Saint Laurent S/S 2026 Paris | the Fashion Spot

Saint Laurent S/S 2026 Paris

The first looks are extremely excessive and rigid, with chains and more glitter it would seem like a parody made by Jeremy for Moschino.
 
IMO the collection ended up being totally bipolar and not in a thoughtful way…you have at the beginning these very strict leather outfits with this bulky silhouette and all of a sudden you move onto these nylon (?) dresses that frankly look kinda cheap, he was going for Vampire Countess living in some abandoned hôtel but it looks more like the costumes for a low-budget erotic period film.
 
The first looks are extremely excessive and rigid, with chains and more glitter it would seem like a parody made by Jeremy for Moschino.
The first leather + white top part of the collection is in fact literally a rip off from Jeremy's Moschino SS18.
 
Interesting.
The most grandeur and show stopping venue he ever had.

The pattern at Saint Laurent is very clear for couple years now: push basic leather pieces as much as possible. Vaccarello's been pushing leather items in both menswear and womenswear for quite a while now: whether it's a leather jacket, a leather trench coat, or basic merchandise leather gloves or gimmick leather men cuissards. If you notice, it's the only brand featuring a dedicated leather shopping section in their website. Kering management want to capitalize on leather as much as they can: if you like artsy leather you go for Bottega, if you want a basic leather piece you go for YSL. Simple as that.
Another clear selling pattern is the merchandise not so subtle pushing: Vaccarello might hate showing bags on the runway, but damn he loves doing statement jewelry and sunglasses.
The show is basically a grandeur move to sell leather pencil skirts, leather jackets, sunglasses and earrings. Look at the past 4 show from Anthony and you will see the same type of ensemble: a leather piece and statement jewelry.
There's nothing else to say about the collection, it comprises of 4 different looks:
1- Leather pencil skirts paired with white oversized bow top
2- Leather trench coat / jacket
3- Trench coat (silk?)
4- Marie Antoinette inspired ballgown

The lack of "wearable" dresses was disappointing. The shoes design looked very underwhelming too.
By the way, with just this show alone, Paris just obliterated Milan.
 
IMO the collection ended up being totally bipolar and not in a thoughtful way…you have at the beginning these very strict leather outfits with this bulky silhouette and all of a sudden you move onto these nylon (?) dresses that frankly look kinda cheap, he was going for Vampire Countess living in some abandoned hôtel but it looks more like the costumes for a low-budget erotic period film.

For me, the collection staged a clash of characters caught between distorted sexuality and innocence. Some looks evoked men who once (and still) wandered Parisian gardens for discreet encounters — hence the leather, the rigidity of the silhouettes, and a strong Mapplethorpe undercurrent. Then came the bourgeois woman revealed as kinkier than expected, in a leather pencil skirt paired with a blouse. Dominant. In charge.

On the other side stood the faux ingénue, draped in flowy, oversized dresses. I could clearly see the different archetypes Anthony sought to portray, all circling around a common theme.

Usually, the shoes are the highlight, but this season they felt unusually safe. Perhaps AV is slightly irked that Corrado is stealing the spotlight. Still, I enjoyed the show, as I do every season.

Looking forward to the re-see!
 

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