Rochas Ss05

[pradaromance]

I love the suits very wearable...i need that cropped jacket and pencil skirt suit with white one with the electric blue flowers

 

[faust]

Originally posted by Spacemiu@Oct 10 2004, 09:55 PM
may be, but I think the investors and what not are puting alot of pressure on him to make it commercial.

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That's what I think too, it's only natural to assume that, knowing Olivier's talent.

 

[mikeijames]

Originally posted by Lena@Oct 11 2004, 02:24 AM
i think this is his best collection for Rochas to date

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really? i thought that he made much larger strides in last spring's collection than in this one...i mean the suits ARE perfection, but where's that quirky artist peeking through (as erin wasson described it in some video somewhere)...i thought there could be something to add that theyskens mystique to this otherwise staid (but perfect!) looks

 

[Spacemiu]

Originally posted by Scott@Oct 10 2004, 08:03 PM
Don't get me wrong,I love this sort of "Hitchcock" style he does, but it needs some tweaking now and again if he wants to keep it a signature style.

exactly

it's to bad the first collection was so good and very exiting , now it feels all driblled down, the evening gowns are nice though

 

[Meg]

I actually feel this collection is quite different. The shapes are a little tigther and slimmer. I agree with others who say that this isn't as good as a/w 04 but I still think this is quite a nice collection. When people look at this collection only within the context of Rochas they might be disappointed but compared to other collections it's fab. Either way-I like.

 

[Lena]

for me Theyskens is not what he was pre-Rochas.
i never liked his work for Rochas, it always seemed stiff and nervous to me,
but i can see him relaxing into his new desk creating a collection that
doesnt compare to his old -pre Rochas- style, but regardless...
like meg said

but compared to other collections it's fab

Suzy Menkes reporting from IHT , she's 'accusing' him for not following the 'volume' trend.. well, he did this seasons ago, he's moving on to something new.. i cant see why he should be doing what everyone else's been doing

At Rochas, Olivier Theyskens has already created codes for the house that fit into the parameters of prettiness. That means a Janus-faced innocence, where a modest dress turns to reveal what appears to be a closure left gaping with visible bra fastening. (But of course it is an intentional effect worked with couture precision into the gown.)
.
Theyskens also now needs to move forward on the aesthetic he has already established: the veils of lace - this season over black and white silk splashed with green; the narrow fragile silhouette, which could have used some plays on volume that are on other runways. But the Rochas collection had some delightful decoration, mostly absorbed into the fabric, so that a suit would be deliberately puckered, drapes on a black dress softly subtle and a lattice of Xs worked into the fabric down the spine. The lingerie references at the heart of the collection might seem familiar, but there is something charming and original about Theyskens work that is giving Rochas a delicate touch.

 

[MulletProof]

 

[Scott]

What is so trendy about volume this season? That mainstream designers are now doing it? I don't get this as I've been seeing this technique for ages....and with Theyskens its always been a trademark.

And what is going on with Suzy Menkes in that article? She sounds like an editor of Vogue or Bazaar....

I never thought I'd read her saying somebody should follow somebody else's work. Let alone some trend.

 

[brian]

Originally posted by Lena@Oct 11 2004, 01:24 AM
i think this is his best collection for Rochas to date

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as do i...

 

[softgrey]

personally...i'm with suzy...i liked it better when he played with proprtions and volume...i felt that it had become a trademark of the house that he had established from the beginning...and i was looking forward to seeing it continue and develop...

the narrow , tight suits look like straightjackets to me...hideously uncomfortable and restrictive...you couldn't pay me to wear one... .?


and i'm not fond of the prints or the green...

 

[softgrey]

what's the use of being on the cutting edge all the time..if you don't cash in on some of your own ideas?...why not at least do the volume that we have all come to expect...but then do another section where you explore newer ideas... then you satisfy your creativity and the commercial side...

i think that that's why i hate marc jacobs but why he is actually so successful...
because he never takes any risks...and none of his ideas seem to be original...look at him jumping on the marni-train right now...why?...because it's about to hit in a mass way...while the more fashion forward people have been dressing like that already...the masses are about to pick up the trend ... even bcbg is doing it...and marc jacobs is right there...

the trick is not to be ahead of the pack..the key is to be on target...with an eye for what's coming next...marc jacobs understands this only too well...

i think rochas would have exploded if he had done a follow-up to fall 04...oh well...
*sigh*

 

[streetsaremyrunway]

i think this collection is beautiful and more wearable than the last, i love it

 

[Spike413]

Hmmm, still too similar for my taste. I think he definitly has talent, and the clothes are very beautiful, but I want a bit of variety from season to season. I do like that floaty black gown however. I hope next season he breaks out of the lady-like shell he's put Rochas in.

 

[datura001]

a beautiful show with even better music...would anyone have any idea what the quirky piano solo that played throughout is by?

 

[pradaromance]

I love the use of coral on the clothes

 

[meowmix]

i it... although the 'ladylike look' seems to be everywhere lately, this collection is clean, simple yet very elegant and sophisticated. just beautiful...very soothing for my poor eye

 

[saturnine]

Always beautiful, feminine and elegant.

 

[LibertyRose]

I agree, this is a shockingly commercial collection from Olivier. But when your job is to revive a brand and you've raised its profile (Elvis's women wore Rochas gowns on the cover of US Vogue!) with truly unique and indentifiable designs, it just seems like a logical extension to make pieces that share the same design philosophy but more wearable than previous seasons. It's like, "Yes, I've heard of Rochas and admire its luxurious gowns, but now finally it is making something that suits me." From a business stand point, it makes sense. Though Olivier may not be entirely happy about the creative limitation, he might do something bold next season after cashing in right now.

In his defense, you cannot say that he has not differentiated at all. From whimsically volumnious to razor-sharp, he's crossed quite a spectrum.

This is almost Gucci-like:

And this is couture-quality:

I do think this is his best collection to date. He's refined his signature pieces to a tee:

 

[LibertyRose]

And these are new:

So good, I'd wear them myself if I have the chance.

 

[Scott]

All I can say is,that I much prefer the Theyskens/Rochas "lady" to the Prada lady.