Peter Do S/S 2023 New York

[Fulton St Critique]

I was indifferent to the collection until I saw the video!!!! One of the top collections at NYFW. Despite the tendency to copy some of histories most impactful designers, he is still showing he has a clear voice and direction. He will grow out of it IMO. Love this spacer fabric too, it was nice to see more of thst textile this season.

 

[LadyJunon]

I was indifferent to the collection until I saw the video!!!!

On that subject, here's the show video:

This collection looks infinitely better in movement. All of the sporadic shots of Do's team cutting and putting the clothes together make my heart sing. Philipp Paulus really did an amazing job on bringing life into Do's work through a digital lens.

 

[Cocteau Stone]

The video does make me warm to the collection much more, but it also makes me dislike a lot of things even more too. Like the chunky heeled boots really weren't a smart choice, the excess of random cutouts and open backs, odd slits that don't make the fabric move nicely and the colour palette (or lack of) needed an injection of something to add some life to it.

They lighter wispier pieces are the winning components to the collection, as well as the pleats. They move and also sit beautifully and they have that calmness to them. And I do appreciate the tailored pieces that don't have an annoying gimmick to them. But a lot of other pieces felt very fussy with the straps, wrapping, ties etc which fights this serene minimalism.

 

[LadyJunon]

The video does make me warm to the collection much more, but it also makes me dislike a lot of things even more too. Like the chunky heeled boots really weren't a smart choice, the excess of random cutouts and open backs, odd slits that don't make the fabric move nicely and the colour palette (or lack of) needed an injection of something to add some life to it.

They lighter wispier pieces are the winning components to the collection, as well as the pleats. They move and also sit beautifully and they have that calmness to them. And I do appreciate the tailored pieces that don't have an annoying gimmick to them. But a lot of other pieces felt very fussy with the straps, wrapping, ties etc which fights this serene minimalism.

Agree with you on the colour palette, solely black, white and grey (especially when the silhouettes vire towards the classical) can often make a collection appear overly algorithmic. The ties and straps replace traditional buttons, but make everything look tortured and hard to put on. I like the platform boots, but with them being with 70% of the looks and having seen him do them for three shows in a row gives me major visual fatigue. Banish them to the showroom.