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Rodarte: Trekking up to East 79th Street is a haul-and-a-half in the middle of an overstuffed fashion week, especially to see a collection that's only three seasons old. It speaks volumes, then, that retailers such as Julie Gilhart and Linda Fargo made the journey for Rodarte. And designers Laura and Kate Mulleavy didn't disappoint. Picking up where they left off last season, they revisited their pinked and frilled cocktail dresses and evening gowns. Loose chiffon strips, running the length of some looks, undulated and fluttered like sea kelp as models walked — an intentional and intriguing visual trick. It was lovely on the waisted sheaths, but read as fussy on the skinny pantsuits, an idea that Stefano Pilati successfully toyed with at YSL last season. Such intense detail — including the twisted and bunched rosettes that beautifully crowded the back of a long white number — takes patience and incredible effort, something the Mulleavys must have in spades.
Kate and Laura Mulleavy, 26 and 24, respectively, are the fresh-faced Californian designers behind Rodarte. Judging by the talent they showed in only their second New York Fashion Week show, it's easy to understand all the brouhaha surrounding this sister act. Rumor has it that they were literally hand-plucked by Anna Wintour to become Vogue darlings. The fall collection was as light as a feather and pristine as a white gardenia. Each piece was lovingly handcrafted with ethereal embellishments: scalloped edges, ruffled trims and willowy petals. The preciousness of the collection was somewhat intimidating –- we would be terrified to spill even a drop of red wine on any of these garments. In the end, though, these clothes are beautiful and bring to mind a Georgia O'Keefe flower.
CAROL LEE