Rick Owens Menswear F/W 2025.26 Paris

I think I realized I dislike it so much because he's trying to build off what he thinks "now" is. And I sense he does know some parts of now, but he's picking the most uncool bits of it to celebrate ... ? Or maybe I'm just in a different camp 🤷‍♂️

Edit: I do like the collars lol
 
This is so stiff and messy.

There are a few cool plisse? pieces - not sure what to call them but the strips of fabric or pleats on the cropped tops.

Overall there’s an attention to detail that I used to expect from Rick that’s not present here. It looks like this was put together last minute. Perhaps this is what Rick has evolved into but I don’t really recognize him in this even if there are some ok pieces.
 
90% of Rick I personally would not wear but from an artistic point of view I do admire and find cool even if it’s not for me.

With that being said, this show felt a little flat to me at first. Nothing really stood out other than the Dracula collars (which eventually became repetitive) and the big coconut tree looking boots.

But on second thought, maybe that’s okay??? Not every collection must reinvent the wheel. Rick enthusiasts typically buy a thing or two from new collections and incorporate into their existing Rick wardrobe.

There are some interesting textures but unfortunately they’re obscured by the fog so that doesn’t really help.

Funnily enough, before this some people complained his stuff was too crazy now and they missed earlier Rick that was more muted in color and was more about details and function. This isn’t exactly that but it probably is closer than it has been in last couple of collections.
 
Rick has gone the Rei way altogether and it doesn't look like we are gonna get the good old RO any time soon. He's like one of those loonies you meet on the street, talking to themselves and repeating the same things over and over. Like Rei, they use a private language of their own, they live in their own bubble, the rest of the world being a distant thought.
 
After taking another look and ignoring the set up and general mood of this there is more to love than I originally thought. The textures are beautiful and there are a lot more pieces that are, beyond the tired histrionics, beautiful and desirable. I’ve always been a huge fan of Rick but have been more and more put off by the sect-like feel of his presentations and collections. This collection for me feels like a step in the right direction, marred by the end-of-the-world aesthetics of the presentation.
He is still one of the greatest designers out there though, few can match his unique talent as a patterncutter and draper.
 
Brilliantly pessimistic and avant garde looks. The patterns and draping of the fabrics are incredible... too bad a lot of this will be hard to find around L.A. :(
 

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