Saint Laurent Mens S/S 2016 Paris

[donyan]

"Once the revolution is done, if there is no evolution, people get bored."

perfectly said

 

[Creative]

And Gucci will lose it cool factor because they are following Slimane.
Once the revolution is done, if there is no evolution, people get bored.

I do agree that Gucci's hype will last two or three years at best, but I don't think it's because they are following Slimane... It's because people in the fashion industry are waiting for the next big thing faster than ever. There's no pacience anymore. No evolution as you say. A brand does some viral shows, they get every cover and make headlines, then another viral show comes and the cool factor of the other brand is long gone...

 

[gossiping]

but that has lasted longer at this brand. everytime i go to the store, or see in the dept store, its always busy. always. much more than other brands

 

[birdofparadise]

Looks seem to be built around these incredible jackets.

I cannot remember a time ever seeing printed ribbing on anything but perhaps I need to get out more. Some of the detailing present in the promo shots seems rather sophisticated but I blanche at the very thought of the price points. If a simple blazer with a single embroidered poppy detail can command $7,000+ some of those jackets …I can't even type it, it's just not right. You'll be wearing some small country's GDP on your skinny little shoulders while you go out and do what, exactly?

Nice ideas that will trickle down.

 

[gossiping]

they'll probably only put one on sale.

they actually really don't have that many pieces per season i wish they had more. seems focus is on the bags (which i hate) and loooots of shoes

 

[Lola701]

I do agree that Gucci's hype will last two or three years at best, but I don't think it's because they are following Slimane... It's because people in the fashion industry are waiting for the next big thing faster than ever. There's no pacience anymore. No evolution as you say. A brand does some viral shows, they get every cover and make headlines, then another viral show comes and the cool factor of the other brand is long gone...

I agree also but i think Celine, Valentino & Saint Laurent changed something in the system.
For me until 2009/2010, the industry was still a very Tom Ford era-influenced industry. The designer was so powerful that the consumers trusted him. It was all about having a style rather than an aesthetic. Designers were able to do a 180° each seasons and stayed true to themselves.

Phoebe gave people what they wanted but she was smart enough to introduce new ideas with her main collections and capitalize on them with the pre-collections (a bit like Nicolas Ghesquiere did at Balenciaga). Thanks to that, she is not locked in the "minimalist" box (even if she is not a minimalist IMO).

Valentino is all about an endless formula. It's not about proposing new ideas and challenge people in terms of silhouettes, prints, techniques...Etc. It's much about giving the illusion of new.

Hedi took it to another level with vintage clothes and vintage him. Saint Laurent is in a way totally different from what he did at Dior Homme. Dior Homme was about modernity whereas Saint Laurent is about retro.

Hedi, like Nicolas, Phoebe, Tom and Miuccia got a very loyal fanbase and his clothes have this incredible visual power: even without any logos, even a full black outfit is recognizable.

It is a pity that he doesn't try like he used to. For me Designers at this caliber should challenge their customers while doing something familiar.

 

[markese91]

For me the collection felt much like why people criticized his first women's collection; thrift store finds but not even like "thoughtful considered and updated."

I was wondering though, music is such a part of his tenure there and he typically has musicians as models; anyone know whether that's the case this season?

 

[HeatherAnne]

This collection is the exclamation point on the end of the longtime argument that he is a stylist and not a designer.

 

[Zazie]

The set is FANTASTIC, as were the couture jackets, that's it.

Where can I find some background info about the light games for every one of his show?

Can't stand the little bow ties on babydolls...just can't stand it anymore.

 

[Phuel]

^^Absolutely, Zazie!

This collection is the exclamation point on the end of the longtime argument that he is a stylist and not a designer.

His days at Yves Saint Laurent Men and Dior Homme would very much prove otherwise to me.

I'm beyond tired of Hedi's lifting the styles of young musical culture wholesale, at this point. But... is no one else seeing the collateral, including the close-ups that Frida has posted? If nothing else-- and it really is nothing else, I do appreciate all the intricate handwork that goes into some of these pieces; no doubt with exacting couture execution and quality. It is a shame that aside from the impressive handwork, these pieces are just replicas of thriftstore finds. He was so more imaginative and progressive with how inventive he had been with Yves Saint Laurent and Dior Homme. I guess he's a different type of designer now.

I know that kids do love the label's style, so perhaps that's where his attention is directed towards. And tot us. As tired as I am of all these musical... tributes, homages-- rip-offs that's come to define Saint Laurent, I'm wondering why some are so bothered by it? It's become all too predictable now with Hedi's Saint Laurent Paris. I don't think he'll be changing anytime soon. At all.

Thanks Frida for all the pics of the collateral!

 

[gossiping]

Can't stand the little bow ties on babydolls...just can't stand it anymore.

i used to hate them and now i'm obsessed

what he does is what lots of great designers do to me: i hate it for so long, and then after 6 months i am obsessed w it. it keeps fashion new and fresh for me

 

[jescajade]

That was my first thought seeing this collection, Alessandro Michele at Gucci has totally stolen Hedi Slimane's thunder, whether Gucci is following the Saint Laurent model we don't know yet, (hopefully Alessandro Michele is able to progress and diversify his output more).
Have loved Slimane's work in the past at YSL and Dior Homme, and of what he was doing at Saint Laurent but am questioning myself now on the latter, the repetitiveness not only of what comes down the runway but the seeing the same faces on the runway and the campaigns and the music projects etc etc... is quite monotonous. Sure there's some good pieces in the collection, those couture jackets but my excitement has waned. As for those trucker hats, NO thank you!

 

[RedSmokeRise]

For me the collection felt much like why people criticized his first women's collection; thrift store finds but not even like "thoughtful considered and updated."

I was wondering though, music is such a part of his tenure there and he typically has musicians as models; anyone know whether that's the case this season?

Yeah his usual musician-models were there. Julia Cumming, Wyatt & Fletcher Shears, Cole Smith, etc.

I'm still glad he uses Grace Hartzel, she fits the brand better than the musicians imo.

 

[jescajade]

they'll probably only put one on sale.

they actually really don't have that many pieces per season i wish they had more. seems focus is on the bags (which i hate) and loooots of shoes

I thought I was the only one that only hated the bags, they're everywhere!

 

[Marc10]

It's really incredible how watching the show makes the whole difference. The set, the music, the styling, the models... everything just comes together. He's by far the best showman in fashion today. He just knows how to sell his stuff.

 

[dior_couture1245]

You know....at this point I don't even hate the clothes. In fact, there's quite a bit that I could imagine myself wearing. In that respect, I can appreciate - to a certain extent - what Hedi does for Saint Laurent.

My issue really lies with how completely unimaginative the whole package is...the models, the music, styling, etc. Hedi isnt even bothering to recontextualize any of this. At all...and that's where I'm having a sort of tough time with his Saint Laurent. Imagine this collection styled less overtly Kurt Cobain on models that were maybe cleaner cut and a little more "beautiful?" Imagine the runway show being set in a traditional 18éme ciecle Parisian salon or hôtel? Imagine the music a classical composition or a stirring piece from a film score? Contrasts and unexpected combinations or free-associated references always make for a more compelling creative vision. I'm just hypothesizing...

Instead, Hedi is literally carbon-copying from a style that already exists...this is what these rock/surf/punk kids already wear, it's already how they look, it's already the music they listen to...it's all there already. He's just throwing it on a runway and calling it a day.

 

[Street_a_Licious]

i always feel like i'm being shown 'Thriftstore Digest". i mean, what happened between the great first womenswear collection and this???

 

[CholoChic]

Desirable pieces

 

[JeanAvril]

Umm... it's cute.

 

[GIVENCHYlover]

Almost the best mesnwear collection by Hedi