Saint Laurent S/S 2026 Paris

[jeremydante]

Anyone saying this wasn't a good collection doesn't understand Yves Saint Laurent house code.
I loved this collection, and Anthony Vacarrello continues his path of greatness. Excellent.

 

[Alquimista]

I like Anthony but what a bore. Does he even care anymore? And oversize everything? Beyond tired.

Anthony made slick sharp clothes for his own house but at SL he is stuck with this dusty look.

 

[Zorka]

vogue.com

 

[LadyJunon]

I saw some stumble but didn't happen didn't see this

Here you go:

 

[Lola701]

Fantastic presentation!
I like the collection but in a way, it’s very hard to dislike a Saint Laurent by Vaccarello show as it’s always very easy on the eye, easy to understand, perfectly curated and orchestrated. It’s always missing in soul and signature but it’s terribly efficient.

I really loved the opening look and the Night Porter/Beatnick section. The parachute part was interesting because he added a sort of erotism and formality to a kind of technical (but not innovative) fabric. The last part was dramatic even though terribly designed IMO. It was light but too layered in a way.

Something about that last part reminded me of the photos of Guy Bourdin of the women in ball gowns, beyond the obvious references from the archives.

The shoes are good as usual but I loved the sunglasses and the costume jewelry worn with the ball gowns at the end.

It’s almost a pity that this collection will exist mainly on the Redcarpet because those are clothes I wish to see in events. I will definitely pay a visit to the store once it hits the shop floors.

 

[NoInvite]

Lucky him to have access to one of fashion's most diverse archive.

 

[yslforever]

Lucky him to have access to one of fashion's most diverse archive.

but being the least diverse couturier, hardly able to throw some pants.

 

[Alquimista]

Thanks for the photos, Zorka

So dated. This is the wardrobe of an upper class woman from the 80s or idk the 50s if you ignore the style.

 

[blusheels]

I might be biased but to me he's the one creative director who consistently delivers interesting shows and collections (even if some of them are just archives reinvented).

 

[thiago:)]

Trocadéro is a dream... The show was fantastic and I'm grateful for the fashion fantasy. The clothes are nice, in particular the first half. Not blown away but Paris makes everything look more interesting.

 

[WAVES]

I enjoyed most of the leather pieces and the jewellery which were indeed opulent and desirable.
and that was pretty much it.

the flowered logo and location looked incredibly beautiful!

the gowns were hideous!

 

[FashioNarrating]

He somehow manages to do less and less of even remotely new/fresh things, yet the show atmosphere is always giving YSL to a Touche ÉclaT - between the music, the set, the heavy crosses on the girls' ears and the opening juxtaposition of white bow blouses and butch leather jackets tonight felt like despairing Yves publicly mourning Jacques de Bascher in the fall of 1989. That many "raincoats" obviously weren't necessary (except then he would've had to come up with some other looks bcs those made up a third of the collection) and the ruffled parachute gowns were almost camp, and though I'm sure they'll work in editorials as always, one has to ask: how long until Vaccarello changes the formula, or gets replaced?

 

[Monsieur Cristobal]

As usual, a mix.

Good:
- the set, the flowers, the music, the Eiffel tower: wonderful
- the fact that this conveys a strong "Saint-Laurent-vibe", despite all the shortcomings
- the desirability

Bad:
- building a collection around only three or four silhouettes, and maybe less ideas
- the 15 final dresses are supposed to give a couture feeling, but with a similar construction in different colours they look in the end like industrially mass produced.

 

[mteb123]

The repetitiveness is what hinders his collections. There is beauty here even right down to the set design etc but it’s ultimately all stifled by his refusal to come out the box he keeps himself in!! Like others have said how long can he continue giving the same old!! Or is it just a case of riding the wave till they finally let him go?!

 

[tourbillions]

i think they focus on the few products that actually sell and just do some big things for show. just how viktor and rolf do it, sell perfumes and make viral haute couture collections.


Focusing on a few basic products probably bring down their production costs

 

[Salvatore]

He always gives us a show and I love him for that. I just wish the clothes had more to them. They are very nice looks as usual, but the lack of true variation is a bore. I do feel the shows are maybe too perfect and formulaic and wish he'd shock us with something else.

 

[MModa]

IN LOVE. Bravo!

 

[psychopsist]

The first leather + white top part of the collection is in fact literally a rip off from Jeremy's Moschino SS18.

I don’t really see it at a glance … are there certain looks from each you’re comparing?

 

[fruitdots]

I really love this. I love his repetition—call it obstinacy even—because I love to see a designer work through a problem or proposition in a few different ways. It brings to mind Ghesquiere's tendency to repeat looks in different fabrics, or with slight structural differences.

There's also a touch of Lemaire in this collection, I think, which I like because it lets me see the influence of YSL on Lemaire, and that's not a connection I had made prior to this.

 

[alwaysademo]

the last dresses is simply to die for. If you have a place/ occasion to really go out, and you need to go all out and be Seen, like all adventurous ladies do, and can handle your steps without breakin a sweat, Tu m’entends P A R I S de mes rêves, I’d go for the last cranberry number.
love love love it. especially the hideous 1984 gowns du mauvais gout, they separate les vamps vraies des vamps vanilles come ca.
The matte paper material they used is exquisite. Against a hard wind and backlit there's sth magical, fragile, feminine, self destructive. Also that Carlo Mollino caramel 70s palette, even the blue tones are burnt, a staccato rainbow..
Some of my faves walked, didn't even notice them. The whole time I just bobbed along when that song came on during the midsection.
Next to last girl shredding her dress was perfect.
Vacarello has respect for this maison like no other CDs out there. He preserves the aura, so he has mine.

PS: