Sabato De Sarno - Designer

[LadyJunon]

I feel the aesthetics was "very now" last September though, for a couple of days, then the effect was washed out by the rest of Milan and Paris fashion weeks, and definitely over by Oct. 1st 2023.
Because of their relentless campaigns (and that redundant menswear show), I feel already overexposed to Ancora and honestly tired, the whole Ancora is already dated in my mind, it's time to move on ...
I am not interested in seeing more of Ancora (and it has not reached the stores yet).
De Sarno is not very talented, but not very toxic neither, so I wish him to be able to evolve ...

To be honest, outside of Saint Laurent, Kering, as a whole, has sort of become this weird amorphous blob of high fashion defecation.

 

[Frederic01]

BOF

 

[LadyJunon]

BOF

As I said on another thread, Kering's corporate meddling over Sabato's tenure leads to Gucci talking a lot, but saying absolutely nothing of value.

 

[yslforever]

The handbags forums are extremely angry about the Ancora Jackies; the newest versions have a simple lobster claw hardware instead of the distinctive piston clasps. The bags ladies are irritated, to say the least.

 

[Frederic01]

Does anyone have a transcript of the full article from Business of Fashion by any chance? It would be an interesting read!

 

[tigerrouge]

The handbags forums are extremely angry about the Ancora Jackies; the newest versions have a simple lobster claw hardware instead of the distinctive piston clasps. The bags ladies are irritated, to say the least.

I'm not surprised. The cheapening of hardware is something so many companies think they can get away with.

People with long memories (and buying histories) don't appreciate yearly price increases in return for "gold-tone hardware" that's so cheap it looks like coated plastic - or the replacement of a traditional design feature for reasons that'll benefit the company more than the purchaser.

On the Jackie, they've downgraded one of the visual signatures of the bag into the type of clip that people use on a dog's collar.

 

[yslforever]

I recall 12-15 years ago an interview of the then Bulgari CEO, before LVMH, in the financial press, announcing they will stop to polish the backcases of their gold watches, for cost-cutting reasons and because noone will notice it.
I thought it was just some dumbs moves, to do it in the first place and to proudly announce it. So now I watch carefully all those moves, like changing the clasps, removing the feet of a bag, Loewe Puzzle becoming Loewe Puzzle Edge etc etc ...
So many downgrades everywhere but always with inflated prices...

With Gucci, it's so flagrant I don't know how the general public doesn't seem to care...

 

[Nimsay]

gucci has never been primo quality even with TF it was on par with american labels like CK.

Rich people who shop these brands alone and think forever 21 is face surgery.

 

[plentyofhorns]

The handbags forums are extremely angry about the Ancora Jackies; the newest versions have a simple lobster claw hardware instead of the distinctive piston clasps. The bags ladies are irritated, to say the least.

The new Jackie looks positively pedestrian for $3200. Who the hell decided to remove one of the only identifying features of their best-selling bag? This brand is beyond help

 

[susseinmcswanny]

I thought I have definitely seen Jackie bags with that regular lobster clasp before. It may be to cut costs but I don't think it's an out of left field design decision

 

[tourbillions]

will take it over 6k burberry bags

 

[yslforever]

I thought I have definitely seen Jackie bags with that regular lobster clasp before. It may be to cut costs but I don't think it's an out of left field design decision

Yes there were Jackies with lobster clasp and bamboo handles, but the handbags forums consider the piston hardware as a distinctive upgrade, quite unique to Gucci, the return to the lobster clasp is a downgrade in their opinions.
Those were released last week along with the Ancora RTW, so I suppose it was De Sarno's decision.
Gucci has both designs right now but the piston ones will be progressively phased out (as well as the Marmont).

 

[StylishCynic]

Yes there were Jackies with lobster clasp and bamboo handles, but the handbags forums consider the piston hardware as a distinctive upgrade, quite unique to Gucci, the return to the lobster clasp is a downgrade in their opinions.
Those were released last week along with the Ancora RTW, so I suppose it was De Sarno's decision.
Gucci has both designs right now but the piston ones will be progressively phased out (as well as the Marmont).

What's notable is that the Dog Leash Clasps are only available to purchase through a Gucci Client Advisor.

They're trying to make the SS24 update feel more exclusive and justify the price while trying to sell through remaining inventory of the Piston Closure in a way that doesn't confuse clients or erode the marketplace value of the Jackie by discounting the Piston.

Reminds me of when Dior caved and finally added a crossbody strap to the Saddle Bag reboot after making clients purchase a $1,200 strap for years.

 

[susseinmcswanny]

That just hit me the small Jackie is $3200?? I feel like I remember a time where it'd be maybe $1000 and the blinged out one would be $4-5k but now it's $14,000?? This has gone so far it's legitimately cringe. I don't understand how the bubble hasn't popped. Like it has to. There's no way. Or maybe it'll just float away.

 

[jeanclaude]

The best versions of the Jackie are the ones from Tom Ford (s/s 99 and f/w 99-00)...and they can be bought for less! Love the grey velvet one:

scontent.flpa1-1.fna.fbcdn.net

vtgmuse.com

 

[Kennnnn]

That just hit me the small Jackie is $3200?? I feel like I remember a time where it'd be maybe $1000 and the blinged out one would be $4-5k but now it's $14,000?? This has gone so far it's legitimately cringe. I don't understand how the bubble hasn't popped. Like it has to. There's no way. Or maybe it'll just float away.

The prices of those bags are just extortionate

 

[LadyJunon]

Does anyone have a transcript of the full article from Business of Fashion by any chance? It would be an interesting read!

Here's the transcript: there's nothing here that we don't already know from the numerous WWD articles in the past six months.

Burberry and Gucci: Two Brands With Something to Prove This Week

Both labels are trying to reignite sales and push upmarket, but convincing consumers won’t be easy. Runway shows this week will be another chance to make their case. That, plus what else to watch for in the coming days.

By ROBERT WILLIAMS, VIKRAM ALEXEI KANSARA
18 February 2024

Burberry and Gucci, which both show this week, have a lot to prove. Both labels have underperformed their peers for years and are betting on “brand elevation” strategies and designer resets to boost results. So far, they have provided case studies in how hard shifting consumer perception and pushing a brand upmarket can be, especially in a tough market where luxury demand has slowed.

At Burberry, it’s unclear whether the brand can command the price points that Daniel Lee’s looks require or whether the designer can adapt his vision to the label’s current reality. What’s more, while the brand has found some fresh, more elevated ways to tap into the “Britishness” of its DNA, much of what it has released recently has been too niche and complicated a take on what makes Britain desirable for most Burberry shoppers. Will the upcoming show click?

Meanwhile at Gucci, Sabato De Sarno’s palette-cleansing debut in September (an approach that was “mirrored” in his first men’s outing in January) helped put the brand back on the radar, but there wasn’t enough newness to generate the kind of heat the label needs to kick things back into gear. De Sarno’s collections have been precise, sexy and youthful, but have thus far failed to tell a story about what the new Gucci stands for. The designer needs to show he can do more than create desirable clothes. After the Alessandro Michele boom (and subsequent stagnation), what Gucci needs is a more stable but equally desirable brand story.

Source: BoF

 

[NoInvite]

"Follow your heart"
i guess this is the invite

sources : Gucci and @brendahashtag

 

[thiago:)]

That's a very bad typography choice.

 

[Lola701]

The best versions of the Jackie are the ones from Tom Ford (s/s 99 and f/w 99-00)...and they can be bought for less! Love the grey velvet one:

scontent.flpa1-1.fna.fbcdn.net

vtgmuse.com

They were fun! Carlyne Cerf has a whole collection of those TF’s era Jackie.

My favorite ones, and they are probably the best Gucci bags ever for me that I would never get rid of are the Jackie from Frida’s fall 2014 collection. And all the bags from that collection were outstanding.
It’s pity Alessandro era’s killed the longevity of those bags because it was Gucci at it best in terms of luxurious bags.