Proenza Schouler F/W 2024.25 New York

[nonfatgoddess]

Wow there’s so much tension in this thread lol

The clothes are actually fine but these Proenza boys are indeed pretentious ever since. Their lack of originality is probably one of the reasons why they went back to NYFW and weren’t able to sustain their PFW schedule.

Also, I’m getting fed up of seeing so many brands these days looking more and more like Phoebe/Helmut

 

[LadyJunon]

Also, I’m getting fed up of seeing so many brands these days looking more and more like Phoebe/Helmut

I think that this is where a maximalist designer like Ulla Johnson really does shine. Other than Dries Van Noten, there's isn't really anyone else in the Big Four who really does that aesthetic to the level of execution she does.

 

[kasper!]

Here we go again. Hand cuff bracelet is Lang's most famous design? Helmut Lang is the main reason that NY Fashion Week is the first fashion week to start in the calander. In the 90's it was after Paris Fashion Week. Also after 911, when Anna Wintour deciced to make an All-American issue, Helmut Lang was the only non-Ameican brand she put in Vogue! His influence is beyond your recognition...Gen Alpha please learn something!

 

[nonfatgoddess]

I think that this is where a maximalist designer like Ulla Johnson really does shine. Other than Dries Van Noten, there's isn't really anyone else in the Big Four who really does that aesthetic to the level of execution she does.

I agree which is why Dries is such a treasure! Ulla might want to improve their marketing in terms of aspirational value, that is if they really want their brand to be considered more as ‘luxury’

 

[Deleted member 141309]

I don't find it that offensive actually. It is just an Americanized version of Celine/Loewe/Lee Bottega gallerina look. It is basic, "inspired", slightly annoying, but not malicious. Isn't almost all of higher American fashion just a twist on European/Japanese brands anyway at its core?

 

[Lola701]

Marc Jacobs is the clear illustration of the fact that you can design under the influence but still have a handwriting.
In a calendar full of anonymous clothes, seeing an unidentified and unidentifiable collection from some of the most established names in American fashion is an issue!
Michael Kors and Ralph Lauren speaks the same language with a different accent. You could never mistake a Ralph Lauren show with a MK show. You cannot mistake Carolina Herrera from ODLR…

Nothing in this collection would make someone say: This is very Proenza Schouler! And for me it’s a major issue. And it’s an even bigger issue because they are some of the first ones from that generation…Since them, NYFW has only produced so far a bunch of anonymous names doing anonymous clothes.

For me, the work of a designer is irrelevant if it doesn’t have any identity. I need to see a handwriting and I need to see it evolve…That’s the beauty of the thing!

 

[RaisinBoy]

Marc Jacobs is the clear illustration of the fact that you can design under the influence but still have a handwriting.
In a calendar full of anonymous clothes, seeing an unidentified and unidentifiable collection from some of the most established names in American fashion is an issue!
Michael Kors and Ralph Lauren speaks the same language with a different accent. You could never mistake a Ralph Lauren show with a MK show. You cannot mistake Carolina Herrera from ODLR…

Nothing in this collection would make someone say: This is very Proenza Schouler! And for me it’s a major issue. And it’s an even bigger issue because they are some of the first ones from that generation…Since them, NYFW has only produced so far a bunch of anonymous names doing anonymous clothes.

For me, the work of a designer is irrelevant if it doesn’t have any identity. I need to see a handwriting and I need to see it evolve…That’s the beauty of the thing!

Amen