Racial Diversity In Modeling

[fashionlover2001]

^ I just wish East Asian models would get more respect! How about an OG cover, in Australia, Paris, Spain, ect... that doesn't involve a stereotypical East Asian theme.
Yawn...
Liu Wen always comes to mind. She's been in the industry for far too long and she should of had a couple of international OG Vogue covers by now. It breaks my heart.
I also find it disrespectful.

If you're a good hard working supermodel or top model you deserve the same rights as anybody else. Especially the veterans. And hopefully no gimmicky Covers or Editorials.

 

[fashionlover2001]

Okay, my immediate thought is this: Black people aren't the only POC, y'know. blink:) At least from my understanding.

It's not like other MOC are immune of the same barriers that black models encounter. And just because we don't hear it from the models themselves, doesn't mean they don't exist. I mean, hypothetically I would think that Asians and any non-white would suffer the same experience. And no. Just because some Asians are lighter in complexion or even 'whiter' than their white counterpart doesn't negate the fact that they are indeed POC too (or at least that's what have been categorized/to know of). Or that they are excluded from this conversation. (Why do I get the sense as if people are apathetic/indifferent towards Asians around here...)

So why is that there's like no discussion regarding Asians? Particularly East Asians.

I will only omit other Asians in this discussion as their presence aren't prominent as East Asians, particularly the Chinese. And we know the lack/absent of other representation of models in other parts of Asia is largely due to economics/market.


Is Ms. Hardison's main priority are the black models and not necessarily all POC? Genuine curiosity here. I mean it's her aim and effort. She can do whatever. No bitterness here. Just wondering.

^Exactly! Why call it a Balance Diversity campaign if you're only focused on your own interests your people or who you perceive to be one of your own.

What about the other people of colour struggling that we never hear about?

This Balance Diversity Initiative needs to recruit more people. Other people of colour even whites. That's when we'll start making a bigger impact.

In a perfect world, what I envision happening is the inclusion of more people of colour in all sectors of the industry. Everybody working in harmony together even if the majority is still slightly white.

It is vital that People of colour have representation in the fashion industry, in doing so it becomes the norm and not just a fad.

I hope Ms. Hardison's and Naomi recognize that "United we Stand, Divided we Fall"!

 

[clayboy]

Extract from "Ashley Brokaw: Fashion’s Most Unlikely Power Player"
By Alice Gregory

Rather than searching for porcelain-skinned, Nordic blondes or bronzed volleyball players from São Paulo, she is enticed by countries like Denmark, places that “have really good genetic mixes and that aren’t so . . .  stereotypical?” Speaking like a viticulturalist or someone tasked with sourcing rare coffee beans, she continues, “I’m always interested in those kind of hybrid girls that are ethnically ambiguous. I like mixtures. I like combinations. You know, that a girl has some Asian and some European and some American Indian.” For Brokaw, diversity isn’t a political goal so much as it is a matter of natural preferences that happen to be progressive. The most ideal model-producing places, she surmises, have lots of interracial marriage, a high G.D.P. (predictive of good teeth) and protein-rich diets (good for turning out tall but trim citizens). Australia, she says, would be a great source, if it weren’t for all the sun exposure: Beachgoing has ruined many a modeling career.

http://tmagazine.blogs.nytimes.com/2015/06/09/ashley-brokaw-profile/

Not quite sure why she picked Denmark as an example of places with good genetic mixes lol. And the bit where she writes: "For Brokaw, diversity isn’t a political goal so much as it is a matter of natural preferences that happen to be progressive", sounds quite racist. Sounds to me like she's saying diversity doesn't matter and it's just about aesthetics that happen to be changing and that they now encompass some MOC too.

This part confuses me: “I’m always interested in those kind of hybrid girls that are ethnically ambiguous. I like mixtures. I like combinations. You know, that a girl has some Asian and some European and some American Indian.”
Annoying that she didn't mention Africa... and I can't think of any model's she's cast that fit the description apart from maybe Alice Metza, so i'm hoping this means that she has some nice suprises in store next season.

+ Suprised that she mentioned interracial marriage as something she looks for when scouting, especially considering she cast more than enough eastern european newbies last season.

However, I do think she is making huge steps in the right direction with her casting's. E.g. The last two seasons of Prada we're probably the most diverse shows she's ever cast. (Apart from Prada ss14 which was probably the best ever in terms of diversity for her) I'm really just waiting for her to kickstart a darkskin girl's career and cast more than 10+ MOC in a show. (that would make me beyond happy)

 

[clayboy]

Prada showlists since Ashley Brokaw was named casting director (continuation)
http://forums.thefashionspot.com/showpost.php?p=11611927&postcount=134

-------------------Ashley Brokaw named Casting Director for Prada-----------------------

Prada F/W 2012: 41 looks, 2 on MOC (4.8% one Black model, Cora Emmanuel; one Asian model, Tian Yi.

Prada S/S 2013: 42 looks, 5 on MOC (11.9% two Black models, Grace Mahary and Roberta Narciso; three Asian models, Chiharu Okunugi, Sung Hee Kim, Yumi Lambert.

Prada F/W 2013: 48 looks, 4 on MOC (8.3% one Black model, Cora Emmanuel; three Asian models, Chiharu Okunugi, Sun FeiFei, and Sung Hee Kim.

Prada S/S 2014: 41 looks, 8 on MOC (19.5% Mariana Santana (had two looks), Malaika Firth, Binx Walton, Betty Adewole, Grace Mahary, Chiharu Okunugi, Sun FeiFei. ( Officially the most diverse Prada show ever!)

Prada F/W 2014: 51 looks, 3 on MOC (5.8% Ysaunny Brito, Imaan Hammam, Sun FeiFei (Brokaw's least diverse RTW show for Prada)

Prada S/S 2015: 43 looks, 7 on MOC (16.2% Issa Lish, Yumi Lambert, Dongqi Xue, Malaika Firth, Aya Jones, Sun FeiFei, Emely Montero

Prada F/W 2015: 41 looks, 5 on MOC (12.1% Aya Jones, Amilna Estevao, Lineisy Montero, Alice Metza, Dongqi Xue.

(I haven't counted Mica Arganaraz)

 

[clayboy]

Prada F/W 2014: 51 looks, 3 on MOC (5.8% Ysaunny Brito, Imaan Hammam, Sun FeiFei (Brokaw's least diverse RTW show for Prada)

this is wrong sorry, least diverse show was her first: F/W 2012

 

[TheoG]

^ You bring up a lot of great points, clayboy!

When I read the article I also found that statement to be particular, specifically the part about Denmark. Every girl I've seen from Denmark (Julier Bugge, Amalie Schmidt, Elisabeth Faber, Lululeika Ravn Liep, Line Brems etc.) that have been cast in her shows have all appeared to be demonym Danish... unless she's referring to them all having various different features facially. But like you mentioned she could have a few girls waiting to debut next season.

But I have to commend her efforts last season, she brought fourth interesting casting decisions with models of color that I appreciated.

 

[simon]

I'm seeing more MOC on the runways this men's season compared to the last ones.

 

[Marc10]

I'm seeing more MOC on the runways this men's season compared to the last ones.

I certainly saw that in London, but Milan was its usual self. Michael Lockley being the token black guy is almost every show, and when they cast more than one, they forget about asians (Prada). Milan is just hopeless. Hopefully Paris will do better.

 

[simon]

^ Check out Haider Ackermann. There are only 25 looks so far, but I'm seeing few popping up already.

There are also shows that are giving the opening slots to MOC, which is really nice to see. After Aamito's Balenciaga opening last season, I was hoping more would follow.

 

[nataliaapple]

Missoni had a lot of diversity as well. VERY pleasantly surprised by Haider Ackerman.

 

[orchidee]

Paolo Roldan, who is Filipino, opened and closed Giorgio Armani. I think it's definitely a step in the right direction that an Asian model opened/closed a big show like that. It's also great to see attention being given to models from countries other than the usual China/Japan/Korea.

I think Dolce and Gabbana had a few more Asian models than usual--probably because the collection was heavily inspired by China. But overall, Milan was more of the same in terms of diversity.

 

[TREVOFASHIONISTO]

Haider Ackermann's casting was brilliant. I woulnd't change a single thing about it.

 

[orchidee]

^Just looked through the photos. Impeccable cast. Barely any boring, pasty white boys. Everyone had an interesting look and fit the aesthetic perfectly.

Plus the model who opened the show is really hot

 

[fashunviktim]

I certainly saw that in London, but Milan was its usual self. Michael Lockley being the token black guy is almost every show, and when they cast more than one, they forget about asians (Prada). Milan is just hopeless. Hopefully Paris will do better.

There were 10 models of color at prada men's show and she debuted some amazing new faces! brandon Bailey, tre Samuels, sol goss, Maliak. I thought it was strong on that message. Alice metza, Linsey, damaris. For prada, this is a massive improvement.

 

[fashunviktim]

and is ANYBODy going to speak about GUCCI mens show!!!! there was not one! i am so shocked that none comments on that. it was all white models. and there were girls and boys. #whitepeople

 

[Aulirium]

Liu Wen

I Like Liu Wen. I think she's going to make it big if she isn't already ink:

 

[Prymasquous]

^ I just wish East Asian models would get more respect! How about an OG cover, in Australia, Paris, Spain, ect... that doesn't involve a stereotypical East Asian theme.
Yawn...
Liu Wen always comes to mind. She's been in the industry for far too long and she should of had a couple of international OG Vogue covers by now. It breaks my heart.
I also find it disrespectful.

If you're a good hard working supermodel or top model you deserve the same rights as anybody else. Especially the veterans. And hopefully no gimmicky Covers or Editorials.

Amen. In general, the level of respect across is still low and that's appalling.

Regarding Liu Wen's case: It's infuriating and frustrating to see her stature being overlooked, diminished and/or relegated to lower means. It's indeed highly disrespectful and this perpetual attitude to view Liu as less than than she really is, is unsettling. And yes hard work, dedication and professionalism/good work ethic just doesn't cut it, huh? Perhaps it does to which Liu's still working today, but she consistently play second fiddle and then fashion call it a day...

And yeah where's the Only Girl work ranging from covers, ad campaigns, editorials to runway (not to mention how long it took VC to give Liu her solo cover). You name it. And don't get me wrong, Victoria's Secret, Estee Lauder and questionable appearances on Forbes list is okay, but it's not enough as it should or at least when it comes to high fashion.

I know people will find reasons to fault Liu but we can definitely say the same to more prominent/veteran models who are just as stale in their work, if one wants to go down that route...

I assume there are many reasons as to why these things happen regarding Liu's case (e.g. conflicting scheduling, limited space, not the right choice, traditional values, priorities and compromise, etc.), but it just seems more transparent than anything that Liu's not highly regarded as she should be. I do think things will change eventually. Eventually.

-


And sadly it still feels as if fashion allows only one Asian model to rise or in the limelight (Fei Fei currently is at the forefront) and be complacent about it and not recognizing other talents...

Okay, I might've emphasized that in a bad light, but my point is that Soojoo should receive more work or greater recognition for nabbing L'Oreal. Jing Wen seem's to be fashion's current favorite of newcomers, and she should've gotten more reputable work in terms of prestige. (Actually, Jing gained quite a handful of campaigns and editorials thus far for 2015 which is very good, but again they aren't blue-chip nor the desired publications.) Tao Okamoto as a new-found legit actress on the big screen and small screen should receive a lot more coverage (how about a Vogue cover?) as a model transitioning to the most arguably valued 'commodity' in pop culture.

There's been news and coverage of the aforementioned models and their accolades, but they were minuscule and that's essentially the point. With the limited/small pool of Asians that we do have - who are at a turning point in their career or of achieving gold at the moment - should get just as much as their counterpart or simply to recognized for being a model and for their accomplishments. Should be fair, no?

And where to even begin with the many working Asian models who aren't getting their fair share too (though they do get whatever they could get). I wonder if it's competitive too.


As for Asians in general: Why is it much more difficult to see Lakshmi, Ai Tominaga, Hye Park, Ling Tan, Eugenia Mandzhieva, Han Jin and Du Juan back in the fashion arena? Most if not all are still active in fashion in some form, so why not start re-utilizing them? They are just as talented (albeit subjective) and should be given the equal opportunity like their white/black counterpart. (Of course I understand there's many mechanism that make it difficult for these models, that's a reality - at the same time, it's great to see individuals recognize and to be re-interest in these beauties. Those are the rare opportunities where we get to see them again, as it seems...)

-


And I hear you when it comes to stereotypical themes... and those stories do pop up from time to time. However, IMO I think some stories do so to achieve this authenticity especially if they're referencing or to recreate something inspired of the East... I think it's okay as long it's not degrading or trite and the outcome isn't a complete mess...

What also irk is the general mentality/perception of Asians' beauty (and body!) and culture in general when producing creative stories. I just think Asian models should be given the freedom to express and be styled/guided in stories that stray from the usual preconceived notions of Asians (both female and male models). Just think there should be a balance and nice mixture of editorials showcasing the many facet and range of what an Asian model can be and do. Every model is their own personality, why not explore that.

Sometimes they're typecast and pigeonholed. Where's the imagination or creative process and thinking outside of the box?

Overall, I think in general fashion is moving pass these outdated ideologies and prejudice and has made gradual progress, although painfully slow...

What about the other people of colour struggling that we never hear about?

Here's what Jing Wen said recently although it's not much, via WWD:

||WWD: Have you noticed more diversity on the runways, especially in terms of Asian models?

Jing: Asian girls are coming up, and [there are] more Chinese models than before, but it's still hard for Asian girls to get shows. In one show, they'll only [cast] two or three Chinese girls.||


The reason why I quote that is because to me (not sure about you guys), I tend to not see Asian models being asked upon on diversity or let alone how they fare in modeling other than asked the usual: if they see an influx of xyz Asian models.

Not even sure if Liu, Fei Fei, Tao or of the established Asian models have ever been asked about persoanl issues regarding being Asian. Unless I missed them somehow... Wonder if it's taboo to talk about it or it's an afterthought.

And here we have one account claiming that it's still hard to walk for shows. Imagine booking magazine covers and ad campaigns... We know how that's like. Depressing. (Isn't China like the #1 source of profit for many fashion houses, and we still don't see faces of Chinese or let alone Asian in these adverts? Why the double standard too, no? I digress...)


Well at least we got to hear something.

^Exactly! Why call it a Balance Diversity campaign if you're only focused on your own interests your people or who you perceive to be one of your own.

This Balance Diversity Initiative needs to recruit more people. Other people of colour even whites. That's when we'll start making a bigger impact.

I hope Ms. Hardison's and Naomi recognize that "United we Stand, Divided we Fall"!

You know, I hear what you're saying.

At the same time I cannot fault her for supporting black girls as that was perhaps her initial effort. I mean she's black after all. And I don't know who are all associated in this coalition. So we don't have much to go around.

But yeah maybe their organization/campaign name, 'Balance Diversity', is somewhat misleading...

Here's Bethann receiving an award:


youtube​

Clearly, we know who she supports and who she's specifically referring to, evident by the many black models on stage and her speech. I think it's fine.



Now, we need an organization that supports our Asian models too. But guess what. We don't have those public figures who gives a damn...

On a serious note, it'll be wonderful to not forget Latin, African, Middle Easterns, South Asian, SE Asians, Central Asians and other aspiring qualified models from remote area around the world integrated and represented on an international scale. It's a far, far cry from reality. Sure there's beauty can be found everywhere and they ought to be included even though fashion is supposedly exclusive. Basically it shouldn't be about politics. If a model who has it all, then let her model. Let her beauty and ability speak for itself.

In a perfect world, what I envision happening is the inclusion of more people of colour in all sectors of the industry. Everybody working in harmony together even if the majority is still slightly white.

It is vital that People of colour have representation in the fashion industry, in doing so it becomes the norm and not just a fad.

Agree. As someone mentioned it already that we do need more POC in all areas from the CEO, manager, CD, stylists, scout, designer to any prominent figure from corporate and affiliation to pop culture. The goal isn't exclusive to any individual or group. I'm pretty sure with all the challenges that POC, specifically blacks, overcame didn't combat alone... not all whites were bystander, but there were those who did assist on making progress for everyone, and vice-versa. That's the aim and is very much so an idealistic view.

When you have an environment/community of all walks of life, it becomes reflective; and I very much firmly believe that this will only benefit everyone (if you choose to accept it). Especially of cultural awareness between all groups, ideas and the flow of money (I know, hate it but yes) among other things.

And I've drum the beat of having representation too much... thus I'll save and just say that it's very important to see it. Images in fashion in particular has huge implication to the mass. And more importantly, I find it troubling when we don't see that. Psychologically it's very damaging.


Alright enough of this philosophical speaking and long essay lol and lets see whether fashion follows the culture and society that we do live in. I know fashion is part fantasy but it's also reflective.

 

[Riseup]

75 looks at Saint Laurent today and not a single moc, at this point Heidi should run for kkk's presidency.

 

[TREVOFASHIONISTO]

i didnt think i could love a cast more than Haider's but then Umit Benan's was gorgeous. Models from all over the world

 

[Nomar]

I thought Balmain's casting was also wonderful, lots of diversity and it's obviously a central part of the brand.