Saint Laurent Resort 2022 Paris

[Frederic01]

YSL.COM/

 

[THD96]

Elle.com

Stefano Spring 2008 does it better.

 

[yslforever]

With the exception of the white dress, all the collection is unnecessary : it brings nothing new to the brand nor to their clients wardrobes.
I am at lack of words; did they put any effort in this or is this the best they tried ? I do not know which answer is the saddest.

 

[Lola701]

View attachment 1195907
Elle.com

Stefano Spring 2008 does it better.

It’s highly difficult to do better than this collection. Probably one of the best and most inventive RTW collection ever at YSL.

 

[yslforever]

It’s highly difficult to do better than this collection. Probably one of the best and most inventive RTW collection ever at YSL.

Yes I agree on the 2008 Pilati one, I am just very concerned about the Resort 22 and the direction.Do they still make any effort at all ? Have they still some inspiration left ? Or are they now completely dry ?

 

[Fulton St Critique]

@Lola701 Watching his 08 collection brings about a question I think about from time to time— why was he never picked up by Balenciaga? Prior to the Wang experiment, he would have been a phenomenal candidate to further NG’s vision for the house.

 

[THD96]

@Lola701 Watching his 08 collection brings about a question I think about from time to time— why was he never picked up by Balenciaga? Prior to the Wang experiment, he would have been a phenomenal candidate to further NG’s vision for the house.

Since both houses is own by Kering, there is no way he can join Balenciaga after YSL. There are rumors about he is "difficult" to work with and they didn't part away on a good term (but then again who ever leave Kering on good terms. Tom, Stefano, Nicolas, Frida, Hedi, Tomas and Daniel).

Wang got the job after Nicolas, because at the time he is still has potential and Anna recommended him for Pinault.

I think Nicolas's Balenciaga vision should just stop when he left. We saw it with Wang how he tried to mimicked Nicolas and failed miserably, while Demna succes because he introduce new vocabulary into the house. Nicolas tenure was about experimental, he was selling fashion foward that doesn't get define by a certain silhouettes or looks.

Stefano is a talented designer that should create his own vision for the house rather than extended his predecessor works.

 

[Lola701]

@Lola701 Watching his 08 collection brings about a question I think about from time to time— why was he never picked up by Balenciaga? Prior to the Wang experiment, he would have been a phenomenal candidate to further NG’s vision for the house.

@THD96 said it all. It’s true that Stefano had that Balenciaga touch. He was very much interested in textile and shapes…FW2007 could have worked as a Balenciaga collection when we think about it.

But yes, he didn’t left YSL in good terms with Pinault. And him and Nicolas were friends. They often celebrated the end of the collections together and they certainly shared their frustrations at some point. Because the commercial success of both of them ( YSL and Balenciaga became profitable under their tenure) didn’t came with serenity.

I miss Stefano. I really think that he had the potential to give something else after YSL. Sure, after 2009, it went downhill for him in terms of critical success but he is a real complete designer. AGNONA and Zegna were missed opportunities.

Nicolas was luckier because he left Balenciaga while at a creative and commercial peak. And he forged relationships in the Parisian fashion scene…

 

[Fulton St Critique]

Thank you @THD96 and @Lola701 !!! Of course Balenciaga and YSL are owned by the same parent company, though I am unsure that would hinder any eventual hiring of past staff.

That is so interesting that he left on bad terms. I had no idea that he and Pinault struggled in their relationship.

Stefano’s Random Identities label is truly a point of contention for me. SSense.com has good sales on his goods so it is easy to pick up pieces when the price is right. For me, I can appreciate the experimental shape and the gender less appeal that comes with his most recent project, however, the quality is simply not there in terms of fabric. The trims are great, don’t get me wrong, but wherever he is sourcing his fabrication from is a stark contrast to his previous employers threads. Of course there is going to be a difference in terms of price point and funding available, though I would have thought he would have maintained a similar level of overall quality with regard to Random Identities.

 

[vogue28]

VOGUE.COM

 

[vogue28]

VOGUE.COM

 

[vogue28]

VOGUE.COM

 

[jeanclaude]

There are looks which are more akin to "Agent Provocateur" than to YSL...

 

[Fulton St Critique]

Did anyone else read Mark Holgate’s review of the collection? I could barely make it to the end, fashion journalism is truly suffering at the moment.

 

[IloveDiorHomme]

It feels like a Zara editorial/collection, no ?

 

[yslforever]

It feels like a Zara editorial/collection, no ?

I think it could be the contorted poses, they look dated to me.
((if I am off-topic please tell me; some of those poses remind me of posing tricks pro-ana websites started 15/20 years ago, to elongate the limbs and make the bones protude, it's both déjà-vu but still disturbing))

 

[RaisinBoy]

Daniel Lee is going to Saint Laurent. And Anthony Vacarello is doing Zegna Womens and Mens.

 

[lelaid]

Daniel Lee is going to Saint Laurent. And Anthony Vacarello is doing Zegna Womens and Mens.

Highly unlikely. Why would Kering fire him from Bottega only to rehire him at Saint Laurent?

 

[yslforever]

Daniel Lee is going to Saint Laurent. And Anthony Vacarello is doing Zegna Womens and Mens.

Can you share a bit of your sources ? I only know that there is a kind of fatigue at the highest level of Saint Laurent. They want to move to another HQ on the Champs-Elysees, they desperately want to buy back the beauty and fragances from L'Oreal (which has already refused 4 times).
Also Francesca's career is directly linked to Anthony. If Vacarello leave, she might have to go too.

 

[Frederic01]

It's highly unlikely that Vaccarello would do Zegna, considering he is weak at menswear and his forte is womenswear. Zegna may have ambitions of developing womenswear, but at the core it is a menswear brand, and they would naturally chose someone who was really strong at menswear.

Also Saint Laurent is double the size of Bottega Veneta in terms of revenue. Why would Kering appoint someone that effectively generates less profit to a brand that is already doing very well in terms of sales?

If anything it would make more sense for Zegna to hire Daniel Lee.