S/S 2024 & Pre-Fall 2024 Open Discussion Thread

[vogue28]

The schedules for New York, London and Milan are now up and pinned at the top of Designers & Collections. Paris will, of course, be uploaded upon its release at a later date.

The schedule for Paris Fashion Week is up, and now attached at the top of Designers & Collections!

 

[LadyJunon]

We have lots of returns (Margiela, Mugler) and newcomers (Peter Do, Marni) at Paris this season:

Marni, Maison Margiela and Mugler Among Highlights of Paris Provisional Calendar
Other high points of the 108 events taking place between Sept. 25 and Oct. 3 are the return of Carven, as well as the arrival of Casablanca and Kiko Kostadinov on the womenswear schedule.

By LILY TEMPLETON
AUGUST 28, 2023, 10:10AM

PARIS — With August’s hot spell finally receding, it’s Paris Fashion Week that is heating up with the publication of the provisional schedule by the Fédération de la Haute Couture et de la Mode on Monday.

Slated to run Sept. 25 to Oct. 3, the spring 2024 season in Paris will feature 67 runway shows and 41 presentations, all relayed digitally through the federation’s web site.

Among the highlights of the season is Marni’s first Parisian show, a continuation of the brand’s series of itinerant shows that started in New York in September 2022, said its chief executive officer Barbara Calò.

The show will be held on Sept. 27 at 1:30 p.m.

“Traveling the world allowed an intimate dialogue with our audience of friends and customers, in line with the objective that we have defined at the beginning of this journey,” she said, noting that the previous iterations “showcased Marni’s current vision in the world and upon the world,” an initiative that was “appreciated by the creative community surrounding the brand.”

In a statement sent to WWD, creative director Francesco Risso described the brand’s ongoing traveling showcases as “a dérive that found us under a bridge in Brooklyn last fall, a paper colosseum in Japan this February; but which started in 2020, when we couldn’t leave our homes at all, but had to leave behind the way we thought about fashion shows forever.

“These departures were never about a destination — so if this season is something of a return — it is not to where we started,” he continued, calling Paris “a city well suited to flaneurs like us.”

The nine-day schedule will also see the return of Mugler, Maison Margiela and Carven, as well as Casablanca and Kiko Kostadinov switching over to the women’s calendar.

Eager to seize the cultural moment and support its burgeoning international business, Mugler will be back onto the Paris schedule with a show on Oct. 2 at 6 p.m., easing up on the see now, buy now strategy it had pursued in recent years, followed by Maison Margiela’s 7:30 p.m. show.

Returning to the Parisian runway after a five-year absence, Carven will be unveiling the first collection of creative director Louise Trotter at 10:30 a.m. on Sept. 30. The British designer was named to the position in February after wrapping up a four-year stint at Lacoste.

The French label, now under the umbrella of the ICCF Group which also owns Chinese label Icicle, reopened its flagship store in its original Rond-Point des Champs-Élysées location in 2021.

After making her debut off-schedule last season, Belgian designer Marie Adam-Leenaerdt will be opening the spring 2024 season at 4 p.m. on Sept. 25 as part of the official calendar.

The luxury cornerstones of the Parisian schedule will keep to their traditional slots, with Saint Laurent on Sept. 26 at 8 p.m.; Balmain the following day also at 8 p.m.; Stella McCartney and Louis Vuitton on Oct. 3 at 10 a.m. and 2:30 p.m. respectively; and Chanel and Miu Miu on the final day, at 10:30 a.m. and 2 p.m. respectively.

Also making their Parisian debut this season are New York-based Peter Do and Dutch designer Duran Lantink, who made a name for himself with his upcycled patchworking of different designer items and was one of this year’s ANDAM Prize winners.

Their shows be at 10 a.m. on Sept. 26 for Do and at 4:30 p.m. on Oct. 3 for Lantink.

Shanghai- and New York-based designer Caroline Hu, Australian designer Christopher Esber, Spanish label Paloma Wool and 2023 LVMH Prize finalist Quira, designed by Veronica Leoni, will be staging their first on-schedule presentations for spring 2024.

Also returning this season to presentations are South Korean designer Kiminite Kimhekim and French outerwear specialist Aigle, designed by the Etudes trio of Aurélien Arbet, Jérémie Égry and José Lamali.

Absent from this season’s lineup is Ester Manas. The brand is “taking this unique opportunity to capitalize on the momentum generated by a special year of milestones, including collaborations and awards,” which included an ANDAM prize, said Manas and partner Balthazar Delepierre in a statement. They plan to “consolidate our strengths and channel our creative energies into a new and expanded collection for March 2024.”

The final version of the calendar is expected the week of Sept. 11, according to the French fashion federation.

Mugler is switching back to a more traditional collection model, starting with a SS'24 show at Paris this October, in order to scale their business:

EXCLUSIVE: Mugler Says ‘See You Later’ to See Now, Buy Now Model
The fast-growing French fashion house is back on the Paris Fashion Week calendar for a spring 2024 show on Oct. 2.

By MILES SOCHA
AUGUST 28, 2023, 10:36AM

PARIS — Eager to seize the cultural moment, and support its burgeoning international business, Mugler is stomping back onto the Paris Fashion Week calendar, easing up on the see now, buy now strategy it had pursued in recent years.

The Paris-based fashion house is on the provisional schedule to unveil its spring 2024 collection on Oct. 2, part of a broader effort to scale up the business.

Led by its creative director Casey Cadwallader, Mugler plans to develop and sell four collections a year, including two new pre-collections, while reserving the see now, buy now tactic for select product drops and collaborations.

“It’s the opportunity for us now to really reassert ourselves amongst some of the bigger players in the industry,” said Mugler’s managing director Adrian Corsin, disclosing the changes to WWD in an exclusive interview on Monday. “We’re a brand that’s in full progression.”

Launched in 2020 in tandem with a focus on online distribution, Mugler touted its see now, buy now strategy as a way to exalt the brand’s commitment to female empowerment, and its brand DNA, via fierce, trans-seasonal fashions.

Corsin lauded the approach for “allowing you to be really close to the consumer. Also you get to test in real time what is working and what is resonating with the customer,” he said in an interview at Mugler’s new offices on the Rue Notre Dame des Victoires, where photos are still propped against the wall, waiting to be hung.

But as Mugler accrues a growing number of wholesale clients, particularly in Asia, it was time to evolve the business model in line with its peers — one that will allow Mugler to scale the business, he explained. Its new headquarters, located over three floors, will dedicate one to a showroom.

Corsin noted the brand has been growing at double- and triple-digit rates the past three years, and now counts around 150 retail partners.

The executive said Cadwallader is on board “250 percent” with the new collection and show configuration, noting that one of the challenges of the see now, buy now model is creative: developing a collection that is sold six months before being presented on a runway, or unveiled via a fashion film.

Corsin described Mugler as a brand that has always been “obsessed with culture, and culture in the moment, in the now. So when you are developing the collection six months before [presenting], it’s a little bit harder to be in that now moment.

“And creativity is something that’s so important to us — imagination, fantasy, creativity and constantly pushing the boundaries,” he added.

Jacquemus is one of the most prominent European fashion brands pursuing a see now, buy now model. Tom Ford, Tommy Hilfiger and Ralph Lauren are among designers who have also dabbled with the format in recent years, with Hilfiger being the only brand of the three that continues to use the format on a regular basis.

Corsin stressed that Mugler isn’t “rejecting” see now, buy now, but evolving it to selective use — if the brand were to launch a skiwear capsule, for example.

“There might be moments when we might re-explore a film for a specific launch or specific capsule. And there’ll be moments where we’re gonna be exploring physical,” he said. “I think it’s about what feels right in that moment.”

Mugler’s last big event for a collaboration was a blowout fashion show and music concert last April for the launch of its H&M collaboration.

The executive called the project a “blockbuster success. We sold out within one day. It really brought awareness of the brand to a whole new clientele and whole new generation of people.”

Source: WWD

 

[Nimsay]

So far the best are RL, Prabal Gurung and Tibi. Good runners up; Ulla Johnson Jason Wu and Khait.

 

[vogue28]

Think it's safe to assume we can expect florals at Michael Kors:

 

[LadyJunon]

Dilara Findikoglu is had cancelled her show at London Fashion Week, probably because of financial reasons:
London's Buzziest Young Designer Is Sitting Out Fashion Week

This might throw her out of the running for Alexander McQueen, which is good.

 

[Nimsay]

I meant to post my NYFW rankings here. There are too many threads to keep up with casually.

Overall best - Naeem khan

displayed skill embroidering and seaming fine delicate fabrics. No silhouette misses at all. Nothing new though; its Elie Saab through a NY lens.


best
RL
MK
P Gurung
J Wu
P Lim
Tibi
Ulla Johnson
Badgley Mischka


mid
Area
Rodarte
khaite
Anna Sui
Laquan
Brandon


flop
G Hearst
T Burch
Coach
Christian Siriano
H Lang
Proenza
Collina Strata
Staud
Altuzarra
Dion Lee

worst flop
Elena Velez - for producing terribly made clothes and trying to pass it as deconstructed.

 

[vogue28]

Balmain collection hijacked and stolen:

 

[callmejaeden]

Saw this on twitter earlier and its honestly so random? Why would someone want to pull off such a large obviously planned operation?

 

[Cocteau Stone]

Odd turn of events, and rather out of the blue... Has this happened before at other design houses on this scale? Wonder if it was Tyrone who orchestrated this; probably got jealous of Olivier's growing friendship with Rick Owens (I kid, I kid).

We shall see come the showing if the collection was worth stealing I suppose.

 

[tourbillions]

this reminds me of the movie where a full rack for a collection got stolen... very that. Sarah burton for balmain pls

 

[HazJW]

I meant to post my NYFW rankings here. There are too many threads to keep up with casually.

Overall best - Naeem khan

displayed skill embroidering and seaming fine delicate fabrics. No silhouette misses at all. Nothing new though; its Elie Saab through a NY lens.


best
RL
MK
P Gurung
J Wu
P Lim
Tibi
Ulla Johnson
Badgley Mischka


mid
Area
Rodarte
khaite
Anna Sui
Laquan
Brandon


flop
G Hearst
T Burch
Coach
Christian Siriano
H Lang
Proenza
Collina Strata
Staud
Altuzarra
Dion Lee

worst flop
Elena Velez - for producing terribly made clothes and trying to pass it as deconstructed.

Still making my way through the collections, have only really seen NY and London, but so far

Faves:
Jason Wu
Bibhu Mohapatra (needs way more love on here)
Ralph Lauren (the beads bring it down a bit)

Good:
Khaite
Private Policy
Michael Kors
Matty Bovan (if I have to fall on my sword as the forum's sole Bovan defender then I will. if you think of him more as a surrealist pop art/found art collagist, then his stuff starts to make more sense)
JW Anderson

Boring but competent:
Carolina Herrera
TIBI

Good but flawed:
Pamela Rolland
Tory Burch
Proenza

Poor:
Burberry
Dion Lee
Whensmokeclears

Got lots to catch up on though, so this will change!

 

[SpeakThatJDunn]

Gemma Ward has been flown from Australia to the Four seasons Milan! Sounds like an exclusive to me.

With Prada off the table, I'm guessing Gucci with Daria?

 

[Nimsay]

London FW

Best
Jw anderson
Simone rocha


Mid
Burberry


Bad
Di pesta
Doro olo
Conner ives
Edline lee

 

[LadyJunon]

Saint Laurent on Tuesday:

 

[HazJW]

I don't get presentations like Diesel or Elisabetta Franchi. Who genuinely thinks this



is classy? Even Jersey Shore types aren't going clubbing in environments that look like this, and they're not wearing these clothes to do it. Who is it ... for?

 

[LadyJunon]

FYI, you now have to pay to see runway pictures on Vogue Runway.

 

[callmejaeden]

For me I can still view them on the website and the app?

 

[MyNameIs]

Is it just me or are we seeing more designers pivot in the more fitted direction with their collections from the loose and shapeless stuff that's dominated the last few years?

 

[HazJW]

For me I can still view them on the website and the app?

Same.

 

[LadyJunon]

For me I can still view them on the website and the app?

Same.

Really? Every time I switch to a new page, they ask me to subscribe for €1/month.