Sabato De Sarno - Designer | Page 14 | the Fashion Spot

Sabato De Sarno - Designer

Its Frida Giannini that moved the creative studio to Rome, historically it has always been in Florence, I don't see what Rome has to offer these days, such a dislocated city;
Rome looks very provincial imho, for a capital city it's especially sleepy and not vibing...
 
I mean… Rome is closer to Florence.
I don’t think Alessandro Michele would have designed and produced his first collection without that huge advantage.
I understand why moving to Milan for a company like Gucci. It has a deep sense of emergency in terms of buzz even if Rome can be stimulating for a creative soul too.

Gucci stories are exhausting. I want to know when Michele is going to Fendi.
 
Rome looks very provincial imho, for a capital city it's especially sleepy and not vibing...
Might be, but it's largely irrelevant from a creative point of view, otherwise all designers based in London or NY should be brilliant - and they obviously aren't.
I agree with @Lola701 that there can be something deeply nurturing in the sheer beauty of the place and also its slower pace can be an advantage for a creative mind (the role of Rome in the history of fashion has somewhat been obscured by the myth of Milan, but Valentino lived and worked there, with Capucci, Lancetti...kind of old school but greats nonetheless. And let's not forget Piccioli too).
Michele's aesthetic was inextricably linked to Rome's genius loci, more than Giannini's, IMO. Also think of Dries, who has always chosen to stay away from the hubbub of Paris and kept living in Antwerp, a beautiful city but barely a cultural center...
I really don't understand what the protest of the Gucci employees is about at this point, the design studio has moved so many times already (Ford had it moved from Florence to London, then back to Florence with the interim, Rome with Giannini and Michele...).
On the other hand, I understand that moving again the studio to Milan might be based on operational reasons (closeness to manufacturers etc), but I hardly see any source of inspiration in Milan's drab Viale Mecenate, where the Gucci HQ are based.
 
Gucci and Kering are exhausting. But, to be very honest, this probably has to do with cost cutting more than anything. But it is very understandable that many people do not want to move. Their lives are there in Rome. And it's not like there is no way to commute. All three cities are very accessible by train. Milan itself, while is great for business operation, is very drab and dry. Maybe it's fitting for the new Gucci. Their shopping bags are already turning grey from green.
 
The evening dresses will look nice on individuals on the red carpet and at parties but the presentation is a tad bit confusing.
 
Gucci Via Montenapoleone in Milano has just re-opened. I guess this is what the stores will look like going forward. Pretty bland if you ask me.

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GUCCI
 
it looks outdated as well. Brushed metal panels as interiors are overused and generic nowadays.
Even a train station has them.
Yeah it already looks outdated. Terrible selection of furniture and boring, generic art.
Zero brand identity, could be any store really.
It's a no for me. Say what you will about Peter Marino but interior architect is a serious job for a reason!

Only positive is that they refrained from using that ancora red for the most part.
 
Yeah it already looks outdated. Terrible selection of furniture and boring, generic art.
Zero brand identity, could be any store really.
It's a no for me. Say what you will about Peter Marino but interior architect is a serious job for a reason!

Only positive is that they refrained from using that ancora red for the most part.
There’s a whole hall of red Jackie bags on Ancora red walls.
But I agree, it’s generic in every aspect, especially the art curation.
Looks like the script was « 2017 Deluxe Zara »
 
The irony is that Zara, when they started their expansion 20 years ago copied the store design of Gucci by Tom Ford stores… Now, Gucci stores will look like a slightly upscale Zara store.
For me the colors have a very IG appeal but I don’t think the client experience or the wow effect are there.

The colors are reminiscent of the FW2023 show. I wonder how much Ancora man was involved in it.

And I’m confused by the Ancora looks… Are breasts supposed to fit in the burgundy leather bra?
 
Ok theyre doubling down on the Blade inspiration. This looks like a supervillain lair where theyre planning their next move.
 
Also, where is the Pre-Fall collection? I’m so curious to see his follow up and some menswear pieces.
 
His Gucci is probably one of the worst rebrands of all time. It's so offensively "nothing." And yet there is so much fanfare and self generated hype...for nothing! I never want to hear the word Ancora ever again. I can't stand this new thing designers do talking about their inspiration being "ALL ABOUT LOVE AND INDIVIDUALITY AND CONNECTIVITY" and then the clothes are absolutely void of any personality or spark. Get real.
 
The store is so generic.

This homogenization of boutique design with luxury brands is depressing. The mannequins on those cold marble floors do nothing for the clothing. I kind of expected something dark and moody, rich. They have an opportunity with the Ancora but it would be dead on arrival if they just use white/grey marble. The art is bland.

No wonder Alessandro was not willing to pivot if this was the result that the suits wanted. Good for him standing on business and leaving.

I don't see Sabato lasting and I'm not fully invested in seeing where he takes the brand. I'm more interested in Tom Ford's progression as a brand.
 

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