Rick Owens S/S 2021 Paris

[vogue28]

VOGUE.COM

 

[vogue28]

VOGUE.COM

 

[jeanclaude]

I have the feeling that Rick is having a fashion designer equivalent of the "writer´s block". Like he is walking on circles here.

Years ago his work was dynamic, you could see an evolution with each of his collections. In the last seasons I have felt he is stuck. In his online shop I have seen lots of basic and generic clothes, which are far from his playful garments and pattern experimentation. Too commercial for Rick!

And this collection looks like it has been made with remnants from his latest collections. It even feels like it has been made in a rush.

Come on Rick, go back to being the amazing designer you are!!

 

[bc collector]

If even Rick doesn't deliver, the season is officially a wreck.

 

[depordetioz]

masks look so organic here, it’s like they should have already been there in his collections

 

[dior_couture1245]

No. This looks like a second-rate designer who built their brand around doing Rick Owens-lite. I'm so done with this aesthetic from Rick. Time to move on, dude.

 

[Darko]

masks look so organic here, it’s like they should have already been there in his collections

Those masks will never be organic because we have mouth and a nose for a reason.

 

[reese06]

This feels so irrelevant and kind of pointless.
I agree that it feels rushed and seen before. I don't think he needed to show anything really tbh and would've been more cost efficient to not hold a show.

He could've just dropped more iterations of those boots, which I do think are fabulous but can already be retired.

 

[YohjiAddict]

I thought it was more than acceptable, it does feel a bit rehashed from Performa and Tecuatl but I wasn't expecting some great groundbreaking moment from him (or anyone) this season and anyways, he's made a habit of mining his ideas through many seasons.

There are some looks that I seriously liked, one would be the terracota cape with a bubblegum pink sequined skirt and matching boots, just gorgeous. The sheer pieces were also good. Even the masks made sense, for once.

 

[jeanclaude]

I have tried to watch the video of the collection...and all i could see is the Casino building, used as the set for the show, all the time!! It is exasperating!

What´s the point of recording a fashion show, if viewers are unable to see your clothes? I don´t want to see the stupid building, I wanna see your clothes in motion, Rick!

 

[MulletProof]

I have the feeling that Rick is having a fashion designer equivalent of the "writer´s block". Like he is walking on circles here.

Years ago his work was dynamic, you could see an evolution with each of his collections.

But you're talking years and years ago. Last time his work was good was.. when, fall 2009? that's 11 years. For the sake of being kind but not too kind calling it a writer's block as if he had ever created the equivalent of a literary masterpiece, I wouldn't quite subject him to nightclub/restaurant standards (do we say a business is having a 'difficult time' if it had 5 years of excellence followed by 11 years of the worst food/music/poseur population?) but would fragment his career in stages, and the richer one in terms of creativity and input is long gone, he's sort of been riding on the echos of that for over a decade now, building a solid preamble to what usually becomes the 'so over' stage that just makes you feel sorry.

 

[donyan]

I get the critiques, but this is miles above 90 percent of what I've seen this season. I'm not a client anymore as I used to be, but just looking at this gives me more emotion than almost everything else this fashion week. He's a master cutter , and I love the colour scheme, and although it does seem a little repetitive lately at least he has a clear point of view. There is real artistry and imagination here.

 

[WAVES]

it’s a safe Rick Owens collection. the ideas are there, the excellent cutting is there but feels like something is missing...

 

[jeanclaude]

But you're talking years and years ago. Last time his work was good was.. when, fall 2009? that's 11 years. For the sake of being kind but not too kind calling it a writer's block as if he had ever created the equivalent of a literary masterpiece, I wouldn't quite subject him to nightclub/restaurant standards (do we say a business is having a 'difficult time' if it had 5 years of excellence followed by 11 years of the worst food/music/poseur population?) but would fragment his career in stages, and the richer one in terms of creativity and input is long gone, he's sort of been riding on the echos of that for over a decade now, building a solid preamble to what usually becomes the 'so over' stage that just makes you feel sorry.

For me his last good collection was S/S 2018 (DIRT). That´s why I mentioned the "writer´s block".
The real problem begun when he became obsessed with Larry Legaspi´s work in F/W 2019...he launched a lot of basic and generic pieces from that moment on.

I consider his former work very interesting. He is not afraid to play with patterns, he is able to create his very own garments outside of a pattern-making book (something that very few dare to make).
And I also love his "perfect imperfections", the brutalist way his clothes are sewn (with absolute disregard for puckered seams, for example). It feels wild and gives a sense of freedom from a creative point of view.

And I hope he doesn´t degenerate into a commercial designer with an "avant-garde" aura surrounding him (like Raf Simons).

 

[WAVES]

his S/S 2020 was brilliant. those pharaonic/ alien gowns coming down the stairs and the sequins looks! gorgeous.

 

[Lola701]

I don’t know, I expected something different...Maybe a reset! I wanted maybe a more sensual Rick, like the old days. I miss Rick’s interpretation of Madame Grès or Madeleine Vionnet...Something more intimate, emotional.

This is very strong but too performative. I love Rick but not this season!

 

[Avonlea]

There is too much going on. Lots of overworked, ill fitting garments. Maybe he should take a break.

 

[mepps]

I've never gotten the hype for this guy.
Everything is the same year after year, season after season.
Basic is not bad, but at his prices it's obscene.

 

[GivenchyAddict]

I don’t know, I expected something different...Maybe a reset! I wanted maybe a more sensual Rick, like the old days. I miss Rick’s interpretation of Madame Grès or Madeleine Vionnet...Something more intimate, emotional.

This is very strong but too performative. I love Rick but not this season!

One of the only time I enjoyed Rick was when Carine used to wear a lot of his pieces. Rick Owens is a really "sensual" brand. He knows very well about fitted clothes, perfect fabrics. I will never forget his tenure at Revillon (and always dreamed of seeing him at Hermès or Fendi...).

 

[dior_couture1245]

^^Rick at Revillon was a dream.