Philosophy di Lorenzo Serafini S/S 2025 Milan

[LadyJunon]

 

[vogue28]

VOGUE.COM

 

[vogue28]

VOGUE.COM

 

[philophile]

I really like almost every single look. It looks like what Chemena did at Chloé, except done right instead of what she actually did.

 

[Lola701]

One of his best collection in a longtime. Thank god Chemena did her thing because this doesn’t have the caliber of Chloe.

However I think he should be the head designer of Alberta Ferretti.

 

[philophile]

Thank god Chemena did her thing because this doesn’t have the caliber of Chloe.

Disagree here. Chemena's Chloé is formless and unflattering, not very youthful at all. Contrary to that, this collection and design overall has the right details and fits. It's very delicate. I do agree it's his one of his best collections, though.

 

[Lola701]

Disagree here. Chemena's Chloé is formless and unflattering, not very youthful at all. Contrary to that, this collection and design overall has the right details and fits. It's very delicate. I do agree it's his one of his best collections, though.

But Chloe is a fashion POV.
See, the POV was strong enough for you to remember it.
You will probably forget about this collection in a week..

 

[philophile]

But Chloe is a fashion POV.
See, the POV was strong enough for you to remember it.
You will probably forget about this collection in a week..

Not really. I only remember that collection due to being absolutely shocked at how people hyped such an abomination. I had to look at it several times to see what others saw in it. That's the only reason why I will never forget it, especially because it reminds one of how herd mentality works. It's very impressive, indeed.

In fact, I saved a couple of these looks for inspiration and you bet I didn't save any of Chemena's masterpieces.

 

[jeanclaude]

I just see metres of fabrics covering the models. Very little design to talk about...and I love minimalism, but I don´t find any substance here.

 

[disco54]

Early 80s Grecian Dressing but its tooo much fabric, but some dresses are stellar

 

[tourbillions]

the proportions are not as good as that of max mara... and everything feels kind of heavy

 

[Lola701]

the proportions are not as good as that of max mara... and everything feels kind of heavy

At MM, you always have the feeling that function is a factor embedded in the creative process.
And MM is about style and attitude as much as it’s about function and design.

 

[Cocteau Stone]

This really does seem like the Max Mara counterpart to Chemena's Chloé and I don't mind it to be honest.

Some of these looks have a little too much fabric in them so they lose the lightness they're trying to go for and end up a bit heavier than needed but I can see the person that would go for them. The attempt at balancing something more "modest" or perhaps classic with that Chloé look/sensibility still needs to take time I suppose, but I don't hate this.

 

[philophile]

Weird that people here are talking about too much fabric in this collection, when Chemena's Chloé has sleeves hanging to the ankles, waistlines making women look 10 kgs wider, hemlines unable to be walked in without sweeping the floor.

 

[Cocteau Stone]

^ Certainly don’t disagree that Chemena’s collections have a lot of fabric going on, but at least it’s much lighter chiffons and georgettes. Erring into sexy peasant attire? Yes, but at least it isn’t so dense.

I’d say if the stripes and the black didn’t have any gathered components, I wouldn’t complain about there being too much fabric. His selection of fabrics is just a denser and tighter weave so even his lighter weights come across as heavier. I do like the more playful seductive modesty it creates though, he just needs to refine it a bit more.

 

[LadyJunon]

This collection looks more like MGC's Dior than Chemena' Chloe. Down to the shoes and hair.

 

[Lola701]

Weird that people here are talking about too much fabric in this collection, when Chemena's Chloé has sleeves hanging to the ankles, waistlines making women look 10 kgs wider, hemlines unable to be walked in without sweeping the floor.

Chemena is an aesthetic detail.
Her clothes as presented as they were suggested an idea of a woman on a go.

Here, it’s very beautiful but it’s more a type of leisurewear.

It’s maybe just a pure styling thing but the intention is different so it’s the movement of the clothes.

But as @LadyJunon said, this is more an Adult version of MGC than anything to do with Chemena. And MGC is Italian so, it seems maybe more a-propos.

 

[Xone]

Seeing that that is lees juvenile it was his way to say im going to be head of AF...i actually like it
can't wait what he'll do for his first collection...