Rick Owens S/S 2024 Paris

A *GREAT* (planned) production/show setting, but unfortunately extremely pure executed. These yellow/fuchsia dim effects clearly has been very unfriendly to the models' eyes, resulting in a few tripping and what not. (Btw, the - very well paid, I know this firsthand! - Getty photographer also made a HUUUGE rookie mistake, taking pictures of the models in these effing lights, instead of a (clear) Lido as a backdrop , putting a priority rather on the *atmosphere*, than the collection itself - which was pretty descent/regular/consistent Rick Owens, if you ask me.

However…

"I still believe in love…" :heartsuit:
 
The last few looks are soooo pretty I love the Venetian color palette. The set and music were also gorgeous. But he is kind of such an ***hole making the models walk down those steps with those shoes and outfits, and then at the end he takes double steps up the stairs in his platforms
 
Really, with the utmost respect for Rick and his history, I think he is becoming a bit formulaic...the jutting shoulder pads, the orthopedic-looking footwear, the Palais de Tokyo as a set, the foggy effects...I have a feeling he's kind of following a Yohji trajectory where his work is always engaging from a technical point of view but hardly fresh to look at.
Or maybe, at this stage in his life, he's more interested in enjoying his relationship with his "stylist" than pushing himself further professionally.
 
I love the idea and aesthetic of these like techno Bene Gesserit warrior queens cascading through a futurist Alma Tadema universe, but that was painful to watch. “Let’s do pink smoke! Let’s do yellow smoke! Let’s do petals! Let’s do dramatic stairs, wind machines and impossible platform heels and constricting skirts…let’s definitely not do stair railings or ushers for the models though.” Poor girls, they must’ve been scared to death.
 
I'm such a sucker for his Dune/Cyberpunk aesthetic. I can't help but love it. I love EVERY. SINGLE. THING.
 
So painful to watch but Look 2 was really fabulous…
I love Rick but I’m less and less thrilled by what he proposes.

I’ve said that a lot recently but the huge success and the fact that his work feeds the success instead of challenging it makes it looks like a caricature. The sense of individuality in Rick’s aesthetic is just now « Edgy fashion fan starter pack ».

‘You want to prove to the world that you are into fashion? Wear Rick Owens! You wants to prove that you are at the higher level, wear this, Kiss boots included of course.
 
Some gone with the wind fabulous fabric flowing here.

It's too hard to sit through a Rick Owens show because of how difficult it is for all the models to navigate the pieces with those shoes. Love the red and the terracotta, but the majority of this is just the same thing as usual. As provocative and "avant-garde" this may seem, it actually feels very generic. A lot of designers are doing their own variants on these silhouettes, and particularly the shoes. All a walking cliché even if some of it is beautifully executed.

I wonder if he has the awareness of what he has kind of become. He's either accepted that he's bit of a parody of himself and a parody of what a designer is with the way things are going, or his ego is just feeding itself without realising due to the adoration and fan service.
 
I have been sick of Ricks look ever since it became thee hairstylists go to brand in Manhattan.
 

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