I love Richard but last season was weak and this is just.. .. I don't want to be too brain-limited and reduce this to a silly comparison but seriously, we saw it in Paris last season, it's too literal not to think about it. I expect a lot more from Nicoll than 'total inspiration' from someone that's probably just as talented as he is.
For AW09 Richard Nicholl created a collection that was steeped with a mystical and exhilarating sense of British romanticism.
But while lingerie-esque shapes fashioned out of luxurious fabrics in soft pinks, nudes, creams and greys may have been feminine, Nicoll's collaboration with Linder - an artist known for her punk classicism – gave his collection a sexy provocative edge.
Linder's prints – an array of 1950s pin up girls collaged against exuberant details of irises – were plastered on to skin tight dresses that featured built-in corsets and peek a boo tie up details down their sides.
Whether a clear plastic raincoat or a tailored jacket with striking gold leaf, Nicoll's outerwear was as irresistible as his underwear.
it's a shame...when you have British based designers, churning out collections for middle-eastern clients & their climates...some of it works, but there is no way this is aimed for the European stockists.
I need to process this a lil. Last season was an utter disappointment, this one is certainly better. I agree with Mullet it's looking a bit Paris/Margiela/Balenciaga last season but the results are appealing to me...the eroticism, the constructions, the geometric cutouts. Not a homerun but certainly lives up to my expectation.
Nowhere near his FW08 masterpiece though
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