Rochas S/S 2022 Paris

Hilariously tragic and horrendous. Looks like a Frankenstein interpretation of Bertrand’s Schiaparelli.
 
You think that with a brand that need to sell their RTW again like Rochas, they will go with the direction of Courrèges. Good quality, easy clothes update from the archives. But no, we have this mess.

This is what happen when we have a designer that have ideas but don't know when to stop, so he just put everything into together. If he wants to succeed he needs to learn how to edit. The first look came out and it already too much. And the styling didn't help either.

I only like look 9 and 10 they are just enough.
 
Being this delusional should be a crime. This collection is just so tragic, full of unnecessary details and silhouettes. Charles doesn't even know when to stop and to be honest, I can't even blame him for that because he's got zero experience. That being said, I wish this brand had been just closed. There are Rochas fragrances out there, they are rather successful and that's enough. The suits have no clue what to do with the brand, so they picked this nepo-designer out of the blue to get some hype. But people won't care about this trash.
 
This is not really Rochas for whatever that means and I didn’t know what to expect…
But I like it!

I don’t think at this point Rochas has an aesthetic printed in people’s mind so why not do something else. I mean a lot of designers have tried the Jolie Madame/Bourgeois stuff and it still has not worked.

This is essentially the first time we are seeing « real clothes » from him.

I’m far more impressed by this than by anything he has done yet. And there are some impressive dresses here.

Let’s say that I haven’t been that impressed by skills from this new guard of designers. From Jacquemus to Virgil Abloh or from Kim Jones to a lot of others, all I have seen is a lack of confidence both in tailoring and dressmaking.

Sûre, there are a lot of gimmicks, the bags weren’t needed and the boots turned the whole thing into a kind of costume territory but the clothes moved well, the cast was clever and I got the message. Plus, there were a lot of cute pieces that I wouldn’t mind wearing or even buying…

I’m curious to see what is next and more than that, how/ if the marketing will follow and really come together to create some sort of coherence for all of that.
 
I like it too. I like that it's like nothing else, a little raw, unexpected, and it has personality as opposed to just being more 'product'. Rochas didn't really mean much to me before, but this has potential in that it seems its' own thing.
 
He's certainly presented worse collections for his own brand but that doesn't make me appreciate what's going on here, very tricky and made to shock. I'll certainly miss Dell'Acqua
 

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