Racism in the Fashion Industry

[Lefemmenikita]

A gay artist from Russia has created a flipped image in response to the controversial photo of Garage magazine's white, female editor-in-chief sitting on a "black woman" chair.

The Russian editor-in-chief of Garage magazine, Dasha Zhukova, came under fire for an editorial photo showing her seated atop a chair designed to look like a black woman with a belt around her waist and thighs and her legs up in the air.

The photo, which offended many, began circulating on Monday, Jan. 20, which was Martin Luther King Jr. Day. Zhukova eventually apologized and called the decision to appear with such a racially insensitive piece of art "regrettable." She also reasoned that designer Bjarne Melgaard's actual intent was a "commentary on gender and racial politics."

But, some did not find the apology sufficient.

Alexander Kargaltsev, a gay New York City-based photographer and gay activist, decided to stage his own response to the "outrageous and tasteless" portrait with an image of a naked black man seated on a naked white man, whose legs are folded up to create a "chair."

"I was forced to leave Russia because of the discrimination I experienced as a gay," Kargaltsev told The Huffington Post in an emailed statement Friday. "I'm disappointed that the tradition of xenophobia is so strong in my home country that such an image of Ms. Zhukova can appear as if it is normal and unremarkable. Russian people do not seem to realize when people offend the principle of color, nationality, sexual orientation and so on."

Kargaltsev explained the idea behind his photo to Out There Magazine, saying:

t deeply saddens me to see that racism is now being glamorized and thus made not only acceptable but trendy by the likes of Ms. Zhukova. My own composition reverses the visual injustice and offense perpetrated by that editorial and in a way restores the equality of genders, races, and sexual orientations. Sadly, I understand very well that my work will be seen by most Russians as provocative and inappropriate, while that repulsive image (published on Martin Luther King’s Day of all days in a year) will hardly make anyone over there shake their head.

NSFW image contained in the following link:


http://www.huffingtonpost.com/2014/01/24/gay-russian-artist-black-woman-chair_n_4659014.html?utm_hp_ref=mostpopular

 

[Les_Sucettes]

More than racist the chair is absolutely demeaning to women in general. The fact it's a black woman "chair" to me is a side issue. The chair is the issue.
I had the displeasure to see the white woman chair "counterpart", and the inspiration for this one, recently at a Tate show called "art under attack" , apparently feminists threw acid at it to defaced it but it has been lovingly restored, that's why it was included in the show. The inclusion of the chair left a bad taste in my mouth, what did the Tate meant by it? Particularly when the chair is part of the Tate collection and receives full honours as an art piece. To be honest if there was a time in my life that i felt an urge to kick an "art piece" was this one, it's absolutely disgusting.
That someone thinks it's a good idea to recreate this chair and add a racial element to it, is beyond understanding.

 

[YoninahAliza]

^Also, you raise a good point about the use of women in art in general, Guerrilla Girls has found that as of 2012, "less then 5% of the artist in the Metropolitan's Modern Art section is by women, but 85% of the nudes are of women." It's quite telling, no? So while the Tate and the Met are different museums they still support many of the same artists. I can imagine seeing that "chair" would be horrible, no matter what race the women depicted was portrayed as. Some things are just horrible no matter which way people try to spin it. And why anyone would see this "chair" as art is beyond me, it just reeks of misogyny and in particular cases, racism too.

 

[NoirFemme]

I fail to see how that specific cultural symbol differs from the use of kimonos or what ever other cultural attire in fashion.

Both are wrong: how can you appropriate other cultures' indigenous dress--much of which has meaning to that culture other than "that's so cute/fierce/sexy!"--but erase them from the picture? The use of Native American garb and imagery comes across as though these people do not exist in our modern-day society, that they are an ancient, dead, and absent cultural group from whom we can freely pilfer for ~inspiration~.

Then there's the issue a few others have raised: women of color have a very long history of sexual exploitation by those in power. Taking a kimono or a War bonnet to place in a sexual context--think Katy Perry's outfit at the AMAs--is demeaning and dismissive of what women of color face in terms of how their sexuality is stereotyped and objectified even by white women.

 

[Not Plain Jane]

That chair is totally gross. And I'd say that if a black woman were sitting on a white male too. It doesn't have much aesthetic or socio-political value.

Yoninah - very interesting statistics, thanks.

 

[Mr-Dale]

Both are wrong: how can you appropriate other cultures' indigenous dress--much of which has meaning to that culture other than "that's so cute/fierce/sexy!"--but erase them from the picture? The use of Native American garb and imagery comes across as though these people do not exist in our modern-day society, that they are an ancient, dead, and absent cultural group from whom we can freely pilfer for ~inspiration~.

Then there's the issue a few others have raised: women of color have a very long history of sexual exploitation by those in power. Taking a kimono or a War bonnet to place in a sexual context--think Katy Perry's outfit at the AMAs--is demeaning and dismissive of what women of color face in terms of how their sexuality is stereotyped and objectified even by white women.

Very interesting points. I think it is safe to say that we as a society do accept Japanese inspired fashion. Or Massai, Peruvian, Russian, Slavic, Scottish, Dutch, Arabian, Indian inspired fashion. To mention just a few specific cultures and their attire that have been referenced in (high) fashion over the past ten years. I've at least never seen or heard any major objection to those cultural references or it being interpreted as racist.

So when does cultural inspired fashion become racist? When the specific culture was once (or still is) oppressed by white Western society? I'm just trying to understand what's going on here, because there seems to be a very thin line that not everyone in fashion naturally acknowledges or doesn't recognize at all. Perhaps out of ignorance or an aesthetic hunger, but either way, it's very confusing. I'm confused, that's for sure.

I just wanna yell out 'World peace for everyone!' and embrace the beauty of our world's rich ammount of cultures and see it translated by the creative medium I love the most. But I guess that is not an option. I really just want to understand.

 

[YoninahAliza]

^I feel ya, this is such a tricky and complex subject and one which I am still always trying to broadening my understanding about. When is the use of a cultural signifier in fashion racist and when is it not??? There is certainly a fine line and one that I don't think is always easy to spot. Our world is so, so beautiful and much of this beauty can be seen in the different types of clothing and accessories that people wear. That said, I think there are times and places when certain cultural items should be left in their cultural context. Other times it may not be seen as a big deal. One thing that I have learned while studying anthropology is that "context is key." You can remove an item from its cultural setting and it may lose all significance, but this is not always the right or best thing to do. It is important to look at the culture from which an item comes from and try to understand the value that this particular culture places on it. This is one way of thinking that I try to use while seeing if something in fashion may be racist or not. But obviously, it's a lot more complex then this too, this is just one piece of the many layers and nuances of racism in fashion.

 

[Psylocke]

I think it's interesting how we are becoming this global world, where cultures and traditions are becoming more mixed, and where it becomes increasingly important to have an understanding for history, to preserve certain aspects of different cultures, and also pass on the beauty of them to the next generations. And yet it's so difficult to do it right. I, personally, still have a hard time fully understanding why it's so wrong to take inspiration from Native Americans for collections, editorials, etc. Where I live, people dress up as Native Americans for carnival, the Winnetou movies were hugely popular and a big part of my childhood and people just generally seem to admire the beauty of the fashion of Native Americans. And yet in the past few years it has become an absolute no-no for anyone in the world to take inspiration from them when it's not in a historical/educational/"right" context and use it for something 'banal' like fashion. I guess that also has to do with globalization, people becoming more aware of their history and its ugly sides, their current miserable situation and so on. But I understand when people have difficulties getting used to seeing it like that, because I definitely still struggle with it, too. I'm starting to see why some people think it's wrong, but do *I* think it's wrong? I'm not quite there yet, I think.

That being said, to me fashion is always history, art and a representation of our culture. But what makes the current fashion scene so bland is that it's mostly inspired by the same eras, areas and people. Prada may be inspired by Japan for one season, then it's the South Sea, and then it's Russia. Same goes for most other designers. But eventually it's just the same stereotypical aspects being rehashed again and again by many designers in many collections and it eventually never quite feels like a tribute to a culture but just like a short-lived trend. But that doesn't mean I'm offended by it. I actually think it's good that people keep trying to broaden the spectrum of what people see as beautiful, fashionable and inspiring. The business side of fashion unfortunately still seems to interfere with that.

 

[Not Plain Jane]

...and try to understand the value that this particular culture places on it.

This sounds right to me; it's important, for example, to know if a particular garment or accessory carries a deeper meaning (i.e., maybe is spiritual) to a certain culture, or if it's just a trend. Probably in the later case it'd be less egregious to revise and "quote" from that culture. Problems arise when people don't know the context, as Yoninah aptly and already pointed out.

 

[Phuel]

I do agree with you completely, Mr-Dale. But I am also very glad that people here on TFS are politically, and socially aware and sensitive to the cultural appropriation used/ exploited/ celebrated in fashion. Even as sanctimoniously so in their support of diversity as some may be-- I still appreciate it. However, and oftentimes, I cannot help but be convinced, reading these posts on the demand for racial-diversity in models, and the insensitivity of cultural appropriation in fashion, that it really only applies to certain races, and is not inclusive of equality for all races.

There was a case here in Toronto where a Native individual complained that the floral-embellished headbands sold at H&M were offensive to her because they trivialized her culture. THey were immediately pulled. It's this type of overreaction I find unbearable, as these pieces could have been the launching-point to some impressionable young customer to learn about the piece's origins.

Some of my family members are Buddhist, but they never complained or demanded that those mass-produced Buddha busts sold everywhere as home decor be removed from the shelves (in respect to the Tibetan oppression that continues in the hands of the Chinese government). As Mr-Dale has brought up, kimonos are a cherished and much respected garment in Japanese tradition-- passed down from generation to generation as a family heirloom, yet it's a purely fashionable and throwaway garment to many in the West-- often even associated with lingerie-wear, and no one complains how disrespectful that may come across to the Japanese. Lest some forget how unjust the Japanese-Americans were treated in the US at one time... or how disgustingly exploitive the Chinese who came to Canada to work on the railroads were treated by the Canadian government at one time as well... but I suppose in the eyes of some, because these Asian countries have become power players globally and no longer being visibly oppressed, it's alright to trivialize their traditional, and even sacred garments...? (Or for that matter, no thread was created to discuss when the Armani in Beijing event revealed how disrespectful-- perhaps racist, the organizers treated the Chinese models.)

There's such a huge difference between a genuine image of the Buddha to a Buddhist, then these mass-produced cheap decorative pieces. Just as a genuine piece of rosary means so much to a devout Catholic compared to their fashionable Dolce & Gabbana version. I see the same for the Native-American War Bonnet and would hope that Natives feel the sam way, if it's shown in a positive manner. Granted, I think Karl's version is offensive to me in just how tacky and inconsiderate the styling is-- and, just going by how shallow and vapid Karl is as a designer (and probably a person-- but that's for another discussion), I would conclude his appropriation of any cultural piece is most likely for superficial purposes only, and not out for genuine admiration for the culture. Someone like Gaultier, on the other hand, has always come across as an individual with a genuine curiosity, appreciation and admiration for other cultures and races.

So, I think it really is about, as some have thoughtfully pointed out, all in the context, and the individual designer/ stylist/ editor, when it comes to these cultural appropriations, when we should judge. Gaultier has always come across genuinely respectful, creative, imaginative and inspiring in his vision of melding cultures together. Karl-- purely shallow, and hopelessly superficial. And us everyday people are the same: Some will take inspiration, and education from these cultural appropriations, while some will just see it as "cute", "fierce"... To me anyways.

 

[TREVOFASHIONISTO]

I also feel this way with the Indian culture too. The bindi has become popular amongst the tumblr crowd and I just think its awful that girls wear that as some cute accessory. It has so much meaning and history behind yet its now seen as something to accessorize and use to look cool and different.

 

[MulletProof]

I find many of the accusations on cultural appropriation unbearable too, and I find the term itself to be made up of mostly nonsense. Sure, it sounds sensitive, but it also implies someone then has the rights or the liberty to grant permission to cultural elements that, for better or for worse, no one owns.

I see where the quick reaction comes from and how it differentiates from, for example, getting inspired by the attire of some Finnish group. It comes from ongoing tension, social wounds that are still open or denial of closure. And like I said in the cultural appropriation thread, comparing any group with any type of attire with a group that continues to face discrimination and has an endless history of tension with an oppressor (which is the one that happens to be reinterpreting and "exploiting" their culture for profit and with poor sense of understanding- and I'm not talking symbolism but simply getting one group right!) is not something that's going to shed much light into the topic, because it's lazy, you can't just pile anything that's 'traditional' into one category and wonder why is this more offensive than the other. What would help a lot is separating said groups and pairing them up by circumstance, and this means, what other group has gone through something similar? does this happen in Europe? has segregation ever taken place, did it leave scars? did they completely heal? does it still happen? (of course it does, these naughty tricks in America didn't exactly come from the Pacific). Focus on maybe Jewish people, whose European experience was a little more than traumatizing, pick anything that looks fun, exotic or just plain weird to your eye and make some cute tops or a new type of politically incorrect hat, do honor it with a few pretty embroideries but never abandon the "wild" element. Even the sole mention of this group may generate some 'oh no no, not them, how dare you', we all know what happened and it gets us all, and in the invisible scale of social... scarring, they're actually not doing that bad these days (which can't be said for Native Americans- I haven't seen them on top of anything lately). And of course there are a lot of groups with specific dressing designers are not going to touch because the tension is palpable, you may as well wear a robe that says 'Prada manufacturer', hell you may as well dress as yourself ...how obvious and risky, and by that I mean modern ways of dressing... the sartorial patterns of immigrants in kitchens, out in the fields and most service jobs, and yes, it is practically the same, granted they have removed elements to satisfy a thirst for what's kitsch and can bring us tears of joy for its exotic splendor but deep in a mind with no much depth, they are rocking grunge. Why is it not being replicated? because acknowledging they even exist would make you think harder when voting, and because even though there's a perfectly clear expression through clothing even in exploited groups, it's too awkward and has all the potential to take your fashion trip down to guilt trip when you can see it in that alley on the back of that fancy restaurant that makes you feel like you made it in life.

So it appears, in fashion: tension, past, present and ignorance are perfectly compatible, a toy so to speak; tension, past and knowledge are not; tension and past (say, Catholicism) works too... tension and present is super offensive.. "you're now being too serious". Racism is debatable. Segregation is okay as long as you don't see it (which is easy- being segregated!). Exploitation doesn't exist.

In conclusion fashion (designers) is okay playing with tension as long as its consumer's confidence in social achievements is not compromised. And that mentality belongs in that good ol' "I don't hire black models because the majority of my consumers are not black". Meaning there's a pretty ceremony around a consumer's wallet... only to call him stupid.

 

[Phuel]

^^^ Those are great points Mullet... but, if you're speaking of how we, as individuals discussing and coming to terms with races issues, then yes-- I'm learning and coming to an understanding of the different points of views. However, we know very well that that type of thoroughness, thoughtfulness, consideration and compassion is not going to infiltrate the fashion industry. I don't expect Dasha to be educated, as I think someone like her would just say that she's sitting on "art"-- or that she's just being an equal-opportunist, since the original pieces depicted white women, and she's chosen to be photographed with the "black" version-- that kind of attitude... It all comes across incredibly insensitive and ignorant to me-- which seems to be a common factor in this industry. I'm going to give her the benefit of the doubt, and not so fast to label her a racist, though.

TREVO: That type of attitude is to be expected from the Tumblr crowd-- but, maybe a few of them will learn something about East Indian culture in the process. That's how education can start: It's no different to me than to see crucifixes slathered all across high fashion runways. Both instances, cultural/ religious symbols are meant to look cool, or whatever positive term you'd like to use-- I don't think these girls are wearing the Bindi to mock Hindus. I feel these symbols of a culture/ religion/ people, are just empty signifiers and don't lose their importance and context because some trendy girls think it's "cute" to wear them. Just like I have no intentions of going into Victoria's Secret and demand that all the kimono-style lingerie be removed because it trivializes a garment that has so much meaning to me. It's tacky and cheap Victoria's Secret: it has no absolutely no meaning to me. It does not offend me.

A photojournalist friend came back from North Africa where he and his team had spent time with Bedouin tribes, and some Massai tribes as well. He gave me as a gift some portraits, as well as a headscarf-- in that famous indigo. He told me it was a gift from the individual in one of the portrait (who, BTW, has the most unbelievable bone structure and the most hypnotic eyes, and would be totally model-material should he live in the West). I wear the scarf in my own style-- sometimes in the traditional Western manner, sometimes wrapped around my head, in the traditional Bedouin style. I hope that I'm not being disrespectful in any way to the individual who gave me this gift when I wear his traditional piece with a designer suit. I don't think I am. I'm much more aware of him and his culture for having this very personal gift.

 

[Prymasquous]

I'm very curious, we hear black/African models (and people who work in fashion, in general) stories/experiences of racism and discrimination relatively more often. But why don't we hear so much of other people of color (or any other group of people who could fall under these circumstances too)?

Particularly, how are Asian people, whether models or other professionals, treated/faring in the fashion industry? How come I haven't heard (with the exception of two, I think) an account from the many Asian models that we have, especially the well-known, share their thoughts/experiences about racism? I don't want to assume, but I think they/some do and probably some don't experience such scenarios?

It would be great to hear someone who actually works in the fashion industry to shed some light on this (preferably with first hand experiences). I'm genuinely curious and compassionate about this subject.


On another note, there was a recent article published:

lovefmd.com



Or, how about these designers, editors, photographers, etc. of Asian descent, feel about this subject?

 

[BetteT]

I'm only in the fringes of the fashion biz and I am not a "person of color", so I may not be the person you want to hear from. But, since you asked, I'll add my 2 cents. It's really just a guess ... based on just my own personal experiences and discussion with some of my friends who are of different ethnic backgrounds than me.

I believe that any non-white person may have experienced some or a lot of discrimination in this business but some people just don't speak of it, openly. The reason you may not hear from other people of color, other than African Americans, is possibly just a cultural thing.

The African American people have had an extremely difficult row to hoe as a result of being forced from their homelands and into slavery in the Americas. And they were treated as either animals, or more recently, as second class citizens at best. African American people have struggled for well over a century and have slowly found their voice to speak out about injustice. I would think that they probably don't want to ever go back to being silent about this. Over the decades, it has finally become the right thing to do for all African Americans ... to speak up.

Other people of color probably do not have this type of history, and therefore might not feel the urgency to speak up. Or if they are strongly tied to the culture in the country where they came from, perhaps it's considered bad form to complain.

Either way .... the discrimination is likely there .... it's just that each culture (and each person) may respond to it in a different manner.

 

[Prymasquous]

I'm only in the fringes of the fashion biz and I am not a "person of color", so I may not be the person you want to hear from. But, since you asked, I'll add my 2 cents. It's really just a guess ... based on just my own personal experiences and discussion with some of my friends who are of different ethnic backgrounds than me.

I believe that any non-white person may have experienced some or a lot of discrimination in this business but some people just don't speak of it, openly. The reason you may not hear from other people of color, other than African Americans, is possibly just a cultural thing.

The African American people have had an extremely difficult row to hoe as a result of being forced from their homelands and into slavery in the Americas. And they were treated as either animals, or more recently, as second class citizens at best. African American people have struggled for well over a century and have slowly found their voice to speak out about injustice. I would think that they probably don't want to ever go back to being silent about this. Over the decades, it has finally become the right thing to do for all African Americans ... to speak up.

Other people of color probably do not have this type of history, and therefore might not feel the urgency to speak up. Or if they are strongly tied to the culture in the country where they came from, perhaps it's considered bad form to complain.

Either way .... the discrimination is likely there .... it's just that each culture (and each person) may respond to it in a different manner.

Thanks for sharing, BetteT.

I'm not sure if you were referring to a cultural event such as slavery or whether you were referring to 'how to handle/unable to speak up' is due to cultural traits... But if we were to speak in U.S. context then IMO I doubt much POC, whether recent immigrants or first/second generation, would be oblivious to such racism and not speak up. I mean, this is a slightly different context but still applicable.

On the matter of speaking up I think it is more about the lack of attention, concern, resources, political actors (other than black) and how to combat--that make it seem like racism is just a 'black' thing or they are perceived as the only victims/target and not others. Also other POC don't have leverage and the political platform especially to address on a wider scale. Indeed, other POC weren't enslaved nor treated as harsh as the black in U.S.; and granted slavery is a cruel and inhumane act and the civil rights movement is still fresh in U.S. history. It is very reasonable why blacks are at the forefront on anti-racism and more vocal thanks to the great leaders/activists. No question there.

Historically, I'm pretty sure early immigrants such as the Chinese, Indians, Japanese, Filipinos and others (even the Irish) have had experienced racism and discrimination even to the point where there were laws enacted to prevent their well-being and the like. Recently we could see the same cycle with the Mexicans/Hispanics and Muslims/Middle Easterns. We could also see the struggle of the Native Americans and their persistent requests. One could argue that the Native Ams. had it worst of all POC through mass murder and stolen land. .....so in the context of U.S. it is not necessarily a 'cultural' thing (rather it's U.S. history), but it's the context of these group of people's history and experiences that they were oppressed and faced racism. I think it is valid.

Now if we were to speak of Asian people, then that will garner a different perspective and context. Lets not forget about colonialism/imperialism. Sure, it may not be as 'fresh' for some country/culture/people, but it still lingers in their history and other aspect of their society--even to this day. Different context but still opposition of the white man.

On the other hand, yes, speaking up is not necessarily everyones' style. I understand. Or it could very well be just a cultural thing and having different traits on handling or bad to complain, like you said, I don't know; or having no experiences on racism. I won't doubt that any second.

Without the voice, support, tool or knowledge of handling racism--could lead to internalizing that it is okay and to silence is the only option. Also it is the twenty-first century and we all should know better, let alone being U.S.A. No person, esp. a POC, should condone racism in all of its heinous forms at the cost of their well-being --whether ethnically, politically, economically, socially, sexually or intellectually.





Were you strictly speaking for L.A? Or places such as NY and Europe too?

 

[IsabelMarantBoy]

Versace had a Code Word for when Black People Enter their Stores?

I saw this article on Facebook, and when I searched it up there were multiple articles about it: http://usuncut.news/2016/12/26/vers...tering-their-stores-its-pretty-damn-terrible/

According to this article, the man who is telling all this used to work for Versace, and when the company told him about it he mentioned he was african american himself. When that was brought up, the company begin treating him badly; denying him breaks and after only two weeks they fired him. According to the company he hasn't "lived a luxury life." He is now suing for damages and lost wages but Versace is denying the allegations and asking for a dismissal of the suit: http://www.theroot.com/blog/the-gra...er-ex-employee-alleges-racial-discrimination/

Thoughts?

 

[orchidee]

Honestly it wouldn't surprise me if it were true. But the racist code allegations aside, their reasoning for his dismissal is super shady. How is that anywhere near justifiable?

 

[dodencebt]

I wouldn't be surprised if it turned out to be true. A while back ago there was a rather credible article in The Guardian regarding "labeling" black customers in Zara:

https://www.theguardian.com/us-news/2015/jun/22/zara-reports-culture-of-favoritism-based-on-race

 

[fashionista-ta]

^ Very interesting article. I had no idea that Macy's and Barney's had paid settlements after being investigated for discrimination

I've been followed in a store once (not fashion) and I can attest to its being an unpleasant experience. I do recommend turning suddenly on your heel and surprising the person tailing you