Proenza Schouler F/W 2024.25 New York

[philophile]

The creative journey of those guys must be hell for their clientele. When they started, they were American sportswear, then they became Tom Ford for Gucci, then Nicolas Ghesquiere for Balenciaga, then a long Phoebe Philo period and now Helmut Lang…

The good thing is that they are skilled enough to have pieces that are well cut and that falls perfectly!
In a way, doing Helmut Lang brought them back to what I think they are doing best: American sportswear. A good parka, good pants!
Those jeans are fabulous! Very Prada fall 2004 but also very now! I would love to buy that actually!

The worst part of this collection is the usual Phoebe Philo silhouettes we have seen so much since 2018.

It’s a pity that her minimalism has become the Bench mark of minimalism. If you have Helmut Lang on your mood board, don’t add anything Philo in it!

Nahhh, this couple has been pretty cohesive in their designs since their beginnings, which is not to say that I ever cared much about Tom Ford for Gucci or any of their inspirations. I care about the end result, and that's what everyone should care about as well. Believe it or not, I do believe you can create something completely new out of someone who inspires you, and that's not just me, it's the entire art and fashion world.

I think HL minimalism and even Margiela's has been a stronger benchmark of minimalism than Philo's. And yet they're all different, which is why I love to have all of them in my moodboards. Diversity of thought and interpretations reign at the end of the day.

 

[Nimsay]

Just last season they showed Bloomingdales Gown Section. This season they went all Matrix on us. Thats not cohesion.

I cant imagine the customer for this. Whose self identity is so fleeting that they can go from baroque floral mini dresses to this.

 

[RaisinBoy]

If you're getting there, everyone nowadays rips off Phoebe and Helmut. I don't think PS does, though. They've been doing this even before PP peaked at Céline. Let's face it: HL was a visionary. However, that doesn't mean designers influenced by him are not making steps forward by being influenced by him. Let's please not pretend that, because this is how art has evolved since its primitive era. Influences will always prevail, which doesn't mean the influenced are not creating anything not worth appreciating.

Sure, everyone is influenced by someone/something. Proenza is the most abysmal copy/paste case in recent fashion. Nothing but Anna Wintour’s pet project, and we all know by now how Anna Wintour has a questionable taste (Alexander Wang! Georgina Chapman Weinstein etc ect…… horrible tacky stuff!!!)

 

[jeanclaude]

They are totally auditioning to steal Helmut Lang from Peter Do. Looks better than Do antics...but the "inspirations" are still very obvious.

 

[tricotineacetat]

Honestly, people give too little credit to PS than what the brand deserves. I've been reading mockeries of them stating that they are gimmicks of The Row, Jil Sander, etc. Actually, no, the brand is older than The Row and over 20 years old and they have been doing this exact same thing since their beginnings.
While I do not think this is nearly their best collection yet (their best thus far was Fall 2013), I believe each of their of their collections has at least a couple of looks that makes them stand out from the rest of the subversive minimal style bunch.

You clearly must have overseen the first 5 years or so then in which they insisted on making bustier tops their signature and the years when their best sellers were tie-dye jerseys - None of which makes a plausible connection to this Helmut-by-way-of-Yohji thing they are doing these days.

 

[philophile]

Sure, everyone is influenced by someone/something. Proenza is the most abysmal copy/paste case in recent fashion. Nothing but Anna Wintour’s pet project, and we all know by now how Anna Wintour has a questionable taste (Alexander Wang! Georgina Chapman Weinstein etc ect…… horrible tacky stuff!!!)

Gen Alpha yet again. If you don't like minimal fashion, just avoid the embarassing opinions, K? Thkx. I bet your classy takes on fashion are Chanel, Gucci, and John Galliano. Congrats, you're very normal.

 

[Nimsay]

Lol. Chanel is classy.

John Galliano isnt classy he is above that. Hes ravishing.

Lets not forget you didnt understand why iris van herpen is not fashion but costume.

 

[philophile]

Lol. Chanel is classy.

 

[Nimsay]

Why arent u in the HL thread telling us why Peter Do is better than Alwxander McQueen

 

[philophile]

Why arent u in the HL thread telling us why Peter Do is better than Alwxander McQueen

I'm not a teenager.

 

[philophile]

Just last season they showed Bloomingdales Gown Section. This season they went all Matrix on us. Thats not cohesion.

I cant imagine the customer for this. Whose self identity is so fleeting that they can go from baroque floral mini dresses to this.

I've been a straight minimalist for over 20 years, tell me this to my face again. Just stick to Chanel, k? I'm pretty sure you're lit IRL, but let's just leave the ignorance here.

 

[Nimsay]

I will stick to 10k outfits. No problem. Ive been doing 10k outfits for 20 years.

 

[Nimsay]

I'm not a teenager.

you sure.

 

[disco54]

Such a pretentious brand, I remember Vogue would hype all their collections in their top 10 , 15-20 years ago . I don't know anyone who buys their sh!t even.

 

[Nimsay]

Its NYC Pretentious which is the worst kind.

Cold hard facts is that most NYers are not cool like they think. Merely wearing the skins of much cooler more relevant people.


If you live in NY youve met those 70 year olds who are still stuck in the 1960s. Im sure those people thought they were so cutting edge futuristic they never needed to update their ideas. So they got left behind. Those people typically have closets filled with brands nobody cares about like Romeo Gigli.

 

[Lola701]

Nahhh, this couple has been pretty cohesive in their designs since their beginnings, which is not to say that I ever cared much about Tom Ford for Gucci or any of their inspirations. I care about the end result, and that's what everyone should care about as well. Believe it or not, I do believe you can create something completely new out of someone who inspires you, and that's not just me, it's the entire art and fashion world.

I think HL minimalism and even Margiela's has been a stronger benchmark of minimalism than Philo's. And yet they're all different, which is why I love to have all of them in my moodboards. Diversity of thought and interpretations reign at the end of the day.

While I love reading your comments and totally respect your opinion, nobody will ever convince me that those guys have some sort of creative integrity…
The jeans are nice. I give them that. I might even buy them…
For the rest, I must admit that my level of respect for their work is close to the kind of respect the industry has for Christian Siriano.

 

[susseinmcswanny]

Part of me is kind of impressed that you can just posture your way into anything, but then again you attract what you put out so...

 

[Kennnnn]

This would have been a much more compelling Helmut Lang collection than whatever it was that Peter Do showed.

 

[Cocteau Stone]

There's some nice pieces in here. Just derivative as hell and riddled with the smell of poseur. Appreciate that it is all made really well though and the fit are actually what they're supposed to be. Except for the linings (or skirts/underlays?) on the leather smocks. Don't look intentional enough.

 

[RaisinBoy]

Gen Alpha yet again. If you don't like minimal fashion, just avoid the embarassing opinions, K? Thkx. I bet your classy takes on fashion are Chanel, Gucci, and John Galliano. Congrats, you're very normal.

I love minimal fashion. When it’s done authentically great. Cant stand Galliano, never could although he’s a master of his craft (unlike Proenza guys). Just not something i like, and thats Ok.
But if i were you I would learn more about fashion history and fashion design - you would realize the idiocy of Proenza as a label.
The most embarrassing opinion of this thread is that you dont see how abysmally bad Proenza guys are, and you just see it as “minimal fashion”.
Starting to think, by your screen name PHILOPHILE that you must be either Jack (who seems like a nice human being) or actually Lazzaro - the other guy of the two who is the abysmally ineloquent empty words bore..
Everyone, please welcome Lazzaro to our humble forum! And please be kind to each other. Thanks!🙏🏽