Saint Laurent F/W 2015.16 Paris

[Inlimbo]

sl*t Laurent

LOOOL this is just BLEAH

 

[Zelda Zonk]

Every seasons it makes me so sad to see what he's doing to the brand... Everything feels so cheap and trashy.

 

[Morphe]

Aaa the scent of 90s teenage desperation.
What a trip back in time *rolls eyes*
His out-of-touch ephebophilia has reared its ugly head once again.

 

[inwhiterooms]

So trashy. I don't like a single thing

 

[Thefrenchy]

I don't think I've ever said that or even felt that way since I started being interested in fashion, but this is the biggest piece of **** of a collection I've ever seen. Until when will we keep pretending that what this guy is doing at YSL isn't just a freaking joke? This is just unbelievable. On top of being a repeat of what he's shown every single season so far, there is something utterly offensive about this masquerade. Where is the creativity in all this? And it's not even desirable. That's truly a shame and associating the brand with this image of a (something I won't mention because it's against our guidelines but I'm sure you'll see what I mean) will cause damage in the long term. I'm sick of it, I'm sick of this so-called vision and I hope he gets replaced soon because this is becoming revolting.

 

[Vitamine W]

I don't think I've ever said that or even felt that way since I started being interested in fashion, but this is the biggest piece of **** of a collection I've ever seen. Until when will we keep pretending that what this guy is doing at YSL isn't just a freaking joke? This is just unbelievable. On top of being a repeat of what he's shown every single season so far, there is something utterly offensive about this masquerade. Where is the creativity in all this? And it's not even desirable. That's truly a shame and associating the brand with this image of a (something I won't mention because it's against our guidelines but I'm sure you'll see what I mean) will cause damage in the long term. I'm sick of it, I'm sick of this so-called vision and I hope he gets replaced soon because this is becoming revolting.

My sentiments exactly.

 

[simple_elegance]

So tacky that it's hilarious.

 

[XxpinktinksxX]

I'm in the minority but I do like quite a lot of the collection . hate the make up!

 

[jeanclaude]

The crack-whorization of Saint Laurent has reached another peak with this new? collection.
This feels like fast food version of high-fashion. It sells like mad, but it tastes like garbage.

 

[fika]

I can't even look any more. Yves must be spinning in his grave

 

[vetements]

I am also in the minority. Takes the clothes individually and you will see that they are very exquisitely made.
The trench coats are one, the colorful fur is another, or even the dress with the veil in front up to the chin.
These are pretty fresh ideas to me.
I can imagine the skimpy dresses becoming an object of attack but even those are not made poorly. I don't think the torn stockings really sell though, they are just there to complete the look.
Problem with sl is that it doesn't come up with completely fresh ideas but rehashing what's on the market and making some elements even better, utmost chic. The type of clothes that real people want, and not everyone is a Celine.
But if this is what sells, why not.

 

[birdofparadise]

Modern Valkyries

As usual, I find myself conflicted and comment though I haven't fully digested what exactly is going on here.

The dressmaking is as problematic as its ever been for a house that built its reputation on both tailleur and flou ...and yet I am a moth to that flame. He is one of the few fashion designers working today (Rick Owens? Kawakubo?) who not only understands what a 'strong woman' could be but crafts a vision that utterly convinces.

The Saint Laurent Woman is sensational, scintillating, sexual, a goddess with no need for the trappings of our 'modern' glamour which aims, ultimately, to pit woman against woman. There is a hard irony here, using the trappings of what some have already derided as 'rock sl*t' to present someone so hard and so dark that she frightens. There's no one to take advantage of here in any way. Her strength is weapons-grade and pity the fool who'd try to test it.

It is this vision that satisfies and makes me feel it isn't really about the clothes for him. They are secondary to his idol worship and make explicit a yearning and a burning that in and of itself is so very YSL.

 

[mistress_f]

who not only understands what a 'strong woman' could be but crafts a vision that utterly convinces.

The Saint Laurent Woman is sensational, scintillating, sexual, a goddess with no need for the trappings of our 'modern' glamour which aims, ultimately, to pit woman against woman. There is a hard irony here, using the trappings of what some have already derided as 'rock sl*t' to present someone so hard and so dark that she frightens. There's no one to take advantage of here in any way. Her strength is weapons-grade and pity the fool who'd try to test it.

so any teenager that goes through a tragic punk phase (and im including myself in there as well) is a strong woman so hard and dark that frightens?

nothing about this mess suggests 'strong woman' to me, mostly cause i can see myself and many others like me who thought ripped tights and leather jackets meant being strong while it was mostly a rebel act in a time of confusion, that of teenage years.

considering that most of his designs seem to be based on a certain 70s groupies aesthetic - maybe not so much in this particular collection, but definitely in the one before this one - 'being taken advantage on' was kinda a structural point in that whole era, so i don't even know.

 

[StoneSkipper]

I was scrolling down the pictures half-expecting Mark and Estel to bust out and break into song for the finale

Honestly, up until about look 28, I was kind of liking it for what it was (except for that zipper cutout leather pant monstrosity), but then the dresses really started kicking in and everything started to go downhill until it all culminated into this pinnacle of stupidity. I rarely use the word "stupid" to describe fashion, but this has got to be one of the stupidest dresses I've ever laid eyes on.

 

[fika]

I am also in the minority. Takes the clothes individually and you will see that they are very exquisitely made.
The trench coats are one, the colorful fur is another, or even the dress with the veil in front up to the chin.
These are pretty fresh ideas to me.
I can imagine the skimpy dresses becoming an object of attack but even those are not made poorly. I don't think the torn stockings really sell though, they are just there to complete the look.
Problem with sl is that it doesn't come up with completely fresh ideas but rehashing what's on the market and making some elements even better, utmost chic. The type of clothes that real people want, and not everyone is a Celine.
But if this is what sells, why not.

I agree with you that the clothes are very well made and that these looks will sell, but what about the clothes do you think is fresh? Not seeing how a trench coat is a fresh idea... Neither the fabric nor the cut scream 'new' to me. Looks like a pretty standard trench coat

This for example http://imgbox.com/fP9x5Nau looks like something 16 year old 'pUnK cHiCk' me might have bought in Camden Market circa 2003

 

[Mody]

I can't believe I'm saying this Maybe because I liked his menswear this season so much so I start to try to see something in his collection? I don't know What I am seeing here is actually potential I find A LOT pieces here and there would fit in general closet With different styling Some pieces may surprise you If Hedi offers this collection under the label of himself He wouldn't face the same amount of criticisms here But for YSL this sl*tty/rock teenage is just not working

 

[squilliam]

It's Betsey johnson plus faux rock sl*t. Some of the looks seem almost diy. Even the quality isn't translating through the pics, it looks oddly made and the leather looks almost fake. Even Kelly Bundy never dressed this bad.
If I wanted to look like a strong sexy rock chick I'd wear vauthier, not this

Kering loves firing designers, fire him..

 

[Lola701]

LOL at some people who said that Tom Ford SS 2015 was tacky and trashy....that double standard.

IMO, This collection is boring. I'm not at all comfortable of his vision of what a woman should look like. A lot of good commercial and easy clothes but also a lot of trashiness.
Hedi's fan will try to make a link with the infamous SS 1971 collection without understanding what YSL was about. I like that argument "if you break the styling, there are some great clothes". You can say that about all the collections...even Rodarte. Saint Laurent is selling because of the cult of Hedi and the power of evocation of the brand, not because of the quality of his work.

I've never been so uncomfortable while looking at a collection. It's a pity to see such a representation of women in a brand known for celebrating women.

 

[VersaceVixen009]

 

[birdofparadise]

so any teenager that goes through a tragic punk phase (and im including myself in there as well) is a strong woman so hard and dark that frightens?

I think the contrast is admirable. Fashion is obsessed with 'a strong woman' who 'loves fashion'; there are enough post show interviews with bleary eyed fatigued designers to support that.

Is this desire trite? The question has been admirably raised at Marc and at Dries but I feel as if Slimane has answered it, mainly because this show isn't seductive in the same way, it's not about a comforting, admirable, safe kind of chic that then gets labeled as strong, eclectic, etc. It's interesting how he's contributing to that conversation.

As I've noted before, I don't really think this show, oddly enough, is about the clothes, the clothes are secondary to the spirit, to the woman, whether they've gone through a tragic punk phase or not. I'd love to hear more of why some are really finding this distasteful, is it the clothes, is it the attitude? What exactly are our expectations of how women should look now? Is this a case of styling with no substance? Is Spirit enough?