quote :-

" There was no secondary line/merging?! Dior Homme was something brand new after Monsieur was dropped. "

DIOR HOMME was absolutely new , as you say , and CHRISTIAN DIOR MONSIEUR died the death , along with Patrick Lavoix .
According , however , to Fashion Wire Daily Hedi DID design a more ' conservative ' collection when he first took over , in order to retain the more mature market , possibly .
Whether it actually went on sale , I am not sure , but I am certain that I remember the report on this in FWD . It was not a diffusion line , as I remember , but a more ' mature ' one , to go on sale in the Avenue Montaigne flagship .

If I am talking through my hat I apologise .

Quote:-
" What i dont understand is how Galliano's Dior clothing is made in France, whilst Dior Homme is made in Italy. The first 2 seasons of Dior Homme were made in France but they stopped... "

France is exceedingly expensive for manufacture and a lot of factories have closed eg Mendes Who used to make all the clothes for Yves Saint Laurent . Maybe with longer runs as the DIOR HOMME collection became more popular , LVMH had to look to Italian factories with more production capacity . There is another thread on this forum about Galliano's collection selling out and the fact that it could have been made in small runs . Could be the same situation as with Hedi's first collections .

Perhaps others here could put us right on these points .

Regards KIT

 

[pinkcouture]

I am really looking forward to the men's shows this year!! Thank you for posting the schedule!!

 

[kit]

Originally posted by kit@Jan 12th, 2004 - 12:48 pm
HI Doo888 Quote :-

" There was no secondary line/merging?! Dior Homme was something brand new after Monsieur was dropped. "

DIOR HOMME was absolutely new , as you say , and CHRISTIAN DIOR MONSIEUR died the death , along with Patrick Lavoix .
According , however , to Fashion Wire Daily Hedi DID design a more ' conservative ' collection when he first took over , in order to retain the more mature market , possibly .
Whether it actually went on sale , I am not sure , but I am certain that I remember the report on this in FWD . It was not a diffusion line , as I remember , but a more ' mature ' one , to go on sale in the Avenue Montaigne flagship .

If I am talking through my hat I apologise .

Quote:-
" What i dont understand is how Galliano's Dior clothing is made in France, whilst Dior Homme is made in Italy. The first 2 seasons of Dior Homme were made in France but they stopped... "

France is exceedingly expensive for manufacture and a lot of factories have closed eg Mendes Who used to make all the clothes for Yves Saint Laurent . Maybe with longer runs as the DIOR HOMME collection became more popular , LVMH had to look to Italian factories with more production capacity . There is another thread on this forum about Galliano's collection selling out and the fact that it could have been made in small runs . Could be the same situation as with Hedi's first collections .

Perhaps others here could put us right on these points .

Regards KIT

HI doo888

I had further thoughts last night on this subject .

I am pretty sure that this ' mysterious ' hedi collection was an adjunct to the main collection , and as I say , they , LVMH , could have had second thoughts about its being put into production .

I imagine LVMH could have been envisaging the same situation , AT THE OUTSET of DIOR HOMME , as there is with GIORGIO ARMANI ( the signature line ) and the fact that there is also ARMANI CLASSICO ( the other top-end line for more mature men , equally expensive and luxurious , but less ' cutting -edge ') .

If you go into the Giorgio Armani flagship on Sloane Street , MOST of what is stocked is ironically ARMANI CLASSICO ( I assume for the rich arab market ) and you have to really search for the signature pieces from the runway shows .
I actually had to make a special order for this item as it had not been ordered for the a/w 02 stock , which I was surprised about .



http://www.firstview.com/MENFall2002/GIORG...RMANI/P101.html



As a point , in designer runway shows , what you see on the catwalk is ONLY the highly directional pieces - those which will get immediate press coverage .

You find that there is much more in the way of pieces that can be ordered by the buyers , in the designers' showrooms ! Yves Saint Laurent Rive Gauche is a case in point here . Look at what is available in FLANNELS and HARVEY NICHOLS , for instance , and there are pieces on sale there that were NOT in the runway show .

I have read on this forum , that the men's Dolce e Gabbana goes on sale in their showroom WEEKS before their runway show .
Galliano for Dior is another case in point . His shows are a riot of spectacle with utterly unwearable outfits paraded , but everything is toned down and reinterpreted for what appears in the showroom on offer for the buyers to order for the CHRISTIAN DIOR boutiques .


Again , other members here on TFS might have some input here . B)


Regards KIT