Roksanda Pre-Fall 2015

marcBarna

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By Samantha Conti
All of designer Roksanda Ilincic’s signature plays on volume and texture were out in force in this feminine pre-fall collection influenced by the organic lines of sculptor Richard Serra and the cutouts and collages of Canadian artist Laurie Kang.

Ilincic worked with bouclé, transforming it into thick, ruffle-front sweaters and dresses with an abstract mustard, olive green and purple design inspired by one of Kang’s works. She also whipped up ethereal dresses in pink silk organza with delicate, frayed fringing at the front and small Perspex appliqués. The fringing appeared as well on the elegant bell sleeves of a silk jacket.

Using leather for the first time, Ilincic created a feather-light pink dress with pleats lined in orange and lavender silk, the pleating so light it fluttered as the model walked. For evening, she turned out voluminous silk skirts and dramatic gowns with stripes reminiscent of Serra’s work.



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Pleasant to see how she's quietly and consistently refined her aesthetic while still pushing it further in terms of colour combos and plays on silhouette. I enjoy this a lot even if her colours might not be everyone's cup of tea, there are a lot of tasteful choices to be had here that would leave bigger houses like Valentino or Dior look stuffy and old - I'd much rather see this on real customers, if I may add that.
 

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