Rick Owens F/W 14/15 Paris

[MulletProof]

Just to add more to the exchange of impressions here, I don't find the "cult" around him weird, I think by now Jason Wu's floral-wearing following is darker at heart through the nerve of their explicitness, whereas the sole action of disguising a need for status recognition under some pretense that campaigns for depth provokes in me the tenderness of the rebel at Hot Topic, in a mall, the irony. And yes, he sounds thoughtful in most interviews, and coherent, and less egomaniac in that infantile way most designers like to take. Yet he's the only one that really seems to believe shirtless Rick, the lifestyle, the myth, is worth a penny, and of course a sculpture. Oh and a pair of shoes.

I don't blame him for entering that slippery territory of sales where making a spoon, a table, talking about who you love or just taking your pants off might as well sound practical while trying to sell whatever it is your talent is about (should I just correct this with the esoterically astute 'natural expansion of the Rick Owens world that embraces everything Rick enjoys and wants you to enjoy too as a unit of the Rick world'), but I think looking like moron by the 12th attempt, especially when your own stunts have sucked the energy of the product you allegedly did them for in the first place, is the risk you take. He sounds confident enough to have figured this out on his own though, maybe that's why it's all so open now.. even in the way he designs...

 

[tangerine]

...
And if what you say is accurate-- that these designs are just Owen standards, then that makes this presentation even worse to me: That the casting was, once again, just a quick need to make some statement without putting in the work. Because, mature women don't look good styled as little girls...

OK, this is probably futile as I don't think we are seeing the same things, but I'll bite one more time; so you think that all of his designs have been aimed at making everyone, male and female, look like little girls? And it bothers you now because he is using "mature women"? Because the elements you mentioned have been present in all his men's and women's collections.

I also strongly disagree with you that Step had nothing to do with urban culture, but like I said, we seem to see things differently so I'll leave it at that.

MP, I am starting to get the impression you don't like Rick. I will only say that he is not the first designer to have a cult of personality so this is a personal "preference" of yours.

I guess the one thing we all agree on is that this collection came up short in the ideas department.

 

[Psylocke]

^^^ That's the problem with this presentation: the designs have nothing to do with the cast.

...

With the Owens Step cast, there is no connection between the cast and the designs. It was an unconventional and strong-looking cast, and I'm sure these women's energy and excitement were genuine-- but had they been replaced with a Japanese women's volleyball team in presenting the collection, it would not have made a difference since the collection had nothing to do with Step, or urban culture. It came of as gimmicky, and more than anything, thoughtless and poorly-conceived rather than a bold statement.

But that can be said about almost any designer nowadays. At least Rick Owens' casts have become more diverse, which is certainly a positive thing. And for instance, how does Giorgio Armani casting 65 bland fair-skinned European teenagers for his shows correlate more with what his collections are about than Owens casting mature women, or black step dancers, or veteran models?
Owens introduced his Adidas collaboration in his S/S collection, so clearly the idea of going into a sportswear direction was already there.
Yes, his castings come across as "statement casts", I agree about that. But that's only because all other designers fail at casting people for their shows that are somewhat reflective of their clientele or at least branch out of that idiotic idea that only pale tall underage models present clothes well.

Just to add more to the exchange of impressions here, I don't find the "cult" around him weird, I think by now Jason Wu's floral-wearing following is darker at heart through the nerve of their explicitness, whereas the sole action of disguising a need for status recognition under some pretense that campaigns for depth provokes in me the tenderness of the rebel at Hot Topic, in a mall, the irony. And yes, he sounds thoughtful in most interviews, and coherent, and less egomaniac in that infantile way most designers like to take. Yet he's the only one that really seems to believe shirtless Rick, the lifestyle, the myth, is worth a penny, and of course a sculpture. Oh and a pair of shoes.

Is it weird that, even before reading your post, when I thought of pretentious, self-obsessed designers, the first name that popped into my head was Jason Wu? I agree with parts of what you say here, though. I just don't think that the last sentence doesn't also apply to most other designers as well.

 

[Phuel]

OK, this is probably futile as I don't think we are seeing the same things, but I'll bite one more time; so you think that all of his designs have been aimed at making everyone, male and female, look like little girls? And it bothers you now because he is using "mature women"? Because the elements you mentioned have been present in all his men's and women's collections.

I also strongly disagree with you that Step had nothing to do with urban culture, but like I said, we seem to see things differently so I'll leave it at that.

1. I stated that the cast, Step and urban culture had no connection with the S/S 2014 collection.

2. I don't see where I accused all his designs make women and men look juvenile-- I only said this particular collection did. (And if I can expend on that, it also has to do with the styling.)

3. I don't see where I mentioned I'm bothered by a mature cast. I welcome it, as I do a models of different sizes and races. I just don't like when women are styled in a juvenile fashion, nor putting bigger women in ill-fitting clothes. HIs efforts have come across as gimmicks rather as a thoughtful progression of advancing individuality in the 2 presentations he's presented that I'm referring to.

Perhaps you should read my post again before pointing out accusations I did not make.

 

[tangerine]

Phuel, I am just confused by your repeated statement that the clothes made the women look like (seven year old) girls. It seems to me like code for "they are too old to wear clothes like this". I don't agree with that idea. But maybe I misunderstand you. It's not a big deal.

 

[Phuel]

But that can be said about almost any designer nowadays. At least Rick Owens' casts have become more diverse, which is certainly a positive thing. And for instance, how does Giorgio Armani casting 65 bland fair-skinned European teenagers for his shows correlate more with what his collections are about than Owens casting mature women, or black step dancers, or veteran models?

Psylocke: My problem with the last 2 presentations of his is that despite an impressive cast, the designs don't give me the impression-- and that's an important reminder, that it's my impression(since it's my post I hate writing IMO), no matter how genuine he may be with his intentions, that there's a cohesive and thoughtful relation to the cast and the designs.

My criticism is that the designs don't, and didn't look good on the cast: With the S/S 2014 collection, it was the fit. With this one, it's dressing and styling women that gives me the impression of a juvenile.

JUst because he's always styled his signature pieces in a certain fashion, does it mean he has to keep it the same when styling for a cast of older models? Of course older women, or bigger women can wear his designs, but they're not going to wear it in the same fashion as an eighteen-year-old, or a thinner girl.

I do agree with you to that models of different ages, sizes and races is a positive direction. But I don't think diversity in casting should give a designer an instant slap on the back. I much prefer a thoughtful, cohesive and strong collection with a cast that strengthens the designs and the designer's statement for that particular collection.

I simply don't think his last two collections had that. It came off as a gimmick to mask weak or redundant designs.

(As for diversity-- or the lack of, in casting by other designers, that's definitely a discussion for another topic-- and there are plenty of them here on TFS. For me, fashion presentations are really the only time designers get to express their pure vision, concept, ideal, etc. And if Armani wants to only present white girls, I feel that's his right. And as you feel designers are artists, then let them express their artistry in their ideal form-- even if you, or I, may not agree with it.)

 

[Psylocke]

My criticism is that the designs don't, and didn't look good on the cast: With the S/S 2014 collection, it was the fit. With this one, it's dressing and styling women that gives me the impression of a juvenile.

And that's where we don't agree, I guess. Which is fine, because it's just a personal opinion.
I completely fail to see how these designs look juvenile, or make the women look juvenile. And I disagree that they don't work on the models used in the presentation.

I found the S/S 2014 collection to have been ill-fitting on the used models, but the whole idea of designing comfortable leather clothes that allow those dancers to move and look good was probably too challenging. He took a risk, and it didn't work perfectly, but at least he tried.
With this collection, I did not get that impression of it being a failed attempt at all. But like you said, we apparently just perceive this very differently. I still think it's not very healthy to have such a typecast thinking where there is the idea of having to design for certain "groups". The reality is, most of the women wearing designer clothes do not have model measurements, and are not 14-year old white girls, and yet a hell lot of them still manage to look great, very often even better than the runway models. And there is nothing wrong with presenting clothes on more realistic looking people, knowing that the people looking at the images will probably be able to relate to them much better anyway.

And yeah, not trying to go into the diversity debate too much here. But I would still like to add that I do think people who try to change the industry standards do deserve a pat on the back, because clearly at least 90% of all designers/casting directors are still not willing to steer away from the insane standards we've had for way too long. A lot of people are tired of it and yet too many people are not doing anything to change it.

 

[iclawhands]

It's really lovely to see him going asexual and for every body shape and age. There's plenty of bodycon in the Owens showrooms; this feels like armour from the world, survival gear for whatever is to come, for every type of woman / man.

 

[donyan]

It's really lovely to see him going asexual and for every body shape and age. There's plenty of bodycon in the Owens showrooms; this feels like armour from the world, survival gear for whatever is to come, for every type of woman / man.

I agree, it's just good that somebody has the guts to say that the end customer might not necessarily be a catwalk model