The spring collection is named Faun (men’s and women’s collections have the same title) and references Claude Debussy’s L’après midi d’un faune – music I grew up listening to from a cultural period that became an aesthetic touchstone for me, encompassing cubism, Stéphane Mallarmé, Léon Bakst, the Ballets Russes and early-20th-century modernism. The legendary premiere of the ballet choreographed by and starring Vaslav Nijinsky was set to this music, and I was thinking of the storyline of the faun chasing the nymphs, climaxing with the faun masturbating over the scarf left behind by one of them. A primal moment captured in a stylised formal setting.
It was an historical moment of the new guard attacking the establishment – a dramatic display of something crude and barbaric that made what came before it seem dated and fussy.
Artifice and the id are a combo that informs almost everything I do, and I always think of the sculptor Constantin Brâncuși and performance artist Joseph Beuys to get there.