Racial Diversity In Modeling

[Prymasquous]

Pretty sure there are diverse casts elsewhere of smaller brands too...

 

[_incognito]

Almost 50% of the models at Diane von Furstenberg were women of colour. One of the best casts, for sure.

 

[Edie123]

Almost 50% of the models at Diane von Furstenberg were women of colour. One of the best casts, for sure.

Always is. Edward Enninful is the stylist on the show.

I was thinking today how there hasn't really been a black model make it to the top level, where you have staying power, since Joan and Jourdan (correct me if I'm wrong). That's terrifying!

Of the current crop, I'm really hopeful for Lineisy and Tami. But, I thought the same of Imaan and I feel like she's losing a bit of momentum. It's so depressing how quickly a black model is replaced by another black model. There's already less of them, and then their careers are shorter too.

I can't say I follow Asian models in the same way...is it the same for them too?

 

[nataliaapple]

^Very true.

Mara Hoffman was very diverse. So was Derek Lam, Tome & Tracy Reese.

What I find interesting is when designers of color like Jason Wu, Cushnie et Ochs and Public School, to name a few, barely use models of color. I really don't understand the reasoning there when you have Riccardo Tisci, DVF and others embracing diversity.

 

[Littleathquakes]

^ I've been saying that about the likes of Alexander Wang too. He had such a momentous opportunity helming Balenciaga to really shaking up Paris, but was always a disappointment, both there and in his own line.

 

[Edie123]

^The sad thing is, whenever the lack of diverse casts are discussed, the answer is always "we need more people of colour in the decision making positions." It feels even worse when it's designers of colour, and they don't cast models of colour. It feels like such a slap in the face.

 

[anlabe32]

I can't say I follow Asian models in the same way...is it the same for them too?

Yes. Only Liu Wen, Fei Fei, Xiao Wen and recently Issa made an impact in high fashion.

Shu Pei, Tao and Soo Joo went into the commercial market but I guess are having a hard time there as well.
Then a lot of models fell off the radar after a few seasons of walking shows, like Tian Yi, Chiharu, Sung Hee, Ji Hye and currently Luping, Dylan Xue and Jing Wen.

Luping is seriously the most gorgeous one i've seen yet so I want her to stay. I instantly loved Dylan and she had support from Prada and A. Wang, even starring in his campaign and in Coach by Meisel, but she slowed down last season and this season is only doing B-list shows so far and hasn't had print or campaign work either for the last couple of months.

I kinda disagree with you about Imaan. I feel that, in the short amount of time she's been here, made a huge impact, not only as a model but also as a role model to many girls who admire her and her looks. American Vogue cover and Givenchy and Calvin Klein campaigns, plus commercial giants as Target and Tiffany... i'm sure she'll stick around for a long time especially if she manages to walk VS again this year.

 

[anlabe32]

I was thinking today how there hasn't really been a black model make it to the top level, where you have staying power, since Joan and Jourdan (correct me if I'm wrong). That's terrifying!

BTW, lets not forget Binx, who's really one of today's super stars. Aya Jones and Tami are doing great as well and Leila Nda, Kayla Scott, Ysaunny, Kai, Anais Mali are still very visible on the runways, though not as much as we would like, and in print (e.g. W Mag and Vogue Italia).

 

[Edie123]

^You're right about Binx - I thought I might be forgetting someone! There are definitely girls like you've mentioned who are having solid careers and girls with serious potential. But of the one's you've listed only Binx has reached that top level where she is, like you said, one of the super stars.

I think Imaan is spectacular. Maybe, I didn't expect the drop off on the runway to be so sudden. It certainly felt like when Aya started booking a lot more shows, Imaan started booking a lot less . Maybe her agency are steering her in a certain direction, but I thought she'd be more of a runway staple. It'll be interesting to see what happens to her this season.

Definitely gonna try and keep an eye out for more Asian models this season (Luping is a stunner!). I just get fed up seeing girls fizzle out so quickly. I'm still not over Nyasha disappearing but who knows what happened there.

 

[miwa]

^You're right about Binx - I thought I might be forgetting someone! There are definitely girls like you've mentioned who are having solid careers and girls with serious potential. But of the one's you've listed only Binx has reached that top level where she is, like you said, one of the super stars.

I think Imaan is spectacular. Maybe, I didn't expect the drop off on the runway to be so sudden. It certainly felt like when Aya started booking a lot more shows, Imaan started booking a lot less . Maybe her agency are steering her in a certain direction, but I thought she'd be more of a runway staple. It'll be interesting to see what happens to her this season.

Definitely gonna try and keep an eye out for more Asian models this season (Luping is a stunner!). I just get fed up seeing girls fizzle out so quickly. I'm still not over Nyasha disappearing but who knows what happened there.

At the same time when Lineisy popped up Aya started booking less shows. Plus Malaika Firth's downfall was also contributed by Imaan and Aya. It's extremely sad, but this kind of rotational trend doesn't seem to affect Asian models as much, as you have the three tops mentioned above and the others try to make a breakthrough but ultimately fail.

 

[_incognito]

Tommy Hilfiger featured more black models than I've seen him do in the past! I'm sure the 'island' theme of the show had something to do with that, but still quite lovely!

 

[Vinciano]

I'm having a different view of this season. I know it's early, but I'm encouraged by the numbers so far.

Lineisy leads with 9 shows, and Alice Metza and Amilna Estevao are right behind with 8. All three girls are only booking top shows. That puts them near the very top of the amount of shows walked so far.

Aya isn't doing less shows. The only show she lost from last season was Jason Wu. She's walked Altuzarra, Derek Lam, Diane von Furstenberg, and Prabal Gurung....all of which are shows she didn't walk last season. Most of the shows she booked last season haven't come up yet, so if anything, she's doing better. And of the six shows she walked so far, Lineisy has been in five of them so I don't think Lineisy's rise will lead to Aya's demise.

Imaan has never walked a lot of shows. She's never gone above 30 in a single season. She's definitely on pace to have her best New York fashion week ever. Tami is also on pace to walk more shows than last season.

Hope these trends carry over to Europe.

 

[nataliaapple]

BTW, lets not forget Binx, who's really one of today's super stars. Aya Jones and Tami are doing great as well and Leila Nda, Kayla Scott, Ysaunny, Kai, Anais Mali are still very visible on the runways, though not as much as we would like, and in print (e.g. W Mag and Vogue Italia).

I agree, the ones you listed are all doing great, but who really knows them outside of fashion? Joan & Jourdan are more known to a bigger audience.

 

[nataliaapple]

^The sad thing is, whenever the lack of diverse casts are discussed, the answer is always "we need more people of colour in the decision making positions." It feels even worse when it's designers of colour, and they don't cast models of colour. It feels like such a slap in the face.

Huge slap.

 

[miwa]

I'm having a different view of this season. I know it's early, but I'm encouraged by the numbers so far.

Lineisy leads with 9 shows, and Alice Metza and Amilna Estevao are right behind with 8. All three girls are only booking top shows. That puts them near the very top of the amount of shows walked so far.

Aya isn't doing less shows. The only show she lost from last season was Jason Wu. She's walked Altuzarra, Derek Lam, Diane von Furstenberg, and Prabal Gurung....all of which are shows she didn't walk last season. Most of the shows she booked last season haven't come up yet, so if anything, she's doing better. And of the six shows she walked so far, Lineisy has been in five of them so I don't think Lineisy's rise will lead to Aya's demise.

Imaan has never walked a lot of shows. She's never gone above 30 in a single season. She's definitely on pace to have her best New York fashion week ever. Tami is also on pace to walk more shows than last season.

Hope these trends carry over to Europe.

I was also pleasantly surprised to see Lineisy open two shows. Usually there's this trend of not letting models of color open or close shows. Liu Wen has opened just a couple of shows in her entire career.

Knowing Milan and Paris' track record it will probably get worse, but let's hope for the best.

 

[woemwoem]

^ I've been saying that about the likes of Alexander Wang too. He had such a momentous opportunity helming Balenciaga to really shaking up Paris, but was always a disappointment, both there and in his own line.

This is not at all to make excuses but I think in some ways, the financial pressures on a designer of color is even greater than it is for a white designer. Let's face it, you are further marginalized and under a microscope as a designer of color and there are few opportunities for anything, so if you screw up once, there may not be a second chance. It's much safer to cast white models, so under that pressure, that's maybe why Wang, Wu, etc. don't have many MOCs in their shows. We all agree that MOCs face racism. You think designers of color don't experience it? Imagine how that affects you and the decisions they make.
It's great that someone like Tracy Reese and Vivienne Tam have consistently put MOCs I'm their shows but the fact that people talk about them for doing so rather than for their clothes goes against what designers ultimately want.

 

[nataliaapple]

Sophie Theallet's casting was next level.

 

[clayboy]

Abysmal diversity at Boss....

 

[dizzytacks]

This season is generally fantastic in terms of diversity. There is an incredible boost in the amount of girls and guys with varying pigmentation (opening and closing shows) and trans models without disclaimer! its fantastic and indicative of a shift in fashion!

 

[nataliaapple]

Abysmal diversity at Boss....

As expected.

Abysmal at Delpozo and Karen Walker as well.

And DKNY was known for it's extremely diverse cast. Guess that went out the door with Donna.