Prada Menswear S/S 2022 Milan

[Phuel]

^^^ LOL Even after all this time wasting away in TFS (and I mean that in the most constructive way), I still never knows if you’re being generous-- or malacious… Likely both (and I do mean that in the nicest way.).

Prada (along with Helmut and Tom) has always meant more to me since they were the labels that I spent money on since I was 14yo. And that nothing of theirs at the time would ever blare any semblance of logo/monogram— and yet still, I coveted them, was as much a testament to their talent, creative vision and integrity of always and never stooping to the lowest of standards to bait and beg to be down with stupid 14yos then. Unlike now, where every one of these labels are so blatantly begging for likes/follows from a generation of the most basic of children as there’s ever been. I’m so glad Helmut left this mess (even thought seeing his name dragged through sh!t on the most pathetic of designs is a tad heartwrenching to this day). And I’m glad Tom isn’t desperately seeking to be down with the kidz with silly pubescent designs. Muiccia :sigh:… If only one can actually be a fly on the wall as her and him run through a collection. In my mind, she’s resigned to not caring but bubbly smiles and nod since that’s what rakes in the coins (cuz I know exactly how that feels [not raking in all the coins part, but just staying employed in such an insufferable industry]).

 

[MulletProof]

^^^ LOL Even after all this time wasting away in TFS (and I mean that in the most constructive way), I still never knows if you’re being generous-- or malacious… Likely both (and I do mean that in the nicest way.).

hey as long as my occasional malice is not futilely confused for generosity..

But seriously, it’s none. A part of me is jealous that someone can still feel something towards any of this, no matter how negatively.. I was never a big enthusiast of this more corporate fashion, I definitely followed it but never had any ambition to be a participant in any form (not even as an impressionable teenager).. what I miss is the energy and curiosity these presentations provoked, which fueled thoughts and sharpened skills (observing, dissecting, you name it) and ultimately reaffirmed whatever bond you had with fashion as a whole. I think I just click and find out about this out of habit really.. and actually gathering enough attention to watch the video (continuously pressing forward to make it last 1 or 2 minutes) only serves to remind me that this tragically fell from one of the creative outlets that fascinated me the most, to weather small talk levels. And I’m not sure it was entirely by choice..

Hm, I have some deeply rooted contempt towards Miuccia that I just don’t see her as a grandma who just nods. She’s carried her business ruthlessly in many instances and put her big conglomerate gross foot (by copying them for example) on independent designers so I see her more sitting on a corner, whisky on hand, smirking as she pictures the quick revenue of all of this..

 

[Fulton St Critique]

Finally something new! Yes, I will take Prada’s side here, come at me!!!

It was inevitable after they announced their plan of achieving $6 billion in sales in five years that a commercial aspect would take over the label. In my review of the collection I evidence just how forceful it is. Tasteless, yes, unexpected, not in the slightest. Back during the SS Men’s 2019 collection is when I first realized just how cheap the Prada Men’s look had become, and this was prior to the $6 bil announcement. Even in the two Prada stores I recently visited the amount of underwhelming, plain clothing and overhyped accessories was something to scoff at. I loved the skirts- such quality- but the apparel is so unenthusiastic and mundane it has lost any of its charm. The retail offering needs an update, as soon as physically possible.

For the ready-to-wear this season, the purslette’s- as I have come to call them- return was inevitable. Though debuting in the 1990s on a combat boot, this resurrection was primed for an easy product placement. Marketing 101. Add it to the coveted Prada bucket hat and you will have any influencer or stylist banging on the Prada headquarters trying to get their hands on one. Stamp the Prada Milano logo on a jacquard bolero hoodie and you have a desirable object that is trendy, simple, and RECOGNIZABLE. I think once you realize where the label is coming from the end result gets easier to realize and come to terms with.

With that being said, I enjoyed the direction of this collection. Being a Prada Menswear fan, I felt bored with the same old same old corporate, matured attire that came down the runway each season. The textile developments were nice, but how many suits and oxfords could we handle? A fresh, updated aesthetic was needed. The rompers were cute, and the skorts(?) and rolled shorts were fun. Much of the collection reminds me of the experimentation of clothing/style that we all experienced when we were younger. I understand from a fundamental perspective how odd that sounds given the line’s history, still, such creativity is what pushes fashion forward. Even the feminine details were appealing. The square neckline in particular was interesting and illustrated a sex positive stance that I did not see coming in the slightest. I loved the combination of Miuccia’s prints as well. Such classic imagery matched well with the new (for Prada) shapes. @Phuel I loved the leather jackets. There are many a piece that will fit well with any Spring Summer wardrobe here. I would take a Prada jacket, pinstripe short, skort (that feel so uncomfortable to say), even give me a romper any day over something from JW Anderson. Separates is the key word here. Most of these pieces are a welcomed addition to any warm weather wardrobe.

As it relates to the lack of material to go on, it did present an opportunity for us to interpret the collection as is. Maybe next time a little more refinement and diversity (as in product offering) will be included, but for now, this is enough to make me excited for the future.

 

[Fulton St Critique]

Finally something new! Yes, I will take Prada’s side here, come at me!!!

“Stamp the Prada Milano logo on a jacquard bolero hoodie and you have a desirable object that is trendy, simple, and RECOGNIZABLE.”

A blouson knit, pardon me.

 

[Phuel]

^^^ Glad you’re excited for this direction, Fulton— knowing the history you have with the brand. Just that these sorts of proposals (although absolutely a step up from that JW person’s creepy fascination with dressing men like toddlers…), of which seems a tad too similar to the type of wears (the multicolor/mulitprint onesies with the rolled up hems and the feminine sweaters with all the silly zigzag straps) from fast-fashion girls brands that only exists online and whose profiles I’m only aware of through its invasion of ugly banner ads, doesn’t feel fresh nor clever. They’re just too gimmick, too throwaway, frankly.

hey as long as my occasional malice is not futilely confused for generosity..

But seriously, it’s none. A part of me is jealous that someone can still feel something towards any of this, no matter how negatively.. I was never a big enthusiast of this more corporate fashion, I definitely followed it but never had any ambition to be a participant in any form (not even as an impressionable teenager).. what I miss is the energy and curiosity these presentations provoked, which fueled thoughts and sharpened skills (observing, dissecting, you name it) and ultimately reaffirmed whatever bond you had with fashion as a whole. I think I just click and find out about this out of habit really.. and actually gathering enough attention to watch the video (continuously pressing forward to make it last 1 or 2 minutes) only serves to remind me that this tragically fell from one of the creative outlets that fascinated me the most, to weather small talk levels. And I’m not sure it was entirely by choice..

Hm, I have some deeply rooted contempt towards Miuccia that I just don’t see her as a grandma who just nods. She’s carried her business ruthlessly in many instances and put her big conglomerate gross foot (by copying them for example) on independent designers so I see her more sitting on a corner, whisky on hand, smirking as she pictures the quick revenue of all of this..

She always did strike me as possessing the sharp ruthlessness of Futurama's "Mom".

Haven’t bothered to read/watch any of her interviews from the last few years, because it all hs to be absolutely rehearsed BS when the designs are so low-brow. But during hers and fashion’s better days, I’d devour all her interviews. And she always came across rather acutely observant, shrewdly knowledgeable of her influences as well as her own influence, and tolerably self-aware. Which are by contrast, nothing I can also say about Raf. I still remembering being so confused when he said Helmut was his biggest influence in pursuing fashion design… And that was at a time when Raf’s fashions were still tolerable.

My first Prada purchase was in 1996 from the S/S collection. My last Prada purchase was a coat from A/W 2017. Since there, there’s not a whiff of an urge for anything from this label. So weird now that that 2017 collection, which really wasn’t anything particularly special but simply a toss of Prada signatures strewn together in to a still charming whole, looks and feels worlds and designs apart from this soulless, momentous corporate engine run amok just a few years later. Even when Prada offered proposals that we’ve all seen before: The leather suitings complete with leather tie; slouchy thick socks worn with sandals and short shorts; and mountaineering getups, she made it distinctively Prada. Now..??? Everything— from the fashions/accessories/bags/campaigns (and the campaigns really are the most offensively bland in comparison to the cinematic universe that was the supreme standard of Prada’s past campaigns) are so strategically lifeless and designed to shift units. That former quirk of ingenuity of branding and design looked and felt like those involved in the branding-- whether it was a single look from the presentation, or a single image from a campaign, gave tehe impression that every component was carefully curated to build to a whole: Like a there was a creative point. And now this concept feels long dead in what is Prada in 2021. I look at this brand now and it feels and looks like a hollow designer-imposter. Even the website is hideously devoid of personality. The veneer of this affliction I blame on Raf. But the core of this cold shift is all on Prada, sadly.