S/S 2012 Buyers Reports

[kimair]

all from wwd, starting with nyc...

Retailers Cite "Safe" New York Season

Good, but not spectacular.

That was the verdict from retail executives and fashion directors on the spring collections, which ended here Thursday. Designers revisited many of last spring’s greatest hits, punching them up with bright colors and a profusion of prints. The bottom line is that it will sell — a key point in these uncertain economic times.

“New York went safe, but that’s what we need to drive business in an economy that’s a big question mark,” said Barbara Atkin, vice president of fashion direction at Holt Renfrew. “I would have liked to see a little more pushing of the envelope at the designer end, but I don’t think this is the time to show clothes that are so new. When you start to change things too drastically, you scare the customer. It was fine. It wasn’t breathtaking.”

Still, there was a certain amount of reinvention, if not sheer newness.

For spring, the jacket means business — literally. “We believe the jacket is coming on strong, and it’s not the traditional black blazer,” said Frank Doroff, vice chairman of Bloomingdale’s. “It’s been reinterpreted in prints. Olivier Theyskens’ Theyskens’ Theory must have had 25 new jackets in the collection. There are sporty versions like the summer parka. This could spawn a new business. There’s been such a preponderance of dresses, it’s good for us if sportswear comes back.”

Kelly Golden, owner of specialty store Neapolitan Collection of Winnetka, Ill., said the idea of a parka or anorak over a cocktail dress or evening gown “is a new fresh update that will give my clients a reason to buy. It’s probably something that’s not in their closets.” And consumers need reasons to buy apparel these days.

“The customer has become very savvy,” said Ken Downing, senior vice president and fashion director at Neiman Marcus. “It’s about finding very special things. She’ll absolutely pay the price for very special things. She doesn’t want anything she already has in her wardrobe.”

Jim Gold, president of specialty retail at The Neiman Marcus Group, said while consumers are responding to unique pieces, they are still cognizant of prices. “The price-value relationship is critical,” Gold said. “Whether it is a $250 item or a $3,500 item, the price must be justified by the quality, exclusivity and design.”

“I don’t know that our customer comes in to the store looking at price, but it has to be worth it,” said Susan Davidson, chief executive officer of Scoop. “When the stock market has a tough day, customers hold back a little bit. I do think that they’re a little more cautious.”

Here’s what else retailers had to say about the spring collections:

Daniella Vitale, chief merchant and executive vice president of Barneys New York:
Trends: Perforation, handled in extremely sophisticated ways — sporty at Alexander Wang and decorative at Derek Lam. An abundance of sweaters, reflecting the need for this category going into summer.
Sound off: I continue to be concerned that consumers are buying closer to need. Collections should reflect these changes. Seasons shouldn’t stifle creativity. A consumer should be encouraged to buy an incredible knit in January because she knows she can wear it right away instead of seeing 20 varieties of shorts she knows she won’t need for months.

Liz Rodbell, executive vice president of merchandising at Lord & Taylor:
Trends: Color, the athletic influence and prints, from Michael Kors’ “Out of Africa,” Donna Karan’s Haiti and Mara Hoffman’s Mexican-influenced blanket patterns.
Rationale: We’re picking what we love, but making sure it makes sense. If consumers are going to pay more for an item, they want it to have the right components.

Jeffrey Kalinsky, executive vice president, designer merchandising, Nordstrom:
Top collections: Jason Wu, Oscar de la Renta, Marc Jacobs and Rodarte.
Trends: Over-the-top prints, femininity and strong color.
Ones to watch: Prabal Gurung this season proved himself with exquisite fabrics and gorgeous prints.

Colleen Sherin, senior fashion director, Saks Fifth Avenue:
Top collections: Oscar de la Renta, Derek Lam, Diane von Furstenberg, Marchesa, Theyskens’ Theory, 3.1 Phillip Lim, Rag & Bone, Ralph Lauren and Marc Jacobs.
Trends: Color, urban sport with perforated mesh fabrics, vests, hooded jackets, asymmetric skirts with drawstring details, racer-back tanks and scuba inspirations. Prints in black-and-white and color-blocked effects and peplums.

Linda Fargo, senior vice president fashion office and store presentation, Bergdorf Goodman:
Trends: Bright, citrus flavored colors, iced pastels, unexpected color-blocked mixes. The floras and far-flung prints of Africa, Polynesia and bird motifs, sport references, leather items and special eyelet fabrics.
Ones to watch: Jason Wu, Joseph Altuzarra, Thakoon, The Row, Rodarte and Cushnie et Ochs.
Top collections: Helmut Lang, 3.1 Phillip Lim, Rag & Bone, Alexander Wang, Rachel Zoe, Kelly Wearstler, Diane von Furstenberg, Theyskens’ Theory, Proenza Schouler and Naeem Khan.

Nicole Fischelis, Macy’s group vice president and fashion director:
Trends: Prints from Forties-influenced prints to giant or exploded florals, colorblocking, piping and striping. Athletic outerwear, the jacket in fabulous new colors. New wrinkles for dresses such as asymmetry, body-hugging and the new transparency. New fabric mélanges with woven materials mixed with knits.
Top collections: Michael Kors, Donna Karan, Prabal Gurung, Edun, Derek Lam, Doo.ri, Alexander Wang, Rachel Roy, Diane von Furstenberg with new creative director Yvan Mispelaere and BCBG Max Azria.

Ken Downing, Neiman Marcus:
Top collections: Joseph Altuzarra, The Row, Derek Lam, Marc Jacobs, Theyskens’ Theory, Proenza Schouler, Michael Kors, Donna Karan, Alexander Wang and Victoria Beckham.
Ones to watch: I like the direction of Wes Gordon. We’ve done a few trunk shows with him and the collection is moving forward in a very positive way.
Trends: Bountiful color and prints, scuba or sport references with hooded poncho and anoraks, the closer-cut jacket, bold and colorful pants and printed pants. Navy as a neutral and navy played against strong color and neon as a contrast.

Barbara Atkin, Holt Renfrew:
Top collections: Altuzarra, Donna Karan, Marc Jacobs, Zero Maria Cornejo, Michael Kors, Victoria Beckham, Rag & Bone, Alexander Wang, 3.1 Phillip Lim and Rachel Zoe.
Trends: We know our customer is starting to embrace color. Crazy color was the new spin. The below-the-knee dress is a new silhouette, the wide long fluid or pleated palazzo pant has a retro Hollywood glamour.
Sound off: On the runway there’s always the category of tailoring, but we didn’t see much of that. We hope to see it in the showroom.

 

[kimair]

next milan...

Optimism in Milan, but Caution Too

Pleased with what they saw on the runways here, retailers are optimistic about spring — but the economy still has them hedging their bets.

While noting the luxury business is still showing momentum, retailers said they are alert to economic and currency volatility, and prepared to turn on a dime.

“Like everyone, we are watching the market very closely,” said Sarah Rutson, fashion director at Lane Crawford, Hong Kong. “I am sure there is not a retailer out there who is not mindful of what is happening and reviewing the runway buys to hold back on a portion of planned purchases in light of being prudent with these later deliveries.”

A strong selection of dresses — from Twenties flapper styles to hourglass Fifties silhouettes — anchored a confident Milan season.

Other strong trends included bold colors and patterns; scarf prints and handkerchief hems; sporty blousons and bombers; and a return to the skirt, from pencil-slim to full and knife-pleated.

Standout collections for buyers included Prada, Jil Sander, Marni, Bottega Veneta, Gucci, Dolce & Gabbana and Etro.

“Milan has delivered a powerhouse of ideas, and despite the gloomy economic forecast, spring 2012 collections have been positive, upbeat and optimistic,” said Barbara Atkin, vice president, fashion direction at Toronto-based Holt Renfrew.

“It’s hard to leave Italy without applauding its signature of world class craftsmanship and the modern evolution on heritage,” said Linda Fargo, senior vice president, fashion office and store presentation at Bergdorf Goodman.

Following are some retailers’ reactions to the Milan collections:

Mikhail Kusnirovich, chief executive officer, Bosco di Ciliegi and president, GUM, Moscow:
Sound off: Our sales so far this year for autumn-winter are up 25 percent versus last year. We are quite optimistic. I’m not sure how long it is going to remain as comfortable as today, but we remain positive for the next few months. Outerwear, of course, is still a very big part of the allocation, but our accessories projects are also growing very well, with shoes, bags and scarves performing very well.

Ken Downing, senior vice president and fashion director, Neiman Marcus:
Sound off: Nothing makes a retailer happier than runways full of appealing color, beautiful prints and lots of femininity. It’s nice to see a continuation of the dressed-up spirit on the runways of Milan. I am excited to see that designers made superlative efforts to add special touches, details and craftsmanship to make beautiful clothes.
Trendspotting: Gymnasium and sporty ideas; pleats and fluidity; color, from pinks to oranges to beautiful shades of blue and even icy sorbet shades; black and white.
Favorite collections: Prada, Jil Sander, Bottega Veneta, Aquilano.Rimondi and Pucci.

Barbara Atkin, vice president, fashion direction, Holt Renfrew, Toronto:
Sound off: We are planning single-digit growth for spring 2012. Our open-to-buy is planned to be nimble in order to react to either growth or a softening of the business.
Trendspotting: It is clear that the lady is back in town, from sexy signorinas to polished mid-century ladies, exuberant flapper girls and those wild-at-heart deluxe hippies. With the abundance of sheer bandeau tops and retro-inspired swimwear and bodysuits, we feel the lingerie category will be explosive.
Favorite collections: Prada, Fendi, Etro, Aquilano.Rimondi, Dolce & Gabbana, Jil Sander, Marni, Gucci and Giorgio Armani.

Colleen Sherin, senior fashion director, Saks Fifth Avenue:
Sound off: Overall, there was an emphasis on real clothes on the runways.
Trendspotting: The Twenties was the decade of choice, with flapper and graphic Art Deco references, followed closely by the Fifties, with a focus on ladylike dressing. I like the two contrasting dress silhouettes we’ve seen in Milan: straight and linear with a dropped waist, or with a nipped-in waist and fuller skirt. An icy pastel palette colored the catwalks, with pretty shades of pale blue, butter yellow, pink and mint green.
Favorite collections: Prada, Etro, Bottega Veneta, Jil Sander and Marni.

Linda Fargo, senior vice president, fashion office and store presentation, Bergdorf Goodman, New York:
Sound off: We’re flattered. Many of the Italian designers appeared to have a love affair with American iconography — from the Chrysler building to the Jazz Age, Hawaii and hot-rod culture — but filtered through luxe Italian style.
Trendspotting: We found Milan ripe with compelling product and a powerful mix of commercial and editorial ideas. Like New York and London, color and exciting prints were the most clear trends. We continue to buy the most special pieces here, as our clients respond to emotional product.
Favorite collections: Jil Sander, Prada, Etro, Pucci, Missoni, Marni and Aquilano.Rimondi.

Tancrède de Lalun, general merchandise manager, men’s and women’s apparel, Printemps:
Sound off: We are very pleased with this season. It’s very feminine and subtle and will make women want to renew their wardrobes. Our business at Printemps Haussmann is doing very well. We are going to stick to our budget target, without committing the entire amount right away, so we are being cautious but we remain optimistic.
Trendspotting: Dresses and skirts with Fifties-style nipped-in waists and pleated A-line skirts. Lots of white and powdery pastel shades.
Favorite collections: Prada, Jil Sander, Gucci, and Dolce & Gabbana.

Sarah Rutson, fashion director, Lane Crawford, Hong Kong:
Sound off: We are very fortunate in our part of the world. The last year has brought Lane Crawford considerable double-digit growth. We have confidence in our market of Hong Kong and China, but of course we must be mindful of possible rumblings due to the global market.
Trendspotting: The strongest have certainly been about the Fifties/mid-century. A very dressed elegance is key to Milan. We have seen a lot of pleating, fringing, 3-D lace, colorful prints, bejeweled embroidery and crochet. Dresses are important, and there’s a real return to the skirt, be it a full skirt or a longer-line pencil skirt, often paired with a cropped, fitted knit, a cropped top or a Fifties bikini top. The Twenties trend is something that we won’t touch on a great deal. The Fifties and Sixties work so much better at retail.
Favorite collections: Jil Sander, Prada, Marni, Bottega Veneta and Dolce & Gabbana.

Jennifer Wheeler, vice president of women’s designer apparel, Nordstrom:
Sound off: While we are mindful of the economic challenges facing all of us, our business continues to be strong, and we have had no indication that it is slowing down. Our budgets will continue to reflect the positive momentum we are experiencing.
Trendspotting: Milan gave us strong color and beautiful prints, which are things the customer will love. All the great dresses and the new plissé and mixed-print skirts will be winners for sure. There was a thread of unity in the collections reflecting the Fifties and early Sixties, both in silhouettes and styling.
Favorite collections: Prada, Jil Sander, Marni and Roberto Cavalli.

Stephanie Solomon, vice president of fashion direction, Bloomingdale’s:
Sound off: At a time of economic doom and gloom, it’s ironic to see so much optimism on the catwalks. I kind of want to sum up the whole week with the phrase: happy days. The weather was fantastic and so were the runway shows.
Trendspotting: Scarf prints are the essence of the season — from the standard status scarf to florals to artist-inspired to ethnic-inspired. I don’t think I’ve ever seen a season filled with so many wonderful prints. This should boost accessories, too. If you’re going to invest in a print, the first purchase you’re going to make is a scarf.
Favorite collections: Marni, Prada, Etro, D&G, Giorgio Armani and Jil Sander. I also liked Bragia in the showroom.

Cindy Ho, fashion director, 360 Style Kuwait:
Sound off: We have the same flat budget as last season, but we are trying to choose only the pieces we strongly believe in, and to not buy too deep. We always aim to give our clients as many choices as possible. I will definitely opt for the mix-and-match trend, but I will also be very careful with the price range.
Trendspotting: I really liked how all the fashion houses mixed and matched the fabrics, carefully calculating the different flow of the materials.
Favorite collections: Bottega Veneta, Prada, Gucci, Jil Sander and Marni.

Antonia Giacinti, owner, Antonia, Milan:
Sound off: This season started very well. We reopened the store at the end of August, and our most loyal customers immediately came to pick their favorite items. To be honest, we haven’t felt the crisis, and have not been forced to cut our budgets. Of course, we never buy big assortments, because we sell high-end products and our clients always want to purchase things that make them feel special and unique.

Amanda Brooks, women’s fashion director, Barneys New York:
Sound off: It’s important for us to be conscious of price points. If a woman won’t buy five things but only two, what will they be? Great investment pieces, or pieces you just can’t live without, like lustworthy items. Exclusivity is most important for us in this climate, not only exclusive brands, but also exclusive looks within a brand.
Trendspotting: There was definitely a return to femininity. The silhouette was closer to the body, and the shoes especially were more feminine, with the return to single soles. We are glad to see some shoes under $1,500. There was also lots of embellishment, and more decoration than we are used to seeing.
Favorite collections: Jil Sander and Marni.

 

[kimair]

finally, paris...

Buyers Stick to Budgets After Strong Paris Season

Retailers arrived at the end of the marathon of international collections with their measured optimism intact — despite punishing heat in Paris and a stream of sour economic news.

“We are still experiencing a strong business trend and our job is to fuel that trend cautiously,” said Barbara Atkin, vice president, fashion direction at Holt Renfrew, Canada. “The good news is that Paris has delivered a fresh new season of lighthearted, gentle clothes enriched with intricate, couturelike craftsmanship. Anything too hard-edged, dark and somber seems out of step.”

“Our business so far remains very promising, but we are also cautious about what may happen in the coming months,” added Cindy Ho, fashion director of 360 Style in Kuwait.

Many buyers cited flat budgets, while praising a season where safe and salable took priority over runway fireworks.

“Strong fashion brands are still strong. Many brands are still growing, even in Japan,” said Takehiko Furuya, director, operating officer and general manager of the women’s department at Matsuya Co. Ltd. in Tokyo.

While fears of a dip in China manufacturing have dented stock markets, Sarah Rutson, fashion director at Hong Kong-based Lane Crawford, cited “constant” growth through August, September and the first days of October, in all its locations.

“There is a strong reason to continue our faith in the strong market of China,” she said. “We are buying with confidence and conviction based on the dialogue of something new to say to the customer.”

Buyers cited an array of appealing trends and items, including fuller skirts, silky blouses, lace, sheer fabrics, peplums and a preponderance of white and icy pastels. Top accessories trends include flat shoes — especially in white and silver — and envelope clutches, often oversize.

Among collections widely lauded by retailers were Celine, Dries Van Noten, Chanel, Valentino, Junya Watanabe, Alexander McQueen, Haider Ackermann and Stella McCartney.

Here’s what retailers had to say:

Jeffrey Kalinsky, executive vice president of design, Nordstrom, Seattle:
Sound off: Our overall business and our designer business both remain strong, and our budgets for Paris remain unchanged. There seemed to be couture influences in all of our favorite Paris collections, and this mixture of art and commerce really got us excited.
Trendspotting: Color — either vibrant or soft — and prints will drive our business next season in separates and dresses for day, as well as for night.”

Ken Downing, senior vice president, fashion director, Neiman Marcus, Dallas:
Sound off: Despite the news that’s in the headlines, customers continue to be very enthusiastic about beautiful clothes and relevant trends. The sophisticated, polished elegance we saw for fall — which is strong at retail — is continuing here in Paris.
Trendspotting: It’s a gorgeous season here. We are loving the transparency; how it’s being interpreted in such a sophisticated way. It’s interesting to see all the volume happening with peplums and fuller skirts: bias cut, pleated or with gathers.

Takehiko Furuya, director, operating officer, general manager, women’s department, Matsuya Co. Ltd., Tokyo:
Sound off: Everybody did a good job, with plenty of beautiful clothes, but nothing really made a huge impact. It wasn’t a very entertaining season. Collections were clean and beautiful, but safe.

Nicole Fischelis, group vice president and fashion director, Macy’s, New York:
Trendspotting: Feminine, fuller skirts, with tons of pleats; full pants, short shorts and track pants; the new tuxedo on the old interpretation; the deconstructed, elongated, sleeveless blazer; the baseball jacket; the amount of new types of shirting and shirtdresses, and the importance of the dress.

Barbara Atkin, vice president, fashion direction, Holt Renfrew, Toronto:
Sound off: The unbearable heat wave that we experienced this week only stands to remind us that unpredictable weather patterns will force the industry to look differently at seasonal deliveries, requiring clothes to be designed with “seasonless” fabrics in a “buy now, wear now” mentality.
Trendspotting: Feminine dresses, lightweight toppers and jackets, romantic blouses, pleated skirts, fluid trousers and soft, lightweight suits are on our must-have list.

Sarah Rutson, fashion director, Lane Crawford, Hong Kong:
Sound off: Emotion is everything and Paris delivered intelligent, emotional, desirable and wearable clothes.
Trendspotting: We are delighted with the new language of femininity — lace, sheers, pleats and peplums — with a sense of precision. Dresses continue as a key category, but the skirt returned in force down runways.

Tancrède de Lalun, general merchandise manager, men’s and women’s apparel, Printemps:
Sound off: Compared with 2008-09, when we experienced the first economic tremors, we still have time to be cautious with our budgets. We are ready to cut them if needed, and we are focusing on star products like the dress. It was quite a pretty season overall.
Trendspotting: White, black and pastel shades; fluid, feminine textures; peplums and frills.

Averyl Oates, buying director, Harvey Nichols, London:
Trendspotting: We were treated to plenty of fresh, crisp whites alongside softer, more whimsical utilization of the color. This was in stark contrast to New York and London’s heavy use of tropical and digitalized prints. Kanye West’s debut offering was another hot topic. He may have received a less-than-warm reception for his undertakings, but it has certainly got everybody talking.
Sound off: Paris has showcased some exquisite handwork and creativity, from some of the most influential brands in the world, and I always leave with a sense of beauty and a sense of optimism for the season ahead. My only complaint was the dry dust from Les Tuileries — I arrived at many of the shows with half the Parisian garden in my shoes and on my feet. The heat and delayed show starts were a little challenging at times, too.
Favorite collections: Haider Ackermann, Celine, Isabel Marant, Giambattista Valli, Givenchy.

Colleen Sherin, senior fashion director, Saks Fifth Avenue, New York:
Sound off: There was the idea of the dressed-up lady, with Fifties couture inspirations. And then there was a more urban, sporty mood, with designers taking inspiration from athleticwear.
Trendspotting: There was an air of lightness, with translucent layers of sheer fabrications — organza, gazar and silk chiffon — reflecting the romantic mood of the season. Pleating, peplums, ruffles, and flounces were among pretty details seen throughout.

 

[softgrey]

thanks for posting this kim...
interesting read...

 

[lakomka]

Can anyone please post FW 2012/2013 report?