Saint Laurent Menswear S/S 2022 Venice

[Lola701]

Seriously, this screams lack of confidence…
He should have done Chanel jackets for men.
It’s so awkward and badly styled. I know YSL is Celine direct competitor but in menswear, it’s not even a match.
I would never advise to any man to go to YSL under Vaccarello for clothes.

 

[MulletProof]

I would be so scared that even one unimportant person saying,your collection looks slightly like this and that...but whatever

ha, I love that you center yourself in this seemingly plain predicament he's in but that is actually complex human behavior that goes past his field (fashion).. cause.. I can't help it either . I find his work enjoyable, mostly when he explores his own interests that have nothing to do with the basic and trite work of Slimane (like his F/W 2020 collection) but usually, both campaigns and collections spell out so shamelessly 'I am the usurper and I get paid for that and that's fine with me' that it just triggers some level of stress that I'm not sure it's just second-hand embarrassment, second-hand embarrassment usually involves lack of awareness on the person that is directly embarrassed but this is so.. okay with it?, like submissive and proud? I'm the rebound person and dressing up like the ex and guess what, I still won here. It's somewhere between infuriating and incomprehensible without ever being important enough to fall fully into any of these two. It's like his consolation and source of energy and success is not on what he does or why or how he does it but the indisputable fact that someone lost (gone, dethroned, whatever) and it wasn't him. It's hard to understand because the world seems split between these two types really (those whose identity seems non-negotiable and those who will play anyone just to get some luv haha) but yeah, I'd build a cave and hide for days every time I'd have to show something like this.. but... if he ever writes a self-help book on the Impostor Syndrome, I'll be the first in line..


Anyway, I kind of enjoyed the music.. but also, I only watched it by compulsively pressing the right arrow. The clothes scream 2015 or older..

 

[mepps]

It's absolutely hideous from start to finish, and the "models" are ghastly.

 

[YohjiAddict]

Too try-hard...the salsa dancer shirts are vomitive, Hedi would never.

 

[Phuel]

The clothes scream 2015 or older..

Which was likely the last time that high fashion still resembled high fashion… And around the time that fashion overall really just veered full speed on the downward spiral that’s become the plague it is today. I know you meant it as a slight-- but it reminding of 2015 is why I’m drawn to the visuals: 2017 was the last time that I purchased a a Prada corduroy trench from that year’s collection. I’ve eyed a Tom Ford coat from 2020, and ended up buying an older Neil Barrett suit instead. I can honestly say that there’s absolutely nothing from any brand that I remotely even desire let alone covet in 2021. 2015 really felt and looked like the end of high fashion days in hindsight. Olivier Theyskens, Sharon Wauchob and Haider Ackermann are still the few untainted talents left of course. But as much as I admire Haider's strict aesthetic his brand of fit is really not me, and I don’t wear women’s clothing, so Olivier’s and Sharon’s shy brilliance are of course greatly admired but aren’t particularly coveted. Makes sense that the last time high fashion was relevant was 2015.

(BTW, the lookbook sort of destroyed the illusion that the video worked so beautifully to create. They should have just shot the lookbook against a white seamless and left it at that.)

 

[Creative]

How crazy is it that a brand like YSL is making tons of money thanks to the vision of a designer that works in another brand? It's really hilarious. Hedi must be so pissed.

I don't even know what Vacarello's own aesthetic looks like. No clue.

This would've been impossible some years ago and even today it sounds so absurd to me. But oh well, fashion is a total joke.

 

[MulletProof]

so Olivier’s and Sharon’s shy brilliance are of course greatly admired but aren’t particularly coveted.

ok, I can't say I feel particularly sad for this! my collection of useless little black dresses by Olivier is on the rise thanks to having no one to compete with lol. I would have zero chances if it was an overhyped designer, or if his clothes were more accessible for all types, I suppose.

I have to say, I wrote 2015 almost randomly , the lookbook in particular just screams 'that dude from instagram circa 2015' to me.. you know, dresses like guys who are not in a band think guys who are in a band dress like. In terms of collections, I can't think of that year through anything in particular.. I was already feeling hopeless in terms of the direction fashion was taking so lots of Uniqlo's U and Margaret Howell felt like a nice and neutral shelter, and they still do!, but now that it's all officially a dumpster with the help of the pandemic, I have felt more motivated to consume fashion for some reason.. but the old kind.. vintage stuff, design that's completely removed from whatever designers are into making these days, and if it's exuberant the right way, even better for me. But yeah, I think it's been many years since I lost faith in events like fashion week to re-fuel my interest in clothes, I still see things I like/want, but I think I've found other outlets that can nurture it just as much and that surprisingly, are not fashion.

 

[Fulton St Critique]

Quite honestly I have never really been keen on SL mens since Hedi’s departure, though this is growing on me. To me the look represents a certain youthfulness representative of dress up and living a life appreciate of historic dress, yet it is more in line with this era’s fascination and obsession with individuality. I question if Vaccarello is tapping into the male bravado of 15th century dress with his pointy shoes, voluminous sleeves, and soft textiles.

Perhaps above all I appreciated the tailoring. The pleat placement in the trousers gives the “skinny” look a little more to work with and I love a few of the jackets strong shoulders. I could do without that rose knit piece and the shorts- the length is just uncanny. Overall a nice, coherent collection. Hedi’s influence was obviously apparent, but when you have HIS ideas to work with I really can’t blame AV for copying, excuse me, referencing his past aesthetic.

Lastly, I was in a SL store a couple of months ago and I was speaking with a sales associate. I noticed a few of the pieces were very much similar to what Hedi had offered back in 2015. I said to her, “Are you continuing to hold some Hedi pieces, I noticed a strong similarity to what is offered currently here?”, and she says very enthusiastically, “Oh yes, this piece (a teddy jacket) and a couple of those trousers still”. I found it interesting how after five years, they were still holding onto these beautifully made garments! I can’t blame them, I continue to watch his mens collections on YouTube to this day.

 

[Frederic01]

Seriously, this screams lack of confidence…
He should have done Chanel jackets for men.
It’s so awkward and badly styled. I know YSL is Celine direct competitor but in menswear, it’s not even a match.
I would never advise to any man to go to YSL under Vaccarello for clothes.

Agreed, the styling is horrendous. Paul Sinclaire is in charge of that here, with all due respect. I prefer the work and vision of Alastair McKimm who did a few of the shows previously. It felt more fresh and less derivative of Slimane's work.

 

[disco54]

It looks very dated to me, too much of Hedi's SL from almost a decade ago. Even Hedi himself has moved on from this severe Goth look. Based of his latest lookbook for Celine, it veers more in the direction of the New Romantics with a Hollister/SoCal vibe. Vaccarello is like the male version of Victoria Beckham but in fairness to her, she is not a trained designer and she is not the creative director at the helm of an iconic fashion house. With such a massive archive, I am stunned Vacarello essentially rehashes Hedi's work season after season, it is Yves Saint Laurent, not Yves Saint Slimane.

 

[Phuel]

ok, I can't say I feel particularly sad for this! my collection of useless little black dresses by Olivier is on the rise thanks to having no one to compete with lol. I would have zero chances if it was an overhyped designer, or if his clothes were more accessible for all types, I suppose.

I have to say, I wrote 2015 almost randomly , the lookbook in particular just screams 'that dude from instagram circa 2015' to me.. you know, dresses like guys who are not in a band think guys who are in a band dress like. In terms of collections, I can't think of that year through anything in particular.. I was already feeling hopeless in terms of the direction fashion was taking so lots of Uniqlo's U and Margaret Howell felt like a nice and neutral shelter, and they still do!, but now that it's all officially a dumpster with the help of the pandemic, I have felt more motivated to consume fashion for some reason.. but the old kind.. vintage stuff, design that's completely removed from whatever designers are into making these days, and if it's exuberant the right way, even better for me. But yeah, I think it's been many years since I lost faith in events like fashion week to re-fuel my interest in clothes, I still see things I like/want, but I think I've found other outlets that can nurture it just as much and that surprisingly, are not fashion.

I just imagined you’d be topless with your cornsilk-spun tresses strategically styled for minimum modesty over your torso, so it’s nice to know you do wear dresses and not just skirts— and from Olivier. (Olivier’s and Sharon’s tops do give that lightness of feeling for those that would prefer the illusion of being topless, don’t they?)

2015 really was this unofficially significant year in the context of fashion. You know, whenever people say that a collection— or just anything in fashion looks dated nowadays, it’s actually a compliment. Seems like your subconscious knew this even if you innocently thought you were quoting some random year… I suspect you’re much more invested in fashion than you might even know or care to admit LOL

Quite honestly I have never really been keen on SL mens since Hedi’s departure, though this is growing on me. To me the look represents a certain youthfulness representative of dress up and living a life appreciate of historic dress, yet it is more in line with this era’s fascination and obsession with individuality. I question if Vaccarello is tapping into the male bravado of 15th century dress with his pointy shoes, voluminous sleeves, and soft textiles.

Perhaps above all I appreciated the tailoring. The pleat placement in the trousers gives the “skinny” look a little more to work with and I love a few of the jackets strong shoulders. I could do without that rose knit piece and the shorts- the length is just uncanny. Overall a nice, coherent collection. Hedi’s influence was obviously apparent, but when you have HIS ideas to work with I really can’t blame AV for copying, excuse me, referencing his past aesthetic.

Lastly, I was in a SL store a couple of months ago and I was speaking with a sales associate. I noticed a few of the pieces were very much similar to what Hedi had offered back in 2015. I said to her, “Are you continuing to hold some Hedi pieces, I noticed a strong similarity to what is offered currently here?”, and she says very enthusiastically, “Oh yes, this piece (a teddy jacket) and a couple of those trousers still”. I found it interesting how after five years, they were still holding onto these beautifully made garments! I can’t blame them, I continue to watch his mens collections on YouTube to this day.

As much as Hedi's SLP and Celine has strayed so much away from his YSL men and Dior Homme for my preference, he still owns an effortless cool that even the most wealthy of conglomerates can’t manufacture :cough:Kim Jones:cough: It really feels like it’s just a matter of time before he’s at Chanel (and create Chanel Men…). It’s quite amazing that no matter how I may feel about his SLP and Celine (and I’ve always liked the branding), the aftermath of his SLP still has a pull in the industry much the same way that his Dior Homme still has over a decade later. He’s absolutely earned his respect.

 

[tricotineacetat]

The thing with a lot of the more flash-y pieces here, like the Orange cape or the platform boots, is that it feels very inauthentic, unlike when Hedi or Rick Owens do those kind of things, which always come from a place of conviction. In menswear, you really need to build up your following, you can't expect men all over the world to wear your runway looks head-to-toe as you'd often see with Rick Owens if the creator does not build up trust over years and years of taking their man on a journey.

Saint Laurent men's is a half-***ed cash cow venture that largely lives of the laurels earned by Hedi and only Hedi. The building blocks of his 'permanent collection' is still very much sold and those pieces are still the ones most in demand. While we know what Vaccarello's vision of a woman is, I don't think the same counts at all for his vision of contemporary menswear - I wouldn't be surprised if they kept some of Hedi's designers as it was clear that Anthony has no previous experience in menswear.

 

[blackcherrified]

I am just glad that someone is making an effort to popularize heels for men. I think this is long overdue…

And I would buy some of these stuff if they go on sale… but Saint Laurent seems to be transiting into a full-price-only model oh well…

 

[tricotineacetat]

I am just glad that someone is making an effort to popularize heels for men. I think this is long overdue…

And I would buy some of these stuff if they go on sale… but Saint Laurent seems to be transiting into a full-price-only model oh well…

Like I said earlier, Hedi Slimane and Rick Owens have been doing heels for men for years now and with more conviction, their cult following have been wearing that for years and for Saint Laurent to show them now, would have never been possible if Hedi didn't push this look years before (although looking very different, his FW'15 collection saw his wildly sought after 'French 85' boots issued for both men and women).

 

[MulletProof]

^ I immediately thought of Fall 2015 when I read blackcherrified's post! these looked amazing (credit where credit's due!), the ones here look like our guy is broke so he had to go through the Jeffrey Campbell leftovers from 2011 at Urban Outfitters..