I really liked this collection, but the transparent gowns really had me shaking my head in embarrassment for him. Can Prabal Gurung & Julien Macdonald please STOP doing this!?!? It is clearly Riccardo's territory, and anyone who attempts this really needs to get their head out of their a$$, because you will never be as good as the original.
While I can see the comparison between the sheer gowns at the end and some of what Tisci's been doing for couture lately, to say that it's Riccardo's territory is so beyond insulting and wrong that I can't even wrap my head around it.
You can't honestly think that because two years ago Riccardo Tisci decided that a transparent tulle gown that covers part of the body with glitzy embroidery or ends in a hem covered in ostrich feathers was a novel idea that he somehow invented them, can you? Not when those Givenchy gowns, gorgeous as they were, owe a huge debt to the likes of Bob Mackie, Roberto Cavalli, Donatella Versace, and even Julian Macdonald (who was doing the whole sparkly, mostly naked, drag queen in a Vegas revue thing before Riccardo Tisci was a name anyone knew), just to name a few, and especially not when the only reason those designers stopped doing dresses like that was because they fell out of favor. Now Tisci brought them back and he's some kind of innovator because of that?
Some perspective, please, when asserting that one designer "owns" some kind of territory that was long ago discovered.
As for the collection, I don't like it on first impression. It's very heavy and somewhat clumsy looking. Last fall was incredible and spring ended up being one of the few collections that I remembered months down the line, but I just don't like this. I think it's that a lot of this is so far removed from what he does well.